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thread-7818
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7818
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TPU Filament in Dremel 3D20?
|
2018-12-29T23:09:59.503
|
# Question
Title: TPU Filament in Dremel 3D20?
I recently got a Dremel 3D20, and I understand it only takes PLA filament according to the Dremel site. However, I was wondering if anyone has successfully used TPU filament or knows it will work fine. I’m more than happy to use other software to change the temperature, I just don’t want to gunk up or otherwise ruin my printer.
# Answer
> 3 votes
TPU wants in general two things of your printer:
* A Printing Temperature of (over many makers) 195-230 °C
* A Direct Drive (extruder on the printhead)
> Bowden extruders are not ideal for printing flexible filaments such as NinjaFlex due to the excessive distance between the stepper motor and the extruder head. However, some users have generated successful prints using reduced speeds.<sup>ninjaflex handout</sup>
Check the temperature you can reach, and you are lucky, as some of the smaller Dremels use Bowden but the 3d20 is apparently direct drive.
If you want to try to run a Bowden with flexible filaments, dial down speed down really low (20-30 mm/s at most) and pray.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I've never used a Dremel printer, thus I cannot guarantee that my solution will work fine, but you might want to give a try to the Ultimaker Cura slicer.
Ultimaker printers have Bowden tubes, like the Dremel, unless I am mistaken, and I've been able to successfully print TPU on my Ultimaker 3 Extended printer. I also know that many Ultimaker users have printed using Ninjaflex without much problems on their Ultimaker machines, both old and new.
Ultimaker Cura comes with pre-programmed settings for TPU95, which is the Ultimaker brand of TPU, then I guess you'll have to fiddle a bit with settings to find what works best with your Dremel. Take a look around Ultimaker's forums, many users have other printers beyond their Ultimaker printers, you might be lucky and find some useful information. The 'search' feature of the forum works quite nicely.
Quick summary of the settings for TPU95A in Ultimaker Cura for a 2.85 mm Bowden setup:
* Layer Height: 0.2mm
* Printing Temperature: 225°C
* Print Speed: 25 mm/s
* Cooling Fan Speed: 20%
Depending on how the Dremel performs and the quality of your TPU, you might want to disable retractions, it's been known to help.
---
Tags: tpu
---
|
thread-5686
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5686
|
Extruder clicking Tronxy x5s
|
2018-03-24T18:32:22.860
|
# Question
Title: Extruder clicking Tronxy x5s
Whenever it start printing the extruder starts clicking, I tried adjusting the voltage with no luck, it's still clicking. And it doesn't extrude a lot of plastic sometimes it even stops extruding but the extruder is still turning. Can someone help?
# Answer
> 7 votes
The clicking you are hearing is either the stepper motor skipping steps or the hobbed gear losing grip on the filament.
Either way, it means that the filament opposes an unusually high resistence to be pushed forward.
A key information to be able to diagnose your problem is whether the clicking is on the firsts couple of layers or throughout the print.
**If it is only for the first 1-3 layers the problem is likely to be the printing bed too high** (or deformed), so that the nozzle touches it and the bed acts a "lid" on the nozzle preventing the molten plastic to get out. If this is the case, adjust the printing bed to be flat and level (and the nozzle at the right height when homed on the Z axis.
**If the problem persists throughout the full print** the problem is likely to be related to one of the following:
* **the extruder not managing to get a firm grip** on the filament (worn teeth, slack spring, ...)
* **the stepper motor being underpowered** (this seems not to be your case, given that you have already adjusted the voltage)
* **a clog, adhesion, or restriction in either the bowden tube or the extruder**, for which the best solution is disassemble, inspect and clean (eventually changing the bowden tube if it has been deformed).
# Answer
> 2 votes
I have the TronXY X1, which uses the same extruder and firmware design as the TronXY X5. The clicking does not come from Voltage, but most likely a wrong set up of steps/mm or a lightly clogged nozzle.
# Quick and dirty steps/mm
* Start a print that you know clicks.
* wait for the clicking starts (it comes from the extruder pushing against resistance and jumping back a step)
* Go into `Configuration > Extruder > Steps/MM`
* alter it down a little, listen if the constant clickig stops, alter again if needed.
Now, you need to make sure not to get into underextrusion doing this "on the go" fixing, and you really should calibrate your extruder.
# Proper calibration
To calibrate your extruder, you could follow Thomas "Tom" Sanladerer calibration video or this rundown:
* Move the printhead to a position where it can extrude freely.
* heat up your hotend
* load the filament (or have one loaded)
* take a filament spool and make small marks on it an increment from the extruder's intake - for example with a CD marker. Tom uses 100mm (**Ep** for Extruded planned) for the calibration and adds 50mm to compensate for overextrusion, so places the mark at 150mm (**L** for length), allowing to calculate a compensation into both directions.
* extrude 100mm of filament - it is advisable to directly send the G-code via a program here to use `G92E0` to 0 the extruder and `G1E100F90` for the extrusion
* Measure the distance of your line to the extruder. Let's call this value **R**, for "Result position"
* Now, we calculate Et (extruded truely): **L-R=Et**
Now, we have a length to compensate for. But what value we adjust? Steps/mm of course!
* Either go into `Configuration > Extruder > Steps/MM` or send `M503` to get the steps/mm from the configuration
* lets call this value **S** for Steps/mm
Now, let's calculate the Sa, "Steps/mm adjusted": * **S\*Ep/Et=Sa**
Now, let's get it into the machine! * Go into `Configuration > Extruder > Steps/MM` and adjust manually * make sure to save into EEPROM * alternatively, send `M92E`**Sa** , replacing Sa with your calculated value * Then, send `M500` to store the value in the EEPROM * third alternative: change the firmware configuration and reupload.
# Answer
> 2 votes
I also have this problem with the X5S, and it's not just on the first layer (which is sometimes finicky depending on the levelling). I've narrowed it down to a few things, and I've also noticed that it varies based on the print.
Possible Causes (and a suggested solution for each):
* Bad quality hotend assembly: My X5S has a teflon-lined hotend, and besides that I don't like the rather small heatsink, mine came such that the bowden tube acts as the teflon lining, ie the lining and the bowden tube are the same piece. Already not a great design, but the implementation is slightly worrying. I'd recommend switching the hotend for a genuine E3D, I myself am planning on getting a Cyclops+ Aqua, which will be sure to resolve any existing issues.
* Bowden tube is iffy: I'm not sure about this one, but I've noticed quite a bit of resistance in the bowden tube while loading filaments. I think this is causing excessive force on the Extruder motor (which I've noticed heats up quite a bit more than the other motors, to the point where I've added a heatsink to avoid possible damage). My solution is to swap the teflon for the blue Capricorn tubing from Trianglelabs.
* Extruder setup isn't that great: As I mentioned before, the extruder motor tends to heat up a bit, and I just don't like the implementation of the extruder gears. I'd recommend switching this setup for a different one, if possible.
* Print temperature and speed: I've noted that when I increase the temperature and decrease the speed of prints, the clicking reduces in frequency, but it does still occasionally click and my prints turn out horribly. This might be pointing to an issue with either extruder calibration or the flow rate during a print, as mentioned by other people here.
Cheers!
# Answer
> 0 votes
I have an X5S and quite frankly, I never got it print properly because of these persistent issues. Thank you for the most excellent comments and suggestions. Lots to investigate.
I added an anycubic glass table but that takes longer to heat up. But i am unable to get adhesion on the first layers and the clicking kicks in shortly thereafter. I wonder if this thermal latency might imply a colder bed on first layers. I have tweaked the leveling so many times it is not funny. This is pointing to friction in the Bowden delivery system and the extruder itself.
I got an E3D that I must adapt. Too bad i cannot print those parts!
I have noted also a great variety of results from different printer filaments brands as well.
---
Tags: extruder, tronxy-x5
---
|
thread-7835
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7835
|
I want to print an image of a network in 3D — what's the best way to convert it?
|
2018-12-31T18:52:53.760
|
# Question
Title: I want to print an image of a network in 3D — what's the best way to convert it?
Suppose I have an image like this below that I want to print in 3D. What would be the best format to convert it in?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Unfortunately, with only a .PNG or other file format that is traditionally two dimensional, you are missing some critical information. Unless your objective is to print something "flat with thickness," you can't create a 3D model. If your objective is to print something flat with thickness, even a program such as Inkscape with the Path to OpenSCAD extension will accomplish your goal.
I believe that Tinkercad will import images and allow you to extrude them to create the thickness aspect. Another program which supports such activity is Fusion360 (free for hobbyists) which would convert your drawing to a sketch. You'd have to add some width to the lines in order to extrude them in any program you select. It will also be necessary to trace the drawing to convert it to a vector file type. Inkscape excels in this task.
Lastly, you can arbitrarily add a third dimension to the diagram by importing it with SolveSpace. It is another free program which allows one to import a DXF file. Note that DXF is a vector file not raster, excluding your existing PNG format. It might be easier to use Inkscape to create the vector file, add width to the lines, then save it in DXF form and load it to SolveSpace. At that point, it becomes extremely challenging due to the complexity of the drawing.
Perhaps a hint or two (image, sketch, drawing) of your final objective?
---
Tags: 3d-models, 2d
---
|
thread-7839
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7839
|
Sandable primer suitable for PLA?
|
2018-12-31T23:30:24.843
|
# Question
Title: Sandable primer suitable for PLA?
What kind of primer should I be using for my PLA prints?
I want to be able to sand the object after applying the primer for a smooth finish before painting.
Would something like this work?
https://www.bunnings.com.au/dulux-duramax-325g-plastic-primer-spray-paint\_p1400720
# Answer
> 6 votes
There are generally 2 types of operation you might want to do before priming your object:
* smoothing to a point that you are comfy with and
* roughing pass with very fine grit to give the primer something to stick to
# Smoothing via Sanding & Filler
To smooth your object you generally have two options:
* Only sand down (and possibly vapor-smooth) and account for the lost size in the design phase.
+ Vapor-smoothing can flatten away surface details you might want to preserve, so it might not be an option at all.
+ While vapor smoothing is possible with more than just Acetone on ABS, the price tag for those chemicals is usually more expensive by a factor of 20 or more due to the fact that Acetone is pretty much dirt cheap as far as chemicals go - and easily accessible via home depot.
* Fill up with body filler in areas you want and sand smooth afterward.
+ This is very labor intensive, especially for complex shapes.
Only after you filled up the structure to be somewhat smooth you apply paint primer. In itself, common spray on primers often are not *filling* enough to hide away the printing layers.
For rough surfaces that need a starting fill, a paste body filler applied with a spatula works best, and for the last pass over a just lightly scratched surface, automotive body filler from a spray can works great. The benefit of spray-can body filler is, that it also acts as a first roughing step, so you don't need to roughen the surface for the primer. If you grab a filler-primer, even skip the primer.
### Sidenote from experience:
Some filler-primer and lacquer spray cans seem to contain solvents that are able to soften PLA.
# Smoothing via Coating
A random find on Thingiverse showed me another way to paint and flatten the surface faster and without sanding, at the cost of details getting smoothed away:
* Apply a thin paint coat.
* Apply a thin coat of a fast drying, transparent Polyurethane coating onto the **wet** paint.
* Let the combined layers dry with extra air flow to prevent noses.
* Repeat as needed.
It works by picking up the wet paint and embedding it into the thicker Polyurethane layer, which dries much smoother than the paint itself, filling up the imperfections and the steps between layers. This process will however also fill up non-masked surface details you might want to preserve.
# Your product in mind
The primer you took a look at works on PLA, but it would not smooth out all the dimples. It might work nicely for the PU-Buildup variant.
---
Tags: pla, post-processing, smoothing
---
|
thread-7847
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7847
|
Marlin 1.1.x on Ender 3 changing PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED has no effect?
|
2019-01-02T05:34:23.417
|
# Question
Title: Marlin 1.1.x on Ender 3 changing PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED has no effect?
I dont want the part cooling fan on during preheat, especially when I'm only heating the bed, it is just unnecessarily loud and serves no purpose at that time.
However when I set `PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED` to 0 it has no effect, the fan still spins at full speed as soon as I preheat either the hotend or the bed.
So why is this setting not working and how do I fix this?
I am using the latest version of Marlin.
The only one that is defined is the one that I am editing and it is the one that appears on line ~1260 of the stock configuration.h
```
#define PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255
```
And this is the grep result of searching the entire firmware folder:
# Answer
Apparently, I forgot a critical step:
While I have completely reconfigured the LCD menus, setup custom 25-point mesh leveling, changed a bunch of other numerical values, and flashed the firmware dozens of times, certain values will never be updated unless you remember to **initialize the EEPROM** after the flash!
Honestly I kinda wish they would make it all or nothing but I guess there is limited space so particular things take priority.
> 2 votes
# Answer
*This answer is now obsolete now that the OP has updated the question with additional information. It is left here as a possible solution for those who have tinkered with there firmware.*
---
Part cooling fan speed during preheat (from menu) is controlled by the setting
```
#define PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255
```
in Configuration.h where a value of `0` implies no rotation, or 0 % and `255` implies 100 %.
If changing this value in your configuration does not result in a reduced fan speed, you could have this constant be defined somewhere else overriding this value.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: marlin, firmware, creality-ender-3
---
|
thread-7855
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7855
|
Can I 3D-print a PET bottle?
|
2019-01-02T16:02:21.283
|
# Question
Title: Can I 3D-print a PET bottle?
I want to print a transparent PET bottle for my homemade lemonades and thought about 3D-printing them.
I would like the printed bottle's quality to be as fine as a Coca-Cola PET bottle for coke and the printing substrate or material be something that's cheap or readily available. I thought I might recycle some old PET bottles to print the custom one for my lemonades as I don't want something that would require me buying new materials or re-exporting from the manufacturer.
Is it possible to recycle PET and print it into food-certified containers?
# Answer
> 26 votes
# No, due to 3 reasons
## PET is not (easily) printable.
There is a lot of confusion on what Filaments you can buy: **most times filament branded PET is actually PETG, sometimes PETT.**
PET is not an easily printable material at all. With expert knowledge and the right machine settings it *can* be printed, but even then, it is not as easily recyclable into a useable 3D-printer-filament as you might think. You need full reprocessing capabilities, which means the need for machinery to allow thorough cleaning, grinding to dust, melting it up, pelletizing and finally extrusion as a fresh filament.
The closest related material that is easily printable is PET**G**, a modified PET that also contains glycol. You can't convert PET into PETG with home or hobbyist applications at all - they are totally different in their chemical behavior, even as just one material was added in production. PETG is not brittle like PET, it does not haze on heating, but it ages in UV light, scratches easily and can't be autoclaved like PET. But the chemical modification has to be done during the initial manufacturing of the material, and it is a huge mess to try to recycle the two together, which can and will happen if you try to work with material you source from recycling.
> “When they’re processed together, PETG melts and becomes sticky while PET remains solid. PETG sticks to PET chips and forms large clumps that pose processing problems.” <sup>Resource Recycling (magazine/blog)</sup>
## 3D printed objects are very unlikely to become food certified.
You can't easily manufacture (certified) food-rated printed products, like food containers due to the requirements that a machine that manufactures food-certified products needs to comply to. I advise looking at this answer regarding food rating for more elaboration.
## It is hard to print really transparent with FDM.
Due to the method how FDM works - extruding lines next to each other - it is often impossible to print fully transparent objects right of the bat - there is *almost always* air inside a printed object, and there are so many boundaries between the extrusion paths that refract and change the photon paths that the best one can achieve somewhat easily is translucent (=semi-transparent). Read this answer for further information.
But if you manage to get the object really solid, you might get some near-transparent, icy results from some orientations while looking in others still will look matte.
To get them fully transparent you **then** will have to post-process them to become fully transparent by grinding the surface up to 4000 grit, but that is very labor intensive and most likely not possible for the inside of a bottle. To be clear, you spend hours polishing one surface.
# Could it be economic in the slightest?
On a side tangent, the viability of printing a bottle via buying new ones will need to be expored. *Shapped* PET Bottles with caps start at \\$0.01 per piece and top out at \\$1 per piece - you get the better prices if you order in larger quantities. You will have to compete with getting under \\$1 per bottle, or rather with what the price of a typical bottle you want is.<sup>alibaba.com</sup>
A typical PET bottle ordered from China weighs 30 g for a 300 ml bottle, and the particular example I looked at comes \\$0.22 to \\$0.28, depending on the bottle cap, with a minimum order of one parcel with something around 300 items. That seems to be in the average range.
A roll of 1 kg of PET(G?) filament starts at ~\\$30 at the moment. That is the weight of 33 shaped bottles per roll. Your print will most likely be heavier than the blown up bottle to get it watertight, but let's just assume you might manage the same weight. Then it's about \\$0.90 in the material alone - so we are at more than 300% of a bought product with cap already!
Atop that comes the running cost of the printer, which depends on your print time, printer and electricity price. I know my hobbyist machine comes, maintenance and electricity combined, down to 0.21€/h, so roughly \\$0.25. Printing a bottle will take *several* hours.
PET preforms that can be blown up to almost *any* bottle shape, type and size and ship much cheaper come to prices due to better density. Which means you compete against \\$0.015 to \0.15 per bottle in material costs.
### Conclusion
It is not economically viable to even attempt to print bottles beyond a prototyping stage.
---
Tags: print-quality, print-material, pet
---
|
thread-5952
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5952
|
Software for adding supports to 3D printed miniatures in STL file
|
2018-05-10T08:08:03.047
|
# Question
Title: Software for adding supports to 3D printed miniatures in STL file
My main application for my 3D printer (Zortrax M200 Plus) is making 28 mm scale miniatures for role-playing games. Basically people and animals at 1:60 scale, which means that things like arms, legs, or weapons are only a few millimeters thick. If I use the automatically generated supports of the Z-Suite software, the supports end up being thicker than the model parts, and are impossible to remove.
I had a bit more luck creating support structures with Meshmixer, but am not totally happy with those. So I am looking for other software to edit .STL files to add supports automatically, preferably with an option to edit those support structures easily afterwards. Any ideas?
Note that Zortrax printers only work with proprietary Z-Suite software, so the software that adds the support also needs to be able to export the model with the supports into an STL file, not just gcode.
# Answer
I see that you've already tried Meshmixer and didn't find it helpful, but I wanted to call out an article and accompanying video that I recently found which helped me understand Meshmixer's support generation feature a bit better. It isn't magic, but it is pretty flexible and you can customize them. Plus, you can export them either as a separate file (to be imported via Slic3r's Load Part for example), or as part of the primary object STL file (though you loose the ability to set different print settings for the supports). Much of my printer's time is also devoted to 28mm figurines and I've had varied success with them. There are some models whose detail is too fine and which require too much support to be worth it considering the cleanup - I have a bucket-of-shame that's full of them. I just ordered an upgrade for my printer to allow me to print with multiple filament and I'll be seeing if soluble support material is helpful for those small details. Barring that, I've found that some prints do better with Meshmixer's supports while others do better with simplify3d supports, while others still do better with slic3r supports.
Summarizing the article on custom Meshmixer supports:
> 1. Open your model in Meshmixer
> 2. From the top menu select View – Show Printer Bed
> 3. Select Edit – Transform and move the model to the middle of the print bed
> * This step is important because Meshmixer won’t generate any supports outside of the print area
> 4. If you want to print the model on a different scale, scale the model now, again by using the Edit – Transform. It’s better to scale the model now, because an additional change of scale later in slicer would also affect the generated supports, resulting in either too thin and weak supports or too thick and hard to remove supports.
> * Change the Scale X (Scale Y and Scale Z) to the desired value (1 = 100%, 1.5 = 150% etc.)
> 5. Select Analysis – Overhangs
> * You can now adjust the Angle Thresh and see a live preview of areas of the model that should be supported
> 6. Click on Generate Support to see a preview of the support structure
> * Every time you make changes to the support settings you’ll have to click on Remove Support and Generate Support to refresh the view
(The video in the article goes into greater detail on the settings available in step 6.)
> 7. Adding and removing supports manually
> * You can create a new support by left-clicking and dragging from an overhang to the ground or from an existing support to the ground
> * Hold down the Shift key to ignore intersections of the support strut or any other warning and force Meshmixer to generate the new support (use wisely)
> * You can also click on an existing support to generate a new strut going down to the build plate
> * CTRL + Left click on an existing support to remove it
> 8. When you’re happy with the support structure you can export the model and the support structure together as STL by simply clicking Done and clicking on the Export button in the left menu
> 9. Alternatively, you can select Convert to Solid to create a separate mesh from the support structure. This will let you set different settings in Slic3r for the supports and for the model itself
> 1. After choosing Convert to Solid choose Edit – Separate shells
> 2. Export both the model and the supports as individual STL files
> 3. In Slic3r first load the STL with the model
> 4. Double-click on the model and choose Load part…, select the supports STL file
> 5. When the STL loads, you can overwrite some of the settings by clicking on the green plus icon
> 1 votes
# Answer
I don't think you'll find automated software to create supports "the way I want them to look." So...
It might be worth investigating the "Advanced Properties" of Cura to see how thin, and thinly spaced, you can set its support walls to be. I know there are settings for reducing the thickness at the top of the support, as well as some sort of "top gap" setting, for just the kind of problem you're dealing with.
> 1 votes
# Answer
If you're looking for an extremely powerful software with manual supports, I would recommend getting Simplify 3D. Simplify 3D allows you to manually add and edit support material in the slicer. The only drawback is that it cost 150 USD, but it will do what you need done.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I had good experience with the support interfaces from CURA. But reduce the thickness of the support interface to be just enough, that a smooth support interface top can be printed and set the top distance so that the model itself can be printed smooth and you can remove the interface easy enough. (I got good results with a thickness of 2-4 layers and a distance of 1-2 layers. Important: the real filament thickness should be set in CURA very precisely, else it could lead to hard to remove interface or a not smooth bottom of the model.
> 0 votes
# Answer
Materialise Magics (STL fixer) is what I have heard works very well. In the process now of trying to get the boss to buy a seat for use with models being made on a Carbon DLS printer.
http://www.materialise.com/en/software/magics
(keep me posted with what you find out. I am currently in the same boat and exploring options while minimizing cost but also want good software and am willing to pay. makes sense, I know)
Edit - Netfabb has free software available.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: software, support-structures
---
|
thread-7860
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7860
|
How can I decrease the thickness of a wall in an STL file?
|
2019-01-03T02:56:50.250
|
# Question
Title: How can I decrease the thickness of a wall in an STL file?
There seem to be a lot of search results answering the question of how to increase wall thickness, but how can I decrease wall thickness? I have an STL model of a mechanical keyboard key where the outside dimensions are correct, but the walls are slightly too thick so the key gets stuck in the down position. I'd like to shave some of the thickness off of the inside of the walls to better match the original key I'm replacing, while leaving the rest of the model dimensions as-is. How can I go about doing this? I consider myself technical in general, though I'm a novice at 3d modeling software.
# Answer
The process is rather simple:
* import your model into either a modeling software (e.g. Blender et al.) or a CAD-program (e.g. fusion360, Design Spark Mechanical et al.) that can import and export STL.
+ if needed, convert the STL into a useable model with your chosen program's functions or switch to edit mode.
* select inner walls and extrude them the desired amount.
* export as STL again.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: 3d-models, stl
---
|
thread-3587
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3587
|
Is Tetrahydrofuran viable for dissolving PLA and sticking PLA objects together?
|
2017-02-14T00:04:24.520
|
# Question
Title: Is Tetrahydrofuran viable for dissolving PLA and sticking PLA objects together?
According to Wikipedia, Tetrahydrofuran dissolves PLA. It also apparently dissolves PET.
> THF is considered a relatively nontoxic solvent, with the median lethal dose (LD<sub>50</sub>) comparable to that for acetone.
Wikipedia further states that it's not particularly dangerous provided you keep it away from air circulation, so that it does not form peroxides.
> One danger posed by THF follows from its tendency to form highly explosive peroxides on storage in air.
So well, this seems acceptable compared to other possible solvents which are all ridiculously dangerous. The question at hand is now of practical nature:
* Is Tetrahudrofuran actually viable replacement for acetone, which only works with ABS?
I am asking because the fact that it does dissolve PLA does not really at all mean that it will work well. It could damage PLA structure, be more toxic than wikipedia says or not dry well.
# Answer
> 4 votes
According to Shuichi Sato, Daiki Gondo, Takayuki Wada, Shinji Kanehashi & Kazukiyo Nagai: *Effects of various liquid organic solvents on solvent‐induced crystallization of amorphous poly(lactic acid) film* in *Journal of Applied Polymer Science*, Volume 129 Issue 3 (2013), p1607-1617<sup>source</sup>, Tetrahydrofuran is classified as a solvent for PLA. The specific entry on page 1608:
```
Group Solvent Solvent type dd dp dh dt Result
Ether Tetrahydrofuran Polar aprotic 16.8 5.7 8 19.4 soluble
```
The values dd dp dh and dt are explained on page 1607:
> The effects of 60 liquid organic solvents on PLA are systematically investigated using the Hansen solubility parameter (HSP). The HSP is one of the digitizing methods for analyzing the interaction between polymer materials and organic solvents. In HSP analysis, all solvents have three parameters: energy from dispersion bonds between molecules (dd), dipolar intermolecular force between molecules (dp), and the hydrogen bonds between molecules (dh). All solvents were characterized by a point in a three-dimensional structure at which dd, dp, and dh are plotted on three mutually perpendicular axes. Generally, if the HSP values of the various organic solvents are near that of the given polymer, the solvent is considered compatible with the polymer material.
The factor dt is the total Hansen solubility parameter - the bigger this is, the better it is a solvent.
19.4 is a rather good solvent but **extremely explosive**: in air 20000 ppm (2%) are explosive and thus the allowable concentration in an area is 2000 ppm<sup>source</sup>
# Alternatives
A similar potent solvent would be Benzene (dt = 18.6) which more easily available and less explosive, but more deadly (10000-20000 ppm fumes) and has an allowable concentration of 500 ppm<sup>source</sup>
Ethyl-acetate is also a solvent (dt = 18.2) and more available. It is explosive at an equal concentration as Tetrahydrofuran<sup>source</sup>, but it has just about half of its vapor pressure (73 mmHg<sup>source</sup> vs. 132 mmHg<sup>source</sup>), so can be stored more safely, and is less aggressive on the body. It is sometimes used to Smooth PLA via vapor chamber<sup>source</sup>, and only comes at a price tag of ca. 90 €/l for the pure stuff and also is used in some nail polish removers, put into a safe mix.
Acetone is classified as a *better* solvent (dt = 20.1), and it is known to act as a glue and to soften PLA with some exposure time, but from experience, it can't smooth it. It is available most easy (nail polish remover and in the home depot), and is the least deadly option.
Propylene-1,2-carbonate is classed as solvent and a far better at it with dt = 27.2. It has been used as an alternative to Ethyl-Acetate<sup>source</sup> and its MSDS is rather gentle<sup>source</sup>. It comes at a price tag of 130 €/l for the chemical-grade liquid.
# Conclusion
Tetrahydrofuran is not a viable replacement due to its explosive properties. It is not an improvement above Benzene, which at least can be stored safely.
Using Acetone as a benchmark, Tetrahydrofuran should not smooth the surface in a vapor chamber, as it is a worse solvent than Acetone. It should also take **longer** to soften and dissolve objects than Acetone, but a heated bath or coating the surface with it could help to generate the needed exposure times.
However, its comparable ethyl-acetate has been claimed to be used as a cleaning, vapor smoothing, and brush on surface smoothing agent successfully and can be used better by helping the solubility via heating, which can be done much safer with ethyl-acetate than THF. In a proper chemical mix, its storage problem can be solved too.
A better alternative is propylene-1,2-carbonate, which is a better solvent, and much less dangerous.
**tl;dr**: No, Tetrahydrofuran is not able to dissolve PLA in a reasonable time<sup>1</sup> without heat activation and it has worse characteristics than Acetone. It could arguably be used to weld parts, but Dichloromethane would be more effective.
---
<sup>1 - Sato, Gondo et al. in the aforementioned paper: *Solubility tests were performed for 24 h at 35+-1 °C.* which means we have a prolonged exposure of a thin film to a huge amount of solvent. how thin a film? **Very** thin: *The PLA films were prepared by casting 2 wt % dichloromethane solution onto a flat-bottomed glass Petri dish in a glass bell-type vessel and by drying under atmospheric pressure at room temperature. Each solvent was allowed to evaporate for 48 h. The dried PLA films were then thermally treated under a vacuum for 48 h at 70 °C to eliminate the residual solvent and to obtain amorphous PLA films. Afterwards, the thermally treated PLA films were cooled at room temperature under atmospheric pressure.*</sup>
# Answer
> -1 votes
From what I have read, THF is not super effective, it seems that Dichloromethane or DCM is actually a better solvent. Unfortunately I have no personal experience with either.
It is rather nasty though, as the LD<sub>50</sub> is just 0.5 to 5 g/kg<sup>\[1\]\[2\]</sup>.
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Tags: pla, safety, post-processing
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thread-1582
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1582
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Is using a hair dryer on my M3D build plate safe?
|
2016-08-02T18:15:54.343
|
# Question
Title: Is using a hair dryer on my M3D build plate safe?
I often have trouble with prints being especially difficult to remove from the build plate on my Micro3D printer. My wife suggested using a hair dryer on the underside of the plate. I was initially appalled at the idea, but now I think she may be on to something. Is this safe? Good idea? Bad idea? Heresay?
# Answer
> 6 votes
Typically, people *cool down* their build plates to get parts to release, rather than heat them up. That said, I doubt a hair drier will get hot enough to do any damage to the build plate. You could try it with no harm done.
# Answer
> 3 votes
That was a problem for me too. My M3d printer was getting stuck to the plate. However, I now print on painters tape, and I put down painters take on the bed. Then I glue stick the tape, and when I am done, I just pull it up.
You should try it, because it will allow you to print with other then the m3d plastic.
# Answer
> 3 votes
It's what i do. Painters tape. are you using the m3d plastic? that's why. the coating is to make sure it sticks their only plan to get it off is to bend the plate a little bit. Hair drier won't end the world. don't hold the plate and hair dry it, that might hurt. But M3D sells spare plates it you destroy it. Try it out, tell us what happens.
# Answer
> 3 votes
I agree to Tom's first part of the answer, usually you'd cool down the plate to loosen the print. This is reasoned by the shrinkage of the builplate while the print stays extended. The strain put into the interface helps to get the print of. Warming the plate could essentially do the same, but since you deposit a warm filament, one would assume that by warming up you will reduce the strain that has been built up by the regular cooling of the filament already.
I guess an uneven heating with a hairdryer will probably introduce uneven strain or evan some kind of warping of the buildplate that puts more strain to the interface which makes your approach work. If you want to test whether you have some local deformation you could characterize this by reflecting a laserpointer from the heatbed and marking the reflection on a rather far away wall for some controlled positions you can get the laser in (by say putting it on a photography tripod). The change of this reflections towards each other could tell you about the deformation.
I also agree that most of the hairdryers around would not be hot enough to be a worry, but since most of the Micro3D is made from plastic I would put twice the time into figuring out if that is really true.
Just for the fun of it, you could put an ice cube next to your finished print if you make sure that molten water will not go anywhere it is not supposed to be. Maybe this lifts off the print as well. However, I do not recommend doing this, of course.
# Answer
> 3 votes
Before I got an aftermarket heated print bed for my M3D, I regularly used a hair dryer to pre-heat the build plate up to 60-70 °C before printing with no ill effects.
# Answer
> 1 votes
cold wind can help to acceleratory cool down and dry the build plates to make it easy to part them.
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Tags: build-plate
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thread-7581
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7581
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Speed issue with Slic3r and Marlin
|
2018-12-05T16:13:32.183
|
# Question
Title: Speed issue with Slic3r and Marlin
I am trying to print with clay.
These are my Slic3r speed settings,
Other information;
* Nozzle: 1.4 mm
* First layer height: 0.9 mm
* layer height: 1 mm
* Filament dia: 1.8 mm
* perimeter: 3
When I print, the first layer is printed faster than remaining layers and in the remaining layers, the two inner perimeters are printed much slower than the outer perimeter.
Isn't this strange since I give the same print speed for all?
# Answer
No, you did not set all the settings to the same speed, there are 2 different print speeds defined:
* Infill Solid: **60** mm/s
* First Layer Speed: **30%**
This means, that some walls will be printed 10 mm/s faster than the others, and that *first layer* should be printed at 30% of 50 mm/s, so at 15 mm/s - try to define it as a speed. Make sure to save and apply the settings and only *then* slice your model, as you might have sliced the model with the previous settings.
> 1 votes
# Answer
Make sure that on the Print Settings tab, under Advanced, you have set the Extrusion widths for your custom nozzle settings.
> 0 votes
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Tags: marlin, slic3r
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thread-7877
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7877
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How to build a CT scan into a printable 3D model?
|
2019-01-05T14:49:14.120
|
# Question
Title: How to build a CT scan into a printable 3D model?
I have a set of 2D pictures from a CT scan.
How can I convert them into a 3D model for 3D printing? An example looks like this:
# Answer
Using the terms "convert CT scan to 3D model," I found a number of links of tutorials. One of them is described as free, with registration and appears to be web based. The link, Embodi3D, appears to have a relatively comprehensive set of instructions to accomplish your goal.
Instructables also has a similar tutorial. Should neither of these prove suitable, the search terms above may be of value.
Image below via Instructables:
> 4 votes
# Answer
Knowing the layer thickness, you can **manually** re-engineer/design the object:
* take your CAD or 3D modeling program of choice
1. import one picture into the XY axis
2. trace the outline on that layer
3. add a construction layer one layer thickness above
* Rinse 1-3 and repeat for all layers.
* Combine the outlines, method depending on your program
+ this might be quite easy in blender if you add the new *layer* by extruding the previous one up by one layer thickness and just move the vertices to match the new outline
* finally, export the model as `.stl` depending on your program, slice and print.
> 1 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design
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thread-3631
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3631
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Prints falling off the bed towards the end of the print
|
2017-02-20T23:19:10.480
|
# Question
Title: Prints falling off the bed towards the end of the print
I have been trying to print an object that is 4 inches tall. About at 3 inches it falls off the bed. I am using tape on the heated bed and right before the print I am wiping the bed with rubbing alcohol. After the first time I tried hot gluing it to the bed when it was mid way through so that it wouldn't fall off but that didn't work. I am printing at 185°C and the bed is 55°C. I am using PLA to print. Should I increase the temperature of the bed or is there something else that is wrong?
# Answer
Even though knowing the model of printer is slightly helpful, it's not critical to making your print work. Your PLA manufacturer should have recommendations for both the bed temperature and the nozzle temperature. Is your print bed glass or metal?
As an example, my bed is glass and I set the temperature to 70°C for PLA, but the real temperature at the bed is slightly lower than that.
I'm using 3M brand blue painters tape. What type of tape are you using? It will make a difference. I originally used cleaner on the tape, but found it was not needed. Blue tape means parts stick so well that you have to get them free before the bed cools too much, or you'll have to remove the tape to get the part free.
My PLA nozzle temperature settings range from 190°C to 230°C, depending on the filament. I use the manufacturer's figures and vary them five to ten degrees depending on the results.
Too hot at the nozzle will burn the filament possibly causing a clog, while too cold will cause extruder feeding problems. You did not reference having feeding problems, which implies your nozzle settings are acceptable.
Consider to change your tape and to increase the bed temperature. At a 55°C starting point, you could jump five degrees at a time until you get a good bond.
Also be certain that your bed is level and properly calibrated. The first layer should apply in a slightly "squashed" manner. Too close and the nozzle tears up the tape, but too far and the filament will sit on top and not properly adhere.
> 2 votes
# Answer
You might also try tweaking your settings to add a "raft", which is a wider area surrounding the first layer of your print. The added area is more area to "stick" to the build plate (or tape, or whatever). I've found that often helps.
I've tried using crazy glue in a pinch, to glue down a corner that's coming loose, but as you reported for hot melt glue, it's a long shot. I did get it to work once or twice.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Well, I had the same problem like you. I tried some **raft** but the result was ugly and a little hard to remove it from final part.
I notice that autolevel works fine but, if your printing on top lines are over warping the nozzle will collide until the part fall off the printer. So is needed to minimize this warping controling speed and temperature, maybe the PLA is getting glued to nozzle and creating the warping.
I have set the printer from 185 and 190 to 210 for first layer to increase the adition to tape, the heat bed to 32 degrees to allow the first layer get cold faster to avoid PLA warping. *This may vary depending on city climate*
Remember the heat bed is to control room temperature close the part, not to mold or to print the part. At least, that you are printing a turkey to be finished and cooked.
> 2 votes
# Answer
If you have a dual-extruder printer, your second nozzle could be hitting the part. As the print grows taller, each hit with the nozzle has more chance to knock the part off the build plate.
This can happen from some of the following reasons:
* Nozzles aren't level to each other
* Build plate is not level
* Material oozed and solidify on second nozzle. (Similar to nozzles aren't level)
> 1 votes
# Answer
Check your Z-calibration. I have a similar problem that I'm about to investigate. I have a feeling the Z-axis pulses per mm may need to decrease ever so slightly. The cumulative error may lead to the extruder poking at finished layers as the part gets taller.
> 1 votes
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Tags: pla, prusa-i3, heated-bed
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thread-7881
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7881
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I can't level my bed any more
|
2019-01-06T04:45:55.790
|
# Question
Title: I can't level my bed any more
I have a Monoprice Select v2 that I just bought less than 2 months ago. I've manually leveled it on several prints prior.
I noticed a couple of holes in my print bed after my last print, like the extruder pushed into the sheet really hard. They're both on the same side.
I then noticed that the extruder's horizontal bar wasn't leveled so I leveled it. I did this by unplugging the wire to one motor and modified the z-position so that the other connected side would go up. (Is this the proper way of adjusting the horizontal bar?)
And then I moved the extruder back into its Home position at z-position 0. That's when I noticed that it seems my extruder barely reaches my print bed even though I have the screws almost loosened to the point of detaching from the thread.
The extruder z-limit-switch (I think that's what it's called) seems to be pressed so the extruder is as far down as it can go. The controls also show that the z-position is at 0.
So I'm guessing my print bed somehow lowered. But I don't see how that could possibly be.
Any ideas?
Here are some photos but I'm not even sure what to show really
you can see the z-limit-switch in the right of this pic next to the letter A's you can see my extruder still has some distance to go before reaching my print bed but you can also see that my screws are loosened as much as possible showing the horizontal extruder bar is now leveled
# Answer
> 5 votes
The bar where the level is attached is the support cross-bar for the X-axis travel.
It's important this bar be level, but it's even *more important* the bar be true to the rest of the machine. We call this "leveling" the printer, but really the more accurate term is "tramming". If the bar is level, but the machine sits on an unlevel surface, things are out of sync. This may be the case here.
> I did this by unplugging the wire to one motor and modified the z-position so that the other connected side would go up. (Is this the proper way of adjusting the horizontal bar?)
No. The first image in your question shows two threaded vertical rods: one on the left that is exposed, and one on the right that is more hidden (only a small portion is visible between the two "A" labels). These rods control travel in the vertical "z" direction. Each rod has an **inline coupler** connecting it to the Z-stepper motors. The coupler for the right side is visible just below the square label "A". You adjust the level of the X cross-bar by turning the couplers while the printer is turned off or the motors are otherwise disengaged. This allows you to make finer adjustments for the bar, often without needing to re-home the Z axis.
You can also use this method to correct your immediate problem.
I own a Select Plus, which uses similar construction to your Select V2. When I first got the printer one of my couplers was not adequately secured to the rod. This made for all kinds of difficulty leveling the bed at first, including at one point an issue similar to what you are experiencing.
Re-leveling the X cross-bar is easiest if you are first certain the printer itself is on a level surface. If this is the case, you should be able to use the level in the images to check the cross-bar in the same way you did previously, making adjustments via couplers. *But check that surface first.* If the surface is *not level*, you need to adjust the X cross-bar to be parallel to something in the machine *other than the bed*. While we *want* the bed to match the rest of the machine, the very fact you can adjust this means it's not guaranteed at any point in time, and so you should use something more structural to compare against.
In this case, you can place the same level across the two steel Y-axis travel bars below the bed, and check where the bubble sits. Then make sure the bubble ends up in exactly the same position for the X cross-bar, regardless of whether or not that's level to the ground. The greater precision you can get here, the better things will be.
---
I'm gonna add some notes about leveling the beds on these specific printer models.
There are three basic types of leveling:
1. Manual. You do everything yourself.
2. Assisted. You still do most things yourself, but the machine will help by moving the head quickly to certain positions for you to check. This is what many machines refer to as "automatic", even though it really isn't.
3. Automatic. This is where the machine does everything, using lasers to map the bed or some other contact sensor to detect when the head approaches the bed and make it's own adjustments. Often this only uses software to compensate for the bed, and so you still want to get the bed as level as possible first without this option.
The Select V2 and Select Plus only do #2: assisted.
When I was starting out, my research indicated you should generally level your print beds "hot", because heating a print bed will expand it and potentially change the results. This makes sense to me.
However, the instructions included with my Select Plus said nothing about heating the bed, and if followed precisely meant I leveled a cold bed. Additionally, the so-called "automatic" (really: "assisted") leveling tool in the firmware also does not keep the bed heated, meaning if you want to level it hot you must do it entirely manually.
This caused me great difficulty when first starting out getting a good level, because I was trying to do it manually on a hot bed. I finally gave up on that, and started using the assisted tool on a cold bed. To my surprise and relief — and counter to what I've read elsewhere — I've had *much* better results when doing it cold this way. But this may be some peculiar to these printers, perhaps involving the special mat it uses on the surface of the bed.
I'm also considering this upgrade (Update: I recently installed it, but it's too soon to know if it's helping), to help improve things even further, since there is some curvature in my plate:
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B251KBS/
Finally, there's an interesting seesaw effect when working on a square print bed with four adjustment knobs. I have a post about it here:
> Leveling a square 3d printer bed with four mounting posts
# Answer
> 5 votes
For leveling your bed ***you do not require the use of a bubble level***! This is not necessary, if you do, ***you need to place the printer on a bubble level underground***. It is far easier to level the bed relative to the printer frame rather than to the outside world. Basically the bed and the X-axis (the axis that moves your nozzle) need to be parallel and each side of the X-axis needs to have the same distance to a reference point on the frame.
In order to level your X-axis you need to position both of the sides at a certain, same distance ***from a reference point on your frame***, e.g. you could measure this with respect to the top of the Z stepper attachments. If you have 2 steppers, it is easy as you can individually move them by turning the lead screw when the stepper motors are not powered. Once you have each side at the correct distance you can commence a homing sequence and start leveling your bed.
You mention that you are running out of threads for proper leveling of the bed while the Z minimum limit switch is pressed/activated. What you need to do is lower the switch a little so that you have some extra height available. If the switch is at the lowest, you could consider drilling extra holes or filing it down, or print one of the Z-adjustment mods that can be found on the web. This should be enough to level your bed properly. Leveling can be done cold or hot, the difference is that the heat expands the plate a little or causes some changes in the shape of the bed due to the expansion or uneven heating. This difference is usually very small, but sometimes causes your prints not to stick to a hot plate when leveled cold.
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Tags: bed-leveling, monoprice-maker-select
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thread-6600
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6600
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How thick is 0.1 mm?
|
2018-08-08T16:36:46.010
|
# Question
Title: How thick is 0.1 mm?
I have a printer with a 0.1 mm typical layer thickness. Of course I can choose some different sizes in Cura or other slicing software, but most prints on this machine will be 0.1 mm. In my (admittedly limited) experience thus far, the 0.1 mm seems typical for other printers, too.
I want to get a sense of just how thick this is. I know about the paper trick for leveling the print bed, but my understanding is the first layer pushes into the bed a little, meaning it's less than 0.1 mm and so paper isn't a good example for the typical layer.
Is there a similar item with close to 0.1 mm thickness I can use to visualize this?
# Answer
> 5 votes
I'm not sure exactly what you mean by your comment to Davo's answer, but with respect to your use of a sheet of paper reference, it seems like you can still use *80 gsm* paper as a reference for 0.1 mm layers.
From Paper Sizes Explained (emphasis is mine):
> There is no universal calculation for the thickness of paper based on the gsm as varitaions in paper composition can affect the weight, so two different brands of 120gsm paper could have slightly different thicknesses. However, **an average sheet of 80gsm paper, the most commonly used weight, measures approximately 0.1mm in thickness**, which means that *10 sheets would measure 1mm*. By comparison, *10 sheets of 120gsm paper would be 1.5mm thick*, assuming the paper composition was the same.
So, given that:
* 80 gsm =\> 0.1 mm
* 120 gsm =\> 0.15 mm
Then
* 40 gsm =\> 0.05 mm
* 60 gsm =\> 0.075 mm
From A Guide to Paper Types and Sizes
```
Paper Weight Descriptions
Weight Feels Similar to:
35-55 gsm Most newspapers
90 gsm Mid-market magazine inner pages
130-250 gsm A good quality promotional poster
180-250 gsm Mid-market magazine cover
350 gsm Most reasonable quality business cards
```
So, it would appear that you could use a newspaper sheet (or two) to test for layers of less than 0.1 mm. Obviously this would depend upon where in the world you are, and the (physical) quality of your newspapers. Here in the UK, or rather Europe, the *exported version* of the Guardian used to be printed on some extremely lightweight paper (almost transparent tissue thin), in order to keep the costs of transport down to a minimum. So a folded sheet of that would certainly be in the range of 0.75 - 0.99 mm (which seems to be the range that you are looking for). However, given that the printed media (as opposed to the online version) is currently in decline, I am not entirely sure if it is still available.
Or, how about grease proof paper? From the Wikipedia entry:
> Basis weights are usually 30–50 g/m²
Although, this paper has been processed (supercalandered) and treated with starch, which will increase the density, so the thickness will not correlate to the table above (i.e. it will be thinner).
Giftwrap paper (not the really thick stuff) could be another option.
After having doing some long winded googling, I guess that the best bet would be to get hold of a micrometer and measure whatever paper yourself, as the specifications of paper are generally given in `gsm` and not `mm` (which is a bit annoying), and so it is somewhat difficult to provide you with a definitive answer (without physically measuring it).
# Answer
> 5 votes
Maybe a better way to visualise 0.1mm is to explain that it only becomes really visible on a shallow slope. A 10 degree slope will place one layer boundary every 8mm, and these steps will probably be visible on a print.
For a sphere, such as the 3D-hubs marvin, this means that the top portion will have a clear layering, but the majority of the shape should have minimal visible layers. For example, this was printed at 0.1mm layer as a test: You could also say that the layer is about the same as the embossing on a typical coin (using the same photo as a reference), but realise that the resolution of embossing is greater.
Looking inside the eyes of this model demonstrates how a gentle slope exposes the presence of layers.
# Answer
> 1 votes
IMO, better way for the thickness visualization is the feeler gauge. Also it can be successfully used for the calibration of gap between the nozzle and the hotbed (instead paper)
# Answer
> 0 votes
Sure. Get a 0.1mm thick feeler gauge.
http://duckduckgo.com/?q=feeler+gauge+.1mm
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Tags: layer-height
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thread-7686
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7686
|
Heatbed PID vs Bang-Bang - which one is more stressing on components?
|
2018-12-17T21:47:17.720
|
# Question
Title: Heatbed PID vs Bang-Bang - which one is more stressing on components?
I recently switched from Bang-Bang to PID controlled bed heating. The stock firmware pulsed On/Off with about 5 seconds each cycle. Now with PID, my bed keeps its temperature much more stable, the frequency is around 7Hz.
Although the total amount of energy used for heating should be less now since the heating is more efficient and doesn't waste energy by cooling down, I am a bit concerned of the fast pulsing of the rather high amperage (around 13 Amps in my case).
So I was wondering, do the faster cycles cause more stress on the components (I am thinking MOSFET on the board and components inside the PSU) or is this negligible? I am particularly curious since this is a rather low budget printer (Anycubic i3 Mega, $350 printer with a generic unbranded PSU) and I don't want to push its limits too much.
The only thing I can observe is a very faint noise with the same frequency as the pulses. Might have been the same on 5 second cycles, I was just not paying attention to it back then.
I'd be very glad if somebody could chime in on this.
Thanks in advance.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The frequency of the cycle shouldn't affect the efficiency as such, however more might be lost due to physical properties. Fast should cause less stress on the printed part, unless it hits a resonance frequency, which it unlikely.
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Tags: heated-bed, electronics, safety
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thread-7900
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7900
|
Bad layers in otherwise good prints
|
2019-01-07T12:47:51.107
|
# Question
Title: Bad layers in otherwise good prints
I can print a reasonably high quality print, but then there will be a millimetre or two of rubbish.
This can happen at the start of a print, in the middle or at the end.
It doesn't seem to be bad G-code as I can reprint with good results.
There seems to be a correlation between the bad layers and walls. They seem to occurs when there is a transition to printing a horizontal wall.
The latter if there two images if the tail end of a thirteen hour print.
1. What's causing this?
2. Is it something I can fix or is it that the (new) printer is failing?
# Answer
This can be caused by various problems, of which an aforementioned filament diameter is only one of multiple possible causes.
The observed phenomenon is called ***under-extrusion***. Temporary under-extrusion can also be caused by filament friction on the spool, too low or too high filament extruder gear friction (pressure on the filament by the roller), or friction in a Bowden tube (dust particles).
Please ensure your spool unrolls freely (not entangled; entangled filament is audible like "ker-chunk" when the filament is rearranged on the spool by force of the extruder pulling) and check the extruder for friction or slip. If the extruder gear slips, this is also accompanied by an audible "click" that is called clicking. This generally implies that there is too much friction in the hot end, or an obstruction/clog.
Considering that your print recovers from the problem, and that it occurs randomly, the best guess is that your filament in entangled now and then.
> 2 votes
# Answer
One of the reasons for such a defect may be a local decrease in the diameter of the filament. Carefully check your filament.
> 1 votes
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Tags: print-quality, troubleshooting, quality
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thread-7905
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7905
|
Designing lenses
|
2019-01-07T15:54:09.763
|
# Question
Title: Designing lenses
Recently, I did discover that it might be possible to print fully solid, air free and thus optical homogenous, even with PLA.
How can I design a proper focusing lens (or rather: single sided lens with a flat bottom) with this, ignoring the post-processing needed to get the surface smooth?
# Answer
To calculate the focal length of an optical element, the two main factors are the refraction index and the shape of the lens.
For a cylindrical lens with one optic active side (that is, one domed or bowled side), we can ignore the whole bottom cylinder and just take into account the top dome. The shape of the dome is determined by the radius of the circle that created it.
# Thin, single sided lenses
For a thin, single-sided lens the rather complicated Gullstrand’s formula to calculate the focal length of lenses becomes rather simple:
$f = \frac {r}{(n-1)}$ for the bend facing the object
$f = \frac {r}{(1-n)}= \frac {-r}{(n-1)}$ for mounting it in reverse.
A Polymer database did give a refraction index of PLA as $n=1.465$.
# Thick, single sided lenses
For a thick lens with a total thickness of $d$ and one active side, we solve first for the one active side, and then insert: $$f\_1=\frac{r}{n} \land \frac {-r}{(1-n)} ; f\_2=\infty ; P\_i = \frac 1 {f\_i}$$ $$P=P\_1+P\_2 -P\_1P\_2\frac d n ; P\_2\to0$$ $$f=\frac{1}{P\_1}=f\_1$$ As long as one side of our lense stays flat, the thickness of the lense is mathematically not relevant (save for increasing dispersion).
> 3 votes
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Tags: pla, 3d-design
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thread-7842
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7842
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Why is Print Adhesion almost good, but still not right?
|
2019-01-01T04:15:05.980
|
# Question
Title: Why is Print Adhesion almost good, but still not right?
It feels like my print is almost there, I spent a long time fine tuning the calibration with a fantastic set of G-code files from Chuck Hellebuyck.
I am using an Ender 3, on which I have modified the heatbed to carry a glass sheet, otherwise factory standard. The prints are done on the bare glass. When I printed a window some 14 feet (~4.5 meters) away was open to the cold New York winter. The cooling fan on the Ender 3 is mounted on the right side of the hotend and uses a simple declector, it can be seen in picture 2.
However, my print is not perfect yet. I'm using 1.75 mm PLA at a temperature of 200 °C for the 0.4 mm nozzle and a bed temperature of 60 °C. Out of the 4 corners, 3 printed perfectly, the back-left one did lift.
What do I need to do to fix the bed adhesion issue?
# Answer
Based on the pictures, this looks like the bed wasn't clean enough, thus why it didn't adhere correctly in some spots. The lifted corner is the worst, but I can see a couple more spots where the PLA didn't stick well enough, though the brim prevented it to completely lift off the bed.
I would advise you to not print with the window open, even if it's only slightly ajar. Weather conditions and temperature will affect the quality of the print, even if it's only a small variation in temperature. I've had enough failed prints due to a shift in temperature to know that, even though PLA isn't affected as much than ABS by temperature changes through a print.
You might also try to increase the bed temperature a bit, up to 70°C or 80°C. I've looked at the recommended temperature for PLA with my UM3E and it says 80°C for the glass bed.
You should always make sure that the glass bed is clean: ie no dust on it and no grease. Yes, touching it with your fingers will leave a thin greasy residue in the form of fingerprints, and even one fingerprint can prevent good adhesion and result in the problem you had.
There are various products to clean glass beds, I've personally found out that the cheap yellow-colored window cleaner from Karcher works wonder. Do not use the standard blue colored window cleaner products: the blue one has a chemical in it that is made with the express intent to prevent anything to adhere to the glass, which is obviously not what we want. The yellow-colored cleaner doesn't have that chemical, and it cleans without depositing an anti-adhesion film on the glass.
If a thorough cleaning isn't sufficient, you can look into various adhesive products. While there is quite a lot of adhesive solutions marketed as being specifically for 3D printing, with insane prices most of the time, I've found that a simple UHU glue stick works wonders. I usually do not need glue when printing PLA, but I use it for Nylon, ABS and other filament that absolutely require it and it's a breeze to work with, and it cleans easily with soap and warm water.
> 2 votes
# Answer
This is a standard adhesion problem with glass beds:
Glass beds are super level, but they transfer heat less good than metal and BuildTak. This also means that not every spot always has the exact same temperature, which can come from a lot of things, for example, a draft from the open window jitting that corner and causing lifting.
There are some super easy and cheap solutions:
* Painters Tape adds a little *bite* to the surface, but you need to level to its top.
* a thin PVA (Gluestick, wood glue, hairspray, or specifically designed sprays for 3D printing) bonds the first layers much better to the glass
* for ABS, ABS-in-acetone-slurry is a known bed adhesive
* measure the top of the bed temperature - you will find out that the increased thermal capacity of the bed+glass sheet means that your set bed temperature is not reached on the bed surface. Adjust as needed!
* prevent any and all draft (close windows and doors)
> 1 votes
# Answer
Despite all advice to the contrary, I've had no luck with glue or masking tape. I print directly onto a glass bed.
The glass is much thicker than the surface that was originally on the heat plate, because of this heat takes longer to reach the surface of the glass and the temperature probe on the plate is even more inaccurate than it was originally.
Using a laser thermometer, I found that pre-heating the plate before the build starts solves the problem as this give the temperature time to even out.
Clamp the glass firmly to the heat plate with as many plastic clamps as you can fit (metal ones are too heavy those post office crocodile clips might work). This will give it a better thermal connection.
If that do any work, increase the bed heat to 60° and/or nozzle to 210°.
Also, clean the glass with washing up liquid and then window cleaner and only hold it with a clean tissue after.
> 0 votes
# Answer
I work with a glass surface on my machine and use a drop of superglue to attach the corners after the first layer is complete. The biggest contributors to not sticking are :
1. Bed not level.
2. Temperature of filament not hot enough.
3. First layer print speed is too fast.
4. Heated Bed not hot enough to compensate for cold room. Try enclosing print area.
5. Head is snagging on print edges (no retraction when moving) and ripping print loose.
6. Print bed surface is not clean. Use acetone or ammonia for cleaning glass. Alcohol leaves an oily residue.
If you are printing on painters tape, make sure the bed is very clean when you put the tape down. Then make sure you rub the tape down well so it doesn't pull off of the print bed surface during printing. Then clean the tape surface to get the oil from your hands off of the tape.
I use Glass Build Plate Wizard spray for delicate prints and a heated bed. It releases after the print plate cools down. That eliminates the need to chip the print loose. It releases itself after a few minutes.
> -4 votes
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Tags: creality-ender-3, troubleshooting, adhesion
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thread-7867
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7867
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What causes this "stringing" and can my print recover from this?
|
2019-01-04T00:08:32.683
|
# Question
Title: What causes this "stringing" and can my print recover from this?
Here's what it looks like
This is the model thingiverse linky
It looks like it couldn't print the edge, but this happened many many hours after printing the brim.
This did not happen with my 1st attempt at this print. The last print lost adhesion and I had to scrap it. This time, adhesion looks good so not sure why this happened.
Printing with Monoprice Select V2 with ABS, sliced with Cura. 100C bed / 250C extruder. 15mm/s initial layer speed. 60 mm/s print speed.
**Update** It looks like the printer is starting to smooth it out like so. Still not sure if this will lead to an ok print or will fail because of this layer. And it seems the stringing area does not have a brim underneath it. Did Cura just not calculate the brim size correctly?
**Update2** Here's a few screenshots from Cura to show that the model is lying completely flat. I let the print go on overnight and here's where I stopped it It almost seems like the print shifted completely after printing the initial layer. Have you ever seen anything like this or is there anything in my Cura model that would make it do this?
# Answer
No, ***your problem is not related to slicing***, ***this is a hardware problem***. Your complete print has shifted, this is called layer shift.
This could happen when the nozzle hits an obstruction while printing while the Y stepper continues. This could lead to skipping teeth on the belts, slipping of the pulley or missing steps. This results in printing over air as the print progresses. This manifests itself as stringing, but in fact is unsupported printing (in the air). In this case it is unrecoverable as the printer has lost the reference frame, it just continues to print with the new reference frame caused by the layer shift.
A Prusa MK3, or any printerboard using trinamic stepper drivers would be able to recover (if the belt and pulley are correctly attached, and steps are missed) as the skipping of steps is detected, in case of a Prusa MK3 the machine will re-home when it detects skipped steps and continue printing. See also this answer for more details.
Possible solutions are increasing the belt tension, increase the stepper torque by increasing the current through the stepper drivers or re-tighten the pulley on the stepper of the Y belt.
> 3 votes
# Answer
# No, the print is lost.
## First thoughts after Update 1
Your print will not perfectly recover from this stringing issue, which to me looks to be unsupported bridging. I postulate that your slicing seems to be made with the model not aligned flat on the bottom correctly.
The biggest indicator for this is, that the brim is passing right underneath the model, so in that area, the slicer did not detect the model touching the surface, which means it is considered floating.
Re-slice the model and check in layer view that you absolutely have the bottom touching to the sheet everywhere. Use the "lay flat" function (which should suffice) or enable at least 10% support to the build plate (which in this case should not be needed). Even though the model doesn't *need* this because the base is flat as to inspection, the last resort could be to move the item 0.1 mm into the sheet, cutting off any odd protrusion your slicer identifies that can result in parts of the object "floating" and demanding to bridge long ways into the unsupported nirvana.
## New Thoughts/Revision after Update 2
After the new photos, it became apparent that it was *not* a slicing issue of a slightly angled print but a **layer shift.**
You will have to check the tension of your bed belt and if anything might have come into your bed movement. On my Ender 3 I had tried a cable chain, which did hinder Y-Axis movement - make sure that it has not even a movement of short snagging.
Make sure that your nozzle does not snatch on the print as it moves. Maybe activate Z-hopping.
> 2 votes
# Answer
Both @Oscar and @Trish have identified the problem in their answers. Upon further investigation, I believe I found the root of the problem.
The Monoprice Select V2 has what I think is an inherent design flaw with how its wires are routed. The wire can sometimes (1) get caught on the frame (when the y-axis is moving towards its maximum position), (2) get caught between the frame and the print bed preventing the y-axis from reaching the minimum position, and (3) it even hits the y-limit-switch sometimes.
Here's a backview of the printer where you can see problem (1) where the wire can get caught by the frame. You can also see the y-limit-switch and I saw first-hand when the wire bundle caught it, forcing another layer shift in my print.
For problem (1) above, I found this solution seems to help thingiverse link
To resolve all of the wiring issues, you have to unwrap the wires and reroute them. People online say this voids the warranty.
The wire jamming doesn't always happen. But when you printer moves back and forth along the y-axis hundreds of times for a large print, there's a high probability it snags at some point. This is very frustrating after many hours of printing. And I'm thinking of getting another printer for this reason.
I should note that it looks like Monoprice's next version printer, the Monoprice Select Plus, doesn't seem like it would have this problem since the control unit is integrated and the wires don't seem like they would be in the way.
> 2 votes
# Answer
There are many problems caused with this. It could be a faulty motors, an unlevel bed, a dirty nozzle, or even something as simple as using the wrong filament settings. It would be best to go through a checklist of things that might be wrong with your printer. It could also just be caused by the wear and tear of a really old printer.
> -3 votes
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Tags: troubleshooting, print-failure, monoprice-maker-select
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thread-7908
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7908
|
Mystery filament cleaning fluid
|
2019-01-07T17:32:49.747
|
# Question
Title: Mystery filament cleaning fluid
Whilst looking to fix a different problem I had I came across this video.
It's a filament reel holder, but at 02:40 the person uses a mysterious fluid. I haven't seen anything like this before (though had wondered).
Mystery cleaning fluid.
What practical problems would this cleaning fluid mitigate?
# Answer
> 3 votes
That's a filament cleaner/oiler combo. The black bottle is a variety of machine oil.
The effect of oilers on prints is heavily disputed in the community. The suggestion of plant oils is a very bad one as they can create residue that stays in the hotend and create clogs.
# Answer
> 0 votes
For really long Bowden tubes, some people use Teflon lubricant in a cleaner bead.
Never used it myself, since I use a small tube my printer with the stepper on top of one of the Z axis steel rod mounting plates (Anet A8).
Off topic, but by cooking and being a vaper, I vouch that organic compounds leave gunky residues on hot surfaces/parts.
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Tags: print-quality, extruder, quality, filament-quality
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|
thread-5262
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5262
|
Printer going wild mid print
|
2018-01-11T02:54:44.370
|
# Question
Title: Printer going wild mid print
Mid way through prints the print head will crash into the print, then crash into the bed, raise up about 3 inches, and start swinging back and forth over one part of the bed.
I have had successful prints with the same firmware, but this just started happening and I cannot wrap my head around why. The part of the bed it swings back and forth over is the same on every print. It also do not occur at any particular time, on some prints it will happen after the first few layers, on other it will happen mid way.
My printer is an anycubic kossel delta running marlin. I have tried re uploading marlin and switching slicer software. I have used mattercontrol, cura and ultimaker cura.
Thank you!
# Answer
> 4 votes
For anyone having the same issue I found out it was due to a Z axis motor lock up because the pulley attached to it would get stuck under the bed. I found out because I tried to print again and it locked up completely and I had to pull it out with pliers. Just finished an 18 hour print to confirm
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Tags: marlin, ultimaker-cura, delta
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|
thread-7805
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7805
|
How can I get a 3D model from a bunch of 2D photos?
|
2018-12-28T22:55:23.963
|
# Question
Title: How can I get a 3D model from a bunch of 2D photos?
I am a physics graduate student and I want to create some 3D models for my crystal samples. We have an X-ray diffractometer in our lab. It comes with a goniometer inside it, so basically I can take as many photos as needed from any angles. (I have included a gif animation made of 10 photos taken by the machine as an example below)
My problem is, given these 2D photos, am I able to construct 3D models for my crystals in AutoCAD or similar software so that I can determine angles, edge lengths and volume more precisely.
I am new to 3D printing section. I just thought maybe someone here has encountered with a similar problem. It would be very helpful if anyone could tell me any Github codes, MATLAB scripts, Mathematica scripts or software that can finish this kind of job. I can try to figure it out myself.
# Answer
YES, it is possible to make a model from several shots, if you know the angle of rotation between the pictures.
most CAD programs allow to insert a picture, for example as backdrop or to trace it. We are interested in the later use:
We insert the picture, trace it in the picture's layer, then insert the next picture, rotated around the axis of rotation of the picture, and trace that. This we repeat again and again. The resulting cloud of outlines approximates the photographed body to a good degree.
There is a big caveat though: all photos must be in the same scale and distance, the rotation of the object has to be around one axis of the item itself (no wobble) and the rotation between the pictures has to be known quite exact. This principle is pretty much used by raster scanning by the way.
With a very hard contrast between the crystal and the backdrop, software might be able to automate the tracing process (for example use a white background and a black crystal and make sure no reflection hits the camera).
# Example using Fusion360
Let's assume I have a perfect crystal like this octahedron with two cut tips
To model this, we need at least a photo of the XZ and YZ shape (that is, 90° rotation to each other), which look like this:
But that shape would also match a double-cone! So we'll need some intermediary photos, in this case, the 45° shot that lies on the plane of (XY-diagonal)Z Plane
As you see, the more outlines you have, the more detailed the pseudo-body becomes - it is just a gathering of vertices and lines yet though! But, we can take 3 points and create a construction area on these, then draw the face to merge all points on these faces...
Now, we turn these construction faces into modeling faces, then create a too large object and cut out the whole thing out...
The whole workflow looked like this for 4 pictures (0°, 45°, 90°, 135°)
The actual f3D design file is here.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Inspired by the answer given by @Trish and the following YouTube video, I finally worked out the way to reconstruct the 3D crystal model in AutoCAD.
1. Import 6 images into AutoCAD. The photos are taken from 6 different angles with 30 degrees separation.
2. Draw 6 lines of length 100 along Y axis in the XY plane.
3. Use ALINE command to align the rotation axis in the photos to the added vertical lines.
4. Use SCALE command to rescale all 6 photos into a uniform size.
5. Use POLYLINE command to trace the cross sections from 6 raster images.
6. Use 3DROTATE command to rotate 6 images and the corresponding rotation axes and traced cross sections along Y axis. The first picture was rotated 75 degrees clockwise when viewed along the +Y axis, the second 45 degrees, the third 15 degrees, the fourth -15 degrees... (Tips: The rotation gizmo will only show in a 3D view. If you didn't see the gizmo, drag the view cube on the right-top to change the view point and try again.) (view from Y axis) (view from Z axis)
7. Use 3DMOVE command to move 6 images so that the rotation axis of each image is aligned in a same circle on the YZ plane. (You would need a little bit calculation to finish this step) (view from Y axis) (view from Z axis)
8. Use EXTRUDE command to extrude 6 cross sections into 6 cylinders, the height of each cylinder should be long enough so that 6 cylinders will intersect.
9. Use INTERSECT command to get the intersected part from 6 cylinders, this would be the wanted crystal model.
> 3 votes
# Answer
You may want to do a search for "photogrammetry". This is software that uses many photos to build a 3D model. Dr. Falkingham did a good review of free software on his blog:
https://peterfalkingham.com/2016/09/14/trying-all-the-free-photogrammetry/ https://peterfalkingham.com/2017/12/17/free-photogrammetry-software-review-2017/
His conclusion that works very well for me uses COLMAP to take the photos and build a point cloud, then OpenMVS to build and texture a mesh from the point cloud.
https://colmap.github.io/ https://github.com/cdcseacave/openMVS/wiki/Usage
I have not used many commercial packages, but Pix4D has worked very well for me.
https://www.pix4d.com/
I hope that gets you started.
> 1 votes
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Tags: 3d-models, graphics
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|
thread-7918
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7918
|
Bed too close to nozzle?
|
2019-01-08T14:45:17.120
|
# Question
Title: Bed too close to nozzle?
I've been having some bed adhesion problems that I have been trying to solve by leveling the bed. I think that it's pretty level now but when I start a print the lines seem pretty flat. Is this true? I used a feeler gauge to have a 0.2 mm gap between the bed and nozzle, but the center feels as though there's more space, despite the tape (ie I didn't feel any resistance when leveling the center) so I'm not sure if the plastic is too squished or not.
I am printing PLA with 210 °C at Nozzle and 60 °C on bed. I also used a 130% extrusion factor for the first layer on a Creality CR-10S. It did come without a black print surface but with a glass sheet and a roll of painters tape instead, so I opted for Blue-tape.
Also, I see some stringing, which seems to happen with skirts and brims (this is my first brim) and a bit of under extrusion in the center. But those are probably concerns fit for a separate question.
# Answer
**No**, the **bed does not look too close to the nozzle**, it could well be that it is **too far** from the nozzle. However, the brim looks okay, but the method you follow is questionable.
Using a feeler gauge of 0.2 mm is larger than the recommended paper method which is in the order of half that value (0.1 mm). You compensate this larger leveling gap with an over-extrusion of 130 %. The preferred method is using a thinner feeler gauge or a sheet of paper without over-extrusion. The reasoning is that if you have a 0.2 mm to start with, adding the first layer thickness (e.g. 0.2 mm) would imply that you are already starting at a 0.4 mm gap on your first layer. You now try to push out more filament to fill that gap (resulting in not really pressing the filament to the plate).
Furthermore, your tape does not look like it is laid down next to each other, it looks as though it is laid over each other. This creates an uneven bed surface.
Finalizing, you should do whatever you do to get the filament to stick to the build plate, if it works for you, use it. If it doesn't produce viable prints, or you are not satisfied with the surface finish, change it.
> 6 votes
# Answer
After clarifying the printer type and specs, I have to go d'accord with 0scar's answer about the bed leveling thickness: try to go down to 0.1 mm.
About the bed adhesion I have a couple of pieces of advice though:
* Go with what works for you (Rule #1: Never change a *running* system)
* Try out the bare glass bed coated in...
+ Gluestick left to dry a little (that is PVA!)
+ a super thin layer of Wood Glue (also PVA)
+ Hairspray (also PVA)
+ 3D-Lac (PVA again)
* When sticking with tape (pun!), lay it down side by side with no overlap. Wider tape is better.
+ try different brands of tape, I prefer the rougher surface tapes
* don't fear to use your heatbed! 60°C is the common PLA print bed temperature.
+ if you can, take a thermosensor/thermometer and check what the temperature on top of the glass actually is: you might need to adjust the heater setting up to get a bed surface of 60°C.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I cannot stress enough how much purple glue stick helps with this exact problem.
I had a cheap XYZ printer that I used nearly half a spool of filament on trying to align and get prints to stick. After ten hours straight of hair pulling and desperation, I smeared some purple glue stick across the build plate -- worked like a charm. Works great even just on bare glass, although I usually use blue tape underneath.
Also had one of those cheap Monoprice MP Mini and a 3D Solutions Cube which both benefited greatly from the glue stick.
I've had a few cheap printers that I carried with me for educational purposes in a backpack and I'm sure the alignment wasn't ideal, but the glue always made it work perfectly.
Elmer's makes one, I picked up a 3 pack of cheap ones on Amazon with great success.
> 0 votes
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Tags: troubleshooting, adhesion, creality-cr-10
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thread-7915
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7915
|
Font suitable for 3D printing
|
2019-01-08T09:26:21.183
|
# Question
Title: Font suitable for 3D printing
I am looking for a font, which is connected and has a good line width (so that it can be 3D printed). Something like in the image below:
Something like in the image above would be great, but I don't know the name. Do you have a suggestion for a font?
# Answer
That particular font is Sarina Regular and is part of the Google Fonts collection. Just Google "connected handwritten fonts" to find more. Kimberly Geswein does a good selection of handwritten fonts. A lot of them are constant width, but most are unconnected.
> 1 votes
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Tags: 3d-models
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|
thread-2884
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2884
|
Does the printing substrate have to be glass? If so, what size?
|
2016-10-12T22:17:12.497
|
# Question
Title: Does the printing substrate have to be glass? If so, what size?
I am new to 3D printing. I have just put together my own 3D printer with some help.
I was advised I shouldn't print directly onto the aluminium plate - I assume it's aluminium.
1. The manufacturer did give me a piece of matrix board (i.e. no cooper at all) to print on. Will this work well?
2. If glass is better, does it have to cover the entire bed? My bed is 275 mm deep by 220 mm wide. I'm struggling to find glass for it that will come within the next few days. The only custom cut was on eBay and it's going to take over a week to arrive.
# Answer
Obviously being in a rush can limit your options, but here are a few thoughts:
**Quick solutions:**
* **Blue painters tape** (as Carl mentioned) will work directly on your heated bed...assuming it's a flat piece of aluminum with the heating element under it. Your surface does need to be flat.
* **Acrylic plate** will work but is best with no heat, or low heat. PLA sticks to it. It's easy to cut and easy to find at local hardware stores.
* **Scrap glass** is fairly easy to find for free and it's not that hard to cut...or buy some at your local hardware store and have them cut it. Just be careful, it's sharp. You can sand the sharp edges (wet sandpaper) to make it safer. **No, it doesn't have to cover the whole plate, but obviously covering the whole plate would normally be preferred.**
**Better (but not as fast) solutions:**
* **Buy some custom tempered glass.** I like One Day Glass because they're fast and very capable. Like Tom says, many many people print on glass because it's nice and flat and stiff. It's also easy to clean and holds up well. You can print on the bare glass with many materials or use various preparations like PVA (glue stick or white glue diluted with water are popular), hairspray, or others.
* **Touch Screen Glass:** Some people like replacement glass for tablets or touch screens because it has a hardened scratch-resistant surface. I've not tried it, but if you can find one that is the right size, it might be worth a shot.
* **Specialty products:** There are many many print bed products out there that promise an easier/better printing experience. I've used a few that are okay...definitely better than blue painters tape, but I much prefer my current favorite...
* **My current favorite is PEI.** Use a 3M 468MP adhesive sheet (it handles the heat well) to stick a thin sheet PEI (also sold under brand name Ultem) on top of your glass plate. I got this idea from Lulzbot and it's what they use on all of their printers. It works beautifully. Common filaments stick to it while it's hot and release easily while it's cool. For other filaments I just use PVA like I would over glass. For material printing tips and settings that work well on PEI beds, check out Lulzbot's site. When it starts wearing out or getting scuffed up, I just sand it with fine sandpaper and I'm good to go for another hundred prints or so.
> 5 votes
# Answer
Printing on glass is very common because it is very flat and leaves a very smooth finish on the bottom of prints. The perfboard will also work fine, but is not an as common choice because prints are harder to remove from it.
Printing directly onto the heater PCB is uncommon since it is usually not flat enough and you may damage it while removing the print.
> 2 votes
# Answer
In Russia, a common coating for an aluminum plate is masking paper tape.
Instead of ordinary glass, we often use a mirror, it is smoother.
Hair spray, sugar syrup and beer are also used as adhesives. It is not joke - their residue is sticky and can be rinsed off.
> 2 votes
# Answer
I have been printing for over 2 years directly onto the 3 mm Aluminum heated bed platform using a touch of PVA based print adhesion spray 3DLAC or Dimafix (see e.g. this answer on question "Should you use hairspray on a metal bed 3D printer?"). I've obtained best results with 3DLAC. Works like a charm! Always good adhesion and a very shiny and flat surface finish. I have not found any downsides of printing directly onto the Aluminum, I find it very easy as I do not have to fight that dreadful tape (application, bubbling, tearing, etc.).
> 1 votes
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Tags: build-plate
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thread-7845
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7845
|
How to format an SD card for Monoprice Select Mini V2?
|
2019-01-02T00:48:24.630
|
# Question
Title: How to format an SD card for Monoprice Select Mini V2?
I bought a 32 GB SDHC (Sandisk) I'd like to use for my Monoprice 3D printer.
I have downloaded Partition Wizard and partitioned a 2GB primary partition formatted as FAT and it still does not show any files.
What am I doing wrong?
# Answer
For an SD card to work with the printer firmware Monoprice suggests to format the SD card to FAT32.
However, the Monoprice Select Mini V2 is not able to read SDHC memory cards, it is advised to use an SD card (smaller than 4 GB) instead.
According to the Monoprice support website: "Why is my printer not reading my SD card?":
> If the SD card is not recognized on the printer or if the files are not reading, it could be an issue with the actual card itself. The first thing we recommend checking is that none of the print files on the SD card contain a space in their name. This shows in the printer as an unidentified character and can cause issues. If none of your prints contain spaces, we recommend reformatting your SD card.
>
> Note: If you choose to purchase an SD card, ***please make sure that it is not labeled HC (High Capacity)*** as it ***may not be compatible with the printer***. This means that ***the card must be smaller than 4GB in size***.
The last part of the support page is probably applicable to your card.
Some further information can be found in What is the largest microSD card that a Monoprice Select Mini can read?, specifically this answer. From this latter answer, I quote:
> Cards between 2 GB and 32 GB ***might*** work, depending on the specifics of the card
Basically there are no guarantees when using large cards.
> 7 votes
# Answer
I was having problems formatting micro SD cards for my Monoprice Mini v2. I have some 256 MB cards tried formatting them FAT FAT32 etc, no luck.
Then I downloaded a program called SD Memory Card Formatter did the format on the card with this and the card is now readable in the printer.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: sd, microsd, monoprice-select-mini
---
|
thread-5445
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5445
|
In Fusion 360 how do I select an entire 3D object, not just its sides or faces?
|
2018-02-09T07:18:03.403
|
# Question
Title: In Fusion 360 how do I select an entire 3D object, not just its sides or faces?
I'd like to mirror a triangular prism I made. However, whenever I select it I am only able to select the faces or sides.
Is there a way to select the whole 3D object to move or mirror it?
# Answer
Yes, there is a "select" tool in the toolbar next to "make". You can use select filters to select components, bodies and faces.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Selecting the body in the browser will select the entire body. Clicking on the body in the viewer will only get you faces or edges.
A long click (click and hold) on the model will give you options on what to select. You can choose a face or body under "Depth" or choose a body or feature under "Parents."
> 4 votes
# Answer
In the top left of your workspace (still inside the editor) you will have a dropdown, in that dropdown there is a folder called bodies, open that and select the body you want. You can then move the selected body.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: software, cad, fusion360
---
|
thread-7953
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7953
|
Cura doesn't slice
|
2019-01-12T07:43:59.560
|
# Question
Title: Cura doesn't slice
I can launch Cura with no issues, it runs fine. I can import objects and change settings, but when I click 'slice' it doesn't even show a progress bar on 3.6.0 and on v4 it shows a progress bar but there's never any progress. I've looked in %appdata%\cura\4.0\cura.log and it just stops at an entry like this:
> 2019-01-11 20:38:46,714 - DEBUG - \[MainThread\] CuraEngineBackend.CuraEngineBackend.\_onStartSliceCompleted \[430\]: Sending slice message took 0.7397589683532715 seconds
I looked in task manager and the system idle process has \>95% cpu (cpu is almost completely idle), and like I said I can use Cura just fine (no stuttering when I rotate objects).
# Answer
> 5 votes
The culprit was ZoneAlarm firewall. Cura runs and talks to another executable (CuraEngine.exe) for slicing, and ZoneAlarm never asked me whether CuraEngine should have the access it needed, so it got blocked.
Here are the steps I took to fix it:
1. Open ZoneAlarm
2. click the firewall tab
3. click where it says "X programs secured"
4. under "View Programs" you'll see a bunch of program names. It takes a while for my list to populate, you may have to wait a minute here.
5. Find the entry for cura.exe (you can order them by alpha) and set "Outbound Trusted" to Allow
6. Find the entry for "Slicing engine for Cura" (that's how CuraEngine.exe is listed). Set "Outbound Internet" to "Allow" and set "Inbound Trusted" to "Allow" (this will implicitly set "Outbound Trusted" to "Allow" as well).
7. Click "OK"
You should be good to go. I didn't even have to restart Cura. I just hit 'cancel' on that slice and then clicked 'slice' again and it worked.
From my testing, the settings in 5. and 6. are the minimum you can allow and still get it to work.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura
---
|
thread-7957
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7957
|
Gap between infill and walls for one filament only
|
2019-01-12T12:51:04.407
|
# Question
Title: Gap between infill and walls for one filament only
When I'm printing with my Chromatik filament white, 1.75 mm in diameter, I observe a gap between the infill and the walls (see picture).
Everywhere on the web I can find explanations for this kind of problem (apparently it's the symptom of loose belts), but I have this problem for **this filament only**. I have the filaments Chromatik electric blue and Octofiber black and I don't have this issue with them. I tried to increase the temperature by ~10 °C, but it didn't have much effect.
Have you ever seen that guys? I repeat, it's with **this filament only**.
# Answer
I have observed similar issues between walls, not necessarily between the infill and the walls.
It is most likely that the viscosity of this filament is way different (less fluid) than the other filaments you print. Not only mechanical issues (to be precise: inaccurate positioning e.g. caused by loose belts) could play a part in this, but also printing speed. A more viscous filament needs more pressure and time to get the filament through the nozzle. This is exactly what happened in my case, because of different wall speed line settings (inner and outer), the filament did not flow fast enough leading to under extrusion. In your case you probably also have a higher infill than wall speed, so lowering your infill speed may mitigate your problem. Also, most slicers have an option to define the overlap between the infill and the perimeters/walls, you could also increase that for this filament.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: filament, infill
---
|
thread-7950
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7950
|
Marlin 2.0 - set stepper drivers?
|
2019-01-11T16:04:26.323
|
# Question
Title: Marlin 2.0 - set stepper drivers?
I have an Anycubic Delta with a Trigorilla board. I have swapped out the A4988 drivers for DRV8825.
Currently, I am assuming it is using the A4988 drivers as the steppers are making a quiet growling noise. Kinda like a grating, coarse hum.
When I put the A4988 back in they are as smooth as always.
Where do I tell Marlin 2.0 that the assigned board has the DRV8825 drivers?
# Answer
In the configuration.h file of Marlin 2.0.x you can define which stepper driver type is used to drive the stepper in the `Stepper Drivers` section.
You can choose to use the following constants from the array to configure the correct driver:
```
['A4988', 'A5984', 'DRV8825', 'LV8729', 'L6470', 'TB6560', 'TB6600', 'TMC2100', 'TMC2130', 'TMC2130_STANDALONE', 'TMC2208', 'TMC2208_STANDALONE', 'TMC26X', 'TMC26X_STANDALONE', 'TMC2660', 'TMC2660_STANDALONE', 'TMC5130', 'TMC5130_STANDALONE']
```
And update the section that links the steppers to the stepper driver by updating the following section of the configuration.h file.
```
//#define X_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define Y_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//#define Z_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//...
//#define E0_DRIVER_TYPE A4988
//...
```
by removing the `//` in front of the driver specification and update the constant of the correct stepper driver:
```
#define X_DRIVER_TYPE DRV8825
#define Y_DRIVER_TYPE DRV8825
#define Z_DRIVER_TYPE DRV8825
//...
#define E0_DRIVER_TYPE DRV8825
//...
```
This results in the use of specific timings for the specific drivers. To be honest I have never set these constants when I used DRV8825 stepper drivers on my RUMBA board and my motors are operating smooth without these settings.
What you do need to look out for is when you replace stepper drivers is whether the micro stepping jumper settings on the board are correct for your stepper driver! I needed to set the jumper switches in a certain position to enable the 1/32 micro stepping functionality for the DRV8825 drivers. Knowing that the maximum micro step for the A4988 is 1/16, you also need to look out for the steps/mm; with more micro steps, you need twice as many steps per mm when you go from 1/16 to 1/32; e.g.:
```
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 4000, 500 }
```
would need to be changed to:
```
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 160, 160, 8000, 1000 }
```
Also, did you tune the new stepper drivers correctly? When you receive the stepper drivers, they are usually not tuned and the position of the potentiometer on the driver board is undefined! You need to calculate the correct $ V\_{ref} $ for your stepper driver in use for the specific stepper you have (max current that the stepper can handle). For DRV8825 stepper drivers, the maximum current is defined as:
$$ A\_{max} = V\_{ref} \times 2 $$
For example, if you have a stepper motor rated for 1.4 A, you limit the current to 1.4 A by setting the reference voltage ($ V\_{ref} $) to 0.7 V. More details are found here.
> 5 votes
---
Tags: marlin, stepper-driver
---
|
thread-7812
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7812
|
Can a 3D printer make a 3D printer?
|
2018-12-29T19:33:30.033
|
# Question
Title: Can a 3D printer make a 3D printer?
Could you use a 3D printer to make a 3D printer's parts? What is the most of a 3D printer that can be made this way? Could parts that break be replaced this way?
# Answer
Yes, you can print most of the parts (electronics, linear guide rails, ball bearings and nuts and bolts, etc cannot be printed). Actually this was exactly the purpose of RepRap.org:
> RepRap is humanity's first general-purpose self-replicating manufacturing machine.
and:
> Since many parts of RepRap are made from plastic and RepRap prints those parts, RepRap self-replicates by making a kit of itself - a kit that anyone can assemble given time and materials.
There have been attempts in the past to even replicate the frames of printers (e.g. Dollo 3D or Snappy, but such designs are not very successful, printed frames are more flexible than metal frames.
---
<sub>*I have built 2 custom printers myself using other printers to print parts and printed all printer parts for several others. It is possible to print your own linear bearings from POM, I prefer these over the noisy metal bearings.* </sub>
> 16 votes
# Answer
Yes, printers can print printer parts. With the right design, all non-metal/non-electronic parts can be printed on an FDM printer, and a laser-sintering based printer (SLS/DMLS) can even produce metal parts, as long as they fit the printbed. The fact, that a printer can create all the fastenings to build a new printer with just the electronics and linger extrusions/rods/rails is actually the core of the RepRap philosophy.
Some early printers, like the Mendel, did use just materials from home depot and printed joiners together with the electronics.
As a result, all joiners can be printed as replacements or improvements. There is a second limit though: Very small printers might not be able to print parts of the size needed to replicate the parts that they are made from. A common 200x200x200 mm printer can replicate almost all fasteners that comprise it, but the frame will have to be made from sheets of metal, wood, extrusions or rods and the movement system will need rails, rods or extrusions.
> 7 votes
# Answer
> Can a 3D printer make a 3D printer?
Not without a bunch of other parts
> Could you use a 3D printer to make 3D printers parts?
To some extent.
> What is the most of a 3D printer that can be built this way
Basically you you can't print the precision mechanical guides, you can't print the electronics, you can't print the parts that need to get hot, you can't print the motors, you can't print the lead-screws or toothed belts. Printing the whole main frame doesn't seem to be very practical either.
Afaict what you are left with is mostly printing the pieces that join all the functional elements of the printer together.
> 7 votes
# Answer
You can print some of it but not all, as 3d printers can't print metal or silicon to make the boards and frame.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: desktop-printer, replacement-parts, replicating-printers
---
|
thread-7965
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7965
|
Z-axes out of sync with Simplify3D
|
2019-01-13T21:55:11.213
|
# Question
Title: Z-axes out of sync with Simplify3D
I have a Robo 3D R1+, and I'm using the default Simplify3D profile for it. When I finish a print, I notice that my X gantry is way out of level. The right side is visibly higher than the left side. So much so that it won't even auto-level on the next print. What that tells me is during the print, the Right z-axis is moving up faster than the left. It also ruins the print.
I do not believe this is a hardware issue, as when I use the Craftware slicer, it works properly (I tried the same model with both slicers). Is there a setting or something I need to adjust in Simplify3D to get this to print properly?
If you would like to see the G-code for the CW and S3D models I was testing with, you can download them here:
G-code download (Google drive)
# Answer
What you are describing is not possible as a result of changing slicers, this must be an intermittent hardware issue.
The ***slicer has no knowledge of the hardware layout*** of your machine (other than the build volume and gantry dimensions; if properly configured), it just creates slices of the model you present which are found in the G-code file as Z movements. In case multiple Z steppers are used to move the X gantry, these are usually driven by a single driver, but if they are separately controlled, even in the G-code file the instruction would be to move up Z in total, not per stepper. It is the ***firmware of the 3D printer that translates this Z level in movement*** for your 3D printer based on the layout of the machine and the firmware settings.
The CraftWare G-code file does show some inconsistencies with respect to the Simplify3D file in that it does not use `G29` and has a too large first layer height of 0.45 mm (this is larger than you nozzle diameter of 0.40 mm, you should always limit that to about 75 % of your nozzle diameter).
For an X gantry to become unlevel/skew, there must be a mechanical issue that is causing it to miss steps/prevent advancing at one side. It is possible that one of the shafts or lead screws has some more friction than the other (generally it is not a good idea to grease the screws as dirt easily stick to the grease, a light oil may be better suited). This is not uncommon for Prusa i3 clones and is usually fixed by resettling the leadscrew nut by loosening and tightening the screws which attach the nut to the X gantry idler. It is unclear if this is your problem here with this specific machine.
To be fair, uneven displacement of any axis powered by 2 separate motors (driven by separate drivers) could be induced by the slicer when ***unrealistic*** high accelerations and incorrect hardware/electronic settings are employed.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: z-axis, simplify3d
---
|
thread-7482
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7482
|
Stuttering extrusion after layer change
|
2018-11-24T18:27:50.540
|
# Question
Title: Stuttering extrusion after layer change
I am currently encountering a problem where under certain circumstances, the extruder stutters when it starts a new layer. I am printing on an Anycubic i3 Mega and am slicing with Cura 3.6.0. The problem seems to occur in the main part of prints, as well as in supports. However it seems to only occur after a retraction has taken place. I have taken a video of the stuttering which can be found here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/G3TLKveMsLNRQmgv7 When a print is done the stuttering results in walls looking like this: Can anyone help me figure out what is causing the stuttering? Thank you very much!
# Answer
You retraction settings may be too high. Direct drive extruders require less retraction than Bowden style extruders. Typical retraction settings for direct drive are 1.5mm at 50mm/s and for Bowden, 4mm at 50mm/s. The speed usually makes more of a difference than distance beyond a certain point.
You can get away with smaller retraction settings if you increase travel speed because there will be less time to ooze. You could also try using Coasting as well.
Anyway, try reducing your retraction settings if they're higher than what I stated above. Another alternative is to set an extra prime distance so that extra filament is extruded after the retraction.
> 3 votes
# Answer
*Definition: **Sparse layer fill** (called stuttering by the OP)*
---
## Why a sparsely filled support structure... (at the support bottom)
Support structures are added by Ultimaker Cura as the first part of the layer before it progresses to the rest of the print object. The bottom part of the support structure is definitely showing under extrusion, as if there was not enough filament available to print the support solidly. Actually, that is exactly what is the problem, there is not enough filament available for printing as a result of a retraction and the following extrusion after movement of the filament. The bottom part of the support is most probably printed after ***the head stopped far from the support*** (end of the previous layer) while printing your object. This means that the filament needs to be retracted, the head moved to the support structure, filament extruded (de-retracted) and printing of the support structure starting. When retraction is not optimally tuned, the ***nozzle may not be primed correctly with filament and cause a sparsely printed support structure***. A similar reasoning could apply to support structures being printed at the final stage of the layer (as long as there are large movements to the support structure requiring the activation of the retraction).
## Why is the support better printed higher up...
You see that when Z advances above the thickness of the right part of the print, the support structure is better printed. This could be caused by the fact that the head now doesn't need to move far from the last position of the print to the support structure, this doesn't require a retraction action.
## What to do to print better support structures...
Try tune your retraction settings, see e.g. this answer shows an image of a calibration print to determine the optimal settings.
Note that you not only can play with the filament retraction settings (`Enable Retraction`, `Retraction Speed` and `Retraction Distance`), the option called `Enable Coasting` and `Coasting Volume` can also be used to stop extruding while the printer head prints the rest of the object to use the over-pressure of the molten filament in the nozzle and finally `Retraction Extra Prime Amount` can extrude some extra filament to prime the nozzle with some extra material so that the nozzle is optimally filled and ready for printing the support after the main print object. Also take care choosing the right `Support Speed`, too fast will result in lower quality.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, extrusion, retraction, anycubic-i3-mega
---
|
thread-7977
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7977
|
Marlin: Making any GPIO pin HIGH for a given time
|
2019-01-15T12:36:46.673
|
# Question
Title: Marlin: Making any GPIO pin HIGH for a given time
Is there any way Marlin Firmware supports G-code that can make a pin "high" and keep it at that state for a period of time specified?
I have made a machine, which runs on Marlin Firmware, that is a mould forming tool, that would make a mould into a powder, then another tool would come over this mould and dispense some liquid in it. I have a custom GUI to move the tools to given coordinates, press a mould, position the second tool over the mould.
For dispensing liquid I'm thinking about buying a diaphragm valve. I've downloaded the user manual for it. As per the documentation, when compressed air is given to valve it will lift diaphragm and will start dispensing. The amount of liquid it dispenses depends on the how long the valve is opened. So I'm thinking about using a relay to turn a solenoid valve `ON` and `OFF` to supply air to the valve. To turn the relay `ON` I need to make a certain GPIO pin "high". Is there any way I can do this in Marlin Firmware?
# Answer
As explained in the comments by Tom, you can set any port directly from G-code using the `M42` command. To set pin `22` "high", you need to call `M42 P22 S255`. There is no parameter to add time to the command, so you need to add that yourself using `G4` (dwell or pause) to specify how long the printer needs to wait for the next instruction, e.g.:
```
M42 P22 S255 ; Activate solenoid/relay
G4 P2000 ; Dwell/pause for 2000 milliseconds (2 seconds)
M42 P22 S0 ; Deactivate solenoid/relay
```
As an alternative, you could use the existing fan if that fan is unused in your machine (or add an "extra fan" in the firmware and send the value 255 to that fan). To use the existing fan:
```
M106 S255 ; Activate solenoid/relay
G4 P2000 ; Dwell/pause for 2000 milliseconds (2 seconds)
M107 ; Deactivate solenoid/relay
```
How you add an extra fan is already described (for a specific RAMPS board) in this answer. However, the answer is valid for other boards as well, as long as you have exposed pins you have access to (or if you can solder directly to open pins), you can use the described technique.
The G-code to activate the "extra fan" (solenoid) is `M106 P1 S255` disabling would be `M107 P1`. Note that there is an option/parameter to add time (`Bnnn` Blip time - fan will be run at full PWM for this number of seconds when started from standstill) to the `M106` command, but that is only implemented in RepRapFirmware. An alternative is to use `G4` (dwell or pause) to specify how long the printer needs to wait for the next instruction (`M107`) is being parsed, e.g.:
```
M106 P1 S255 ; Activate solenoid/relay
G4 P2000 ; Dwell/pause for 2000 milliseconds (2 seconds)
M107 P1 ; Deactivate solenoid/relay
```
> 3 votes
---
Tags: marlin, g-code
---
|
thread-7979
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7979
|
Extruder get loose
|
2019-01-15T18:45:45.133
|
# Question
Title: Extruder get loose
**Printer:** Anet A6
I'm gaving some trouble with a loose hot end. I was trying to peel of some PLA when I noticed the whole thing was kinda loose. I could pull it out very easy.
So I tried to put it back, but it's verry loose and I don't know what exactly is wrong.
I'm not sure if I broke something, or doing something wrong. Does anyone know how to fix this or do I need a new extruder or hot-end?
Kind regards.
# Update:
As Trish said in the accepted answer, the heatbreak is broken. When I've opened the extruder it became more clear:
I'm happy cause this is a fix for about 10 euro.
# Answer
> 4 votes
I am sorry to inform you, but your picture looks like your hotend has a broken heatbreak. The heatbreak is the screw that connects the heater block with he coldend.
Your first picture clearly shows that the tp 2 or 3 windings of the screw are ripped off. Probably from tightening the nut against the codend carriage and this way applying tremendous force - the lower picture hints that it was tightened far too strong.
You are lucky however, as replacement heatbreaks are easy to come by and cheap.
---
Tags: pla, hotend, anet-a6
---
|
thread-7971
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7971
|
How Do Tool Path Algorithms Decide Which Direction to Print a Closed-Loop Polygon
|
2019-01-14T22:05:04.537
|
# Question
Title: How Do Tool Path Algorithms Decide Which Direction to Print a Closed-Loop Polygon
I understand how slicer programs create sets of closed-loop polygons to print on a layer-by-layer basis. For a given closed loop polygon which needs to be printed, the tool path generator will know the coordinates and how those coordinates are connected to each other, such that traversing a set of segments in that order will bring the extruder head back to the first coordinate to complete the closed loop.
My question is: By what mechanism does the tool path generator decide which direction to traverse the closed loop? As it is a loop, that loop could be printed "clockwise" or "counter-clockwise", as it were. Any details, and links to further explanations of how some of the big-name slicer programs determine this is much appreciated.
# Answer
While this answer makes a valid attempt at answering the question, it is based on personal experience.
I went to the literature and directly to the source code in Cura to find the answer. In the academic article "Identifying the Directions of a Set of 2D Contours for Additive Manufacturing Process Planning", Volpato et al. describe several methods for identifying the arbitrary directions of each contour in each layer, and additionally identifying which contours were "internal" and which were "external". I quote from the paper:
> The information regarding contour direction, which is either clockwise (CW — internal) or counterclockwise (CCW — external), is needed for path planning for material processing.
They go on to explain the importance of identifying which contours are external, and which are internal, such that the path planning algorithm can later determine where infill should be placed. Infill is placed internal to any external contours, and external to any internal contours.
> When the normal vectors in STL models are assumed to be correct, a simple way to identify whether a 2D contour is CW or CCW is to analyze the vector (cross) product between a normal vector and a vector obtained from two vertices of the facet.
This assumes the slicer has already determined intersection points between slicing planes and the STL file, and has sorted those intersection points into closed-contours. This initial intersection point gathering and contour construction leads to an arbitrary directionality:
> As any line segment of a contour can be the first in the sequence when the segments are connected, its orientation will dictate the direction of the contour. Hence, the 2D contours formed are classified randomly, and an external contour, for example, might be assigned a CW or CCW direction. Therefore, this step is unable to correctly identify the directions of the contours generated.
>
> The ray-tracing method, which is actually based on the point-in-polygon test, determines which contours are contained by others, and the orientation of each contour is then alternated between CCW and CW, the outermost contours being oriented CCW.
So, the default directionality of a closed contour generated by a slicing program for FDM additive manufacturing turns out to be CCW based on cross products described above (and based on additional methods outlined in the paper). Of course the standard directionality of a PRINTED contour does not HAVE to be this way, it appears to be a standard adopted by the AM community. However, when a model produces contours inside of contours, the arbitrary directionality of those contours is determined, and then alternated from outside to inside, starting with CCW.
As confirmation, according to a simple comment in the CURA source code:
```
/*!
* Outer polygons should be counter-clockwise,
* inner hole polygons should be clockwise.
* (When negative X is to the left and negative Y is downward.)
*/
```
> 6 votes
# Answer
## Math
In math, there is a way how a path is to be followed, and that is usually counterclockwise:
Assuming a perimeter path of a circle with $r=1$ around $(2,2)$, then the path can be defined as $f(p)={{\cos(p)+2}\choose{\sin(p)+2}}$ \- where $p$ is the path parameter, in this case an angle of 0 to 360°, and just increasing the angle rotates right hand around. If we had the same path but a different starting point, a shift by $\theta$, then the path would read $f(p)={{\cos(p+\theta)+2}\choose{\sin(p+\theta)+2}}$. So math is usually *counterclockwise*.
## Slicers
Every slicer is applying math. As far as I can tell, any Slicer generates a perimeter path, which is always performed in the same way if sliced with the same settings. For one case look at this: Counterclockwise starting from a 7 o clock position in this case. However, other slicers or other objects on the printbed might use other engines, thus doing it not that way. They might go clockwise since solving a path with $p=0°\to360°$ and solving it $p=360°\to0°$ results in producing the exact same print, just opposed print direction of the perimeter.
As long as the perimeter of an object is solved as being done as one closed loop, the perimeter will need to have just one, prescribed direction. This direction will be clockwise or counterclockwise depending on how the slicer exactly solves its calculations. Since both directions are equally valid, it is a programmer's decision. A programmer might even prescribe clockwise or counterclockwise solution based on any factor they wanted. They might use layer number (for alternating directions) or a user setting or even an RNG, if they wanted to.
On the other hand, how the memory is operated and written can also result in the path and the math looking differently. Two examples:
* Solving the path correctly counterclockwise and putting the slicing into a FILO memory, resulting in a clockwise operation starting from the last solved point.
* Solving counterclockwise and saving into FIFO, running counterclockwise.
## Conclusion
Slicers for 3D printing have a hard-coded way to choose the direction that is followed when producing G-code. Any and all perimeters will be printed, starting from some arbitrary point, into that direction. In the end, it is a choice of the *programmer* of the slicing engine that determines if the path is to be run down "forward" or "backward" in mathematical sense.
## Addendum
Slicers are derived from CAM programming. CAM - computer assisted machining - takes into account one more thing when solving the tool path that is not relevant to a 3D printer: The direction of the fluting of the tool. In fact, this one will determine into which direction the path will give a better cut and changing the fluting should swap the path direction to ensure best results.
> 4 votes
---
Tags: slicing
---
|
thread-7975
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7975
|
How to change temperature every 25 layers (or 5 mm) in Ultimaker Cura or G-code?
|
2019-01-15T03:24:32.830
|
# Question
Title: How to change temperature every 25 layers (or 5 mm) in Ultimaker Cura or G-code?
I want to print this heat tower calibration test.
The instructions say to change the temperature every 25 layers. It also tells me to use G-Code command `M104 Sxxx`
First, is there a way to specify this command using Ultimaker Cura?
If not, how do I do so in the G-code file?
I see that the G-code file is just a plain text file with a command per line presumably. Do I just insert `M104 S225` at one point and then `M104 S220`...? If so, how do I know where the 25th layer is?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Every time you see a Z movement that matches the layer height (eg. 0.20 mm) you can assume that is the end/start of one "layer". It should have a line like:
```
;Layer count: 17
;LAYER:0. ; mine has this as the first layer
M107
G0 F2400 X67.175 Y61.730 Z0.250. ; moves to Z0.250 mm for the first layer, with layer thickness 0.25 mm
```
Then later:
```
;LAYER:1
M106 S255
G0 F2400 X78.078 Y69.627 Z0.550 ; 2nd layer.
```
So search for "Z" or "Layer" and once you've seen 25 of these "small" movements (comparing to previous Z movement?), insert your line of code at the end of the layer commands. Don't confuse it with large Z-movements, that may correspond to move up/retract filaments. Depending on your goals for the print, maybe you also want to insert a wait time - say a minute or two for the new temp to stabilize? Here is the line for that:
```
G4 P200 ; Sit still doing nothing for 200 milliseconds.
```
# Answer
> 2 votes
Under the Extensions menu in Ultimaker Cura, there's an option to add post-processing scripts. One of these is called TweakAtZ, and it allows you to override certain print settings when the printer reaches a certain Z height. Multiple overrides can be specified for different heights.
TweakAtZ has been bundled with the standard Ultimaker Cura download for some time, but if your version doesn't have it, you can download it from GitHub.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, g-code, calibration
---
|
thread-7982
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7982
|
Why won't my filament feed through the extruder anymore?
|
2019-01-15T19:39:01.503
|
# Question
Title: Why won't my filament feed through the extruder anymore?
Printer: Monoprice Select V2.
I've done several prints already and swapped out filaments many times but in my most recent swap, I can't feed my PLA through any more.
I first preheat my extruder for PLA temps (185 °C). Then I press the plastic thingy to allow me to push as much of the filament into the hole as possible. Then I adjust my extruder position to try to suck it in. Usually after a few mm, I start to see the filament come out of the extruder and I also feel a pull on the filament from the top. But nothing is happening now.
However, if I adjust the extruder position in the opposite direction, it eventually pushes the filament back up and out, so I guess the "stepper motor" (is that what it's called?) is working (at least in one direction).
I'm getting ready to open the extruder module up to see what's going on, but wanted to see if anyone had any simple ideas for me to try before I unscrew anything.
# Answer
I figured out the issue. I think I was shoving it in the wrong hole.
I took apart my extruder component. There's a good video on it here. But basically, you just have to loosen the two bottom screws on the side fan like this:
I checked everything out first. I cleaned the extruder head with the included pin. I also shoved the filament through the heated area and filament came out ok.
But then I discovered the filament could go in the wrong way sometimes through the extruder.
This is the correct way for the filament to go through. It should come out of that plastic hole.
But once in awhile, I accidentally pushed the filament through this way.
If the filament was bent and I pushed the lever too hard, it would often find its way down the wrong path. So I played around with how much force I should be holding down the lever and how hard I should be pushing the filament through.
I don't know if other 3D printer extruder feeders are designed this way, but seems error prone. Or maybe it's just me.
> 6 votes
# Answer
Maybe some PLA is stuck in the throat above the heat break. Can you feed a very small wire all the way through it, or see light through the filament path?
185 is a little on the cold side. I would suggest trying to feed at 195 before taking more drastic measures.
> 0 votes
# Answer
Try turning the temperature up to 260 °C and pushing it through.
Also, cut of a few centimetres for I'm the end of the PLA in case the drive wheel isn't able to grab it due to a greasy bit of filament.
If you get it all working, run cleaning filament throughout it and to a cold pull with it. That removed an annoying but of grit from my Monoprice.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: extruder, change-filament, monoprice-maker-select
---
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thread-714
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/714
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What are the appropriate ranges of gear ratios for 1.75 mm and 3 mm filament extruders?
|
2016-03-08T19:54:06.207
|
# Question
Title: What are the appropriate ranges of gear ratios for 1.75 mm and 3 mm filament extruders?
Most 3 mm (mostly are actually 2.85 mm) filament extruders have some kind of gear reduction. Many 1.75 mm extruders are direct-drive / ungeared but some do use gears. What kind of reduction ratios are suitable or optimal?
# Answer
$ \frac{(2.85\ mm)^2}{(1.75\ mm)^2}=2.65$ which is the reduction you would want assuming a 1.75 is direct drive.
In this answer I am comparing the amount of filament flowing though the extruder by using $ \pi \times r^2$. Dividing the 2 values gives the ratio of the 2 speeds. A gear ratio is them used to change the speed.
> 2 votes
# Answer
This basically **depends on the torque your stepper can produce**! A high torque stepper *(the bigger the height of the stepper the more powerful the stepper)* can push filament with much more force than a stepper motor with less torque. To increase the torque you employ a gear ratio to reduce the speed. As torque and speed are inversely proportional, a reduction by half in speed doubles the torque.
If your stepper is powerful enough, you can use a direct drive (no gearing) to push the filament. However if you want that same stepper to move filament of larger diameter, you might not have enough torque to do so. This means that you will have to increase the torque by employing a gear reduction. Using direct drive extruders thus require high torque, and thus high mass stepper motors, this causes the mass of the hotend carriage to increase considerably. Using stepper motors with less torque (often called pancake steppers because of their reduced height) for such applications is often seen together with a gear reduction. A drawback of reducing speed is that you also decrease the maximum print speed ability or max speed filament retraction speed. To reduce the speed you can use a gear reduction using gears or use pulleys and belts. A major advantage of a belt reduction is that it operates without much less noise than using gears.
Let us assume that you have a stepper that is powerful enough and want to extrude thicker diameter filament. The following guideline can be used to calculate the gear ratio. Also if you express the value in an actual torque, you could work your way back to calculate the gear reduction for a pancake stepper you would use to replace your current X-value torque motor, that is left as an exercise.
### From 1.75 mm to 2.85 mm
Under the assumption that the force that the nozzle exerts on the build plate ($F\_n$) is constant for different types of filament size, you would be able to calculate the ratio of force for the extruder ($F\_{e}$) and nozzle of any filament diameter using the pressure in the nozzle using:
$$ p=\frac{F}{A} $$
Where, $p$ is the pressure, $F$ the force and $A$ the area.
$$ p =\frac{F\_e}{A\_e} = \frac{F\_n}{A\_n} \\ F\_n=F\_e\frac{A\_e}{A\_n}=F\_{e\_{1.75}}\frac{\frac{1}{4}\ \pi\ d\_{1.75}^2}{\frac{1}{4}\ \pi\ d\_{n}^2} = F\_{e\_{2.85}}\frac{\frac{1}{4}\ \pi\ d\_{2.85}^2}{\frac{1}{4}\ \pi\ d\_{n}^2} $$
Where $d$ denotes a diameter of the nozzle or the filament. Subscripts $e$ and $n$ denote the extruder and the nozzle respectively.
Note that the force that is generated by the extruder is derived from the stepper torque $\tau$ directly, or through a geared drive (gearing ratio $R\_{gear}$ ):
$$ \tau\_{e} = R\_{gear}\times\tau\_{stepper} $$ Note, a gear ratio of 1 denotes direct drive.
The force would then be calculated by dividing the torque by the radius ($r$) of the extruder gear:
$$ F=\frac{\tau\_e}{r} $$
Combining equations gives us:
$$ \begin{align\*} &1.75\ {filament}\ \Rightarrow F\_n=\left (\frac{1\times\tau\_{stepper}}{r\_{e\_{1.75}}}\right )\frac{d\_{1.75}^2}{d\_{n}^2} \\ &2.85\ {filament}\ \Rightarrow F\_n=\left (\frac{R\_{gear}\times\tau\_{stepper}}{r\_{e\_{2.85}}}\right )\frac{d\_{2.85}^2}{d\_{n}^2} \end{align\*} $$
Which can be rewritten to:
$$ R\_{gear} = \frac{d\_{1.75}^2}{d\_{n}^2} \times \frac{d\_{n}^2}{d\_{2.85}^2} \times \frac{r\_{e\_{2.85}}}{r\_{e\_{1.75}}} $$
Note that each $d\_{n}^2$ is applicable to the nozzle size of the extruder. Hence, for similar nozzle sizes, the $d\_{n}^2$ term cancels out: $$ R\_{gear} = \frac{d\_{1.75}^2}{d\_{2.85}^2} \times \frac{r\_{e\_{2.85}}}{r\_{e\_{1.75}}} $$
This means that if you go from 1.75 mm to 2.85 mm filament, for the exact same extruder gear radius (which is not likely as you probably need a different extruder gear/hobbed bolt that can accommodate the larger diameter filament), the gear ratio is $1:2.65$ and therefore you need to reduce the speed accordingly.
The reason that you see different gearing ratios can not only be explained by differences in the extruder gear/hobbed bolt diameter differences, but also in stepper torque values.
For 3 mm filament the ratio will be in the order of $1:2.94$ for equivalent extruder gear radii and reuse of the same stepper.
A similar calculation shows that for a 0.2 mm nozzle on a 2.85 mm filament extruder a gearing ratio of $ 1:5.3$ is required. This "extra room" for extra torque to fit smaller nozzles also explain the larger gear reductions. What is optimal is not only defined by the nozzle size and filament diameter but very dependent on the stepper motor and the torque it can produce. Gear reductions should be limited so that they do not minimize overall print speed or cause problems with retraction (this latter I experienced myself, a too high retraction speed caused the stepper to miss steps on my custom designed 1.75 mm to 2.85 mm bulldog extruder conversion. I'm using a $1:4$ speed reduction to produce enough torque with a stepper that is normally used for direct drive (of 1.75 mm filament). Note that within the aluminium bulldog housing, a different sized extruder gear is used to accommodate the larger diameter filament:
> 2 votes
---
Tags: filament, extruder, printer-building, fdm, drive-gear
---
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thread-4307
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4307
|
Building a 3-D printer
|
2017-06-29T20:10:08.590
|
# Question
Title: Building a 3-D printer
Building a 3-D printer is obviously a huge undertaking.
Does anyone know of any reasonably cheap guides to build my own 3-D printer?
# Answer
Building a 3-D printer is actually very easy, assuming that you are electronically and mechanically competent, and there are a whole bunch of websites devoted to doing just that. The principal of which would be the RepRapWiki.
There are a number of different designs, mostly from a few basic designs:
* Cartesian
* Delta
* Polar
* Scara
Take a look at 3D Printers Explained: Delta, Cartesian, Polar, Scara, for further details.
I, personally, would suggest looking at the following 3D printer designs (although there are many more out there):
On the web, i.e. eBay/Amazon, there are plenty of ready assembled versions, DIY kits, or you can source all of the individual parts yourself. I seriously recommend reading this question What are the pros and cons of collecting parts yourself, versus getting a DIY kit and then modifying it?
I would strongly suggest that you do a *lot* of googling, and read around the subject for a couple of weeks:
* Reading other peoples blogs;
* Watching construction videos on YouTube to get a better understanding, and;
* Going through the issues that other people have experienced whilst building there own printers
Doing this will help you glean a greater understanding of what is required, and what to expect when building yours - as well as getting an understanding of the individual parts required and how they all fit together.
Spending a fair bit of time on this site, SE 3D Printing, and slowly going through the questions and answers is also strongly recommended.
Building your own printer is, ultimately, more rewarding that purchasing a ready built one. This is because, due to its nascent nature of 3D printing, the printer that you purchase *will*, most likely, go wrong, and you will need to fix it. If you have built it yourself then you *should* be able to easily understand what is wrong, and then be capable of repairing it yourself. It is somewhat similar to the situation when the automobile first became popular, back in the 20's/30's (?) - the driver was, usually, also a mechanically competent engineer (unless they were filthy rich and were able to afford to pay a dedicated mechanic to accompany them - which was also the case, in those days).
> 6 votes
# Answer
If you just want to build your own, get a kit. There are several out there. Most kits take from 1-5 days to complete depending on the kit.
If you want to design your own is quite a different story. The effort is totally dependent on how much you want to do yourself. My guess is the statement that you don't know the amount of effort indicates that you are probably not ready to design your own.
> 3 votes
# Answer
Have you built a 3D printer before, or have much experience in electronics? Building your own printer is *usually* more expensive than purchasing a higher end low-grade consumer printer.
There are a few routes you can go.
**Creality Ender 3** It's a good starting 3D printer around 200ish. Just going to throw that out there first - as that is probably a far better route to think about when thinking about cost. It's decent out of the box. Mix it with Amazon Basics filament (roughly 20 a roll), cheap chinese filament (roughly 10-15 a roll), or if you live near a microcenter - Inland Filament (roughly 15 a roll) and you're set with minimal effort.
Now... to answer your question - what TYPE of printer?
FDM: That the plastic in the rolls - and by far the cheapest type of 3D printer (and the most common)
SLA: That's the Resin Printers. This is far better quality (normally), but much harder to use, not really for those just getting into 3D printing. They are also far more costly. If you have the ability - this is the ones that start getting cheaper to make - but making a large resin printer is not easy at all.
Bio Printers: I do not suggest making this. In fact, you probably can't even easily buy them. From your scope of what you are looking for - doesn't seem much like what you want either. This is the type to make molds for cataracts, organs, other medical needs.
There are other various types of 3D printers, a lot of them actually, but these are three big ones. As I said, I'm going into a general overlook - if you want more info, I'd be glad to give you more in any of the topics.
---
## SLA / DLP (both very similar)
I'm going to assume you want to look between either SLA or FDM. SLA (Resin) can be extremely pricey, and the resin even moreso. They work by curing Resin via light.
The -cheapest- way to build an SLA printer is by a projector! If you happen to have one already, then this route can cost you 20ish +-, not including Resin.
What you need: Projector(50-100+ or free), old DVD drive/ cd drive from a pc (5 from goodwill, free for most people who have old systems laying around), Nema 17 Motor(brand new 15ish - shopping around ebay I have gotten 5 for 15 before), Threaded rod (home depot - 3-5), Arduino (10ish), a glass vat (dollar store), and some form of a base - either a cleaned off blank circuit board - pegboard, or a few various other things that can be used, various screws, mounts, belts ect. You also need resin. Monoprice has some of the better priced resins at like 40-50 per vile. Amazon has some cheaper ones too. As you can see, the price is already starting to go up.
Making a SLA printer, the basic idea is that you are hooking up the projector to be controlled by the Arduino. The Arduino you are loading open source (freely available code online) for SLA printers. The Arduino will control the projector itself, using the light to cure the resin as the build plate moves. The threaded rod you attach to the Nema 17 motor to move the build plate up and down. The plate will need to dunk the bottom side into the glass vat - the projector actually cures your print upside down - connecting to the build plate! As the build plate moves up, it will pull your print up with it to. After building, you will need to finish curing your print - you take it and cure it in UV light, or just set it outside in sunlight for a few hours. SLA can get some super high quality prints.
Check out this tutorial. http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2768
---
## FDM
This is the type I'm assuming you are thinking about - the type where the extruder (print head) moves, and the build plate sometimes moves, and is sometimes heated. You print with rolls of plastic.
There are a lot of open source designs out there, one of the most popular designs is the i3 style. This is the style of the Ender 3 that I recommended above. It might not be the -best- design, but it is certainly popular! The "best" is highly subjective though.
For this, you need to have some sort of building material. You can use anything from Legos, plywood, plexiglass, metal, ect. Although you can use just about anything to build with, metal via 2020 rods (50ish+) are going to be some of your better, more stable options. You need a build plate. You can go cheap and use an unheated metal plate, mirror, glass, table... really anything flat - plus the addition of some blue painters tape for adhesion. You need some way to have endstops - either endstop switches - which cost a few bucks a piece (let's say 10 for 4 switches), you will need a good handful of screws, bolts, nuts, t-slot nuts, brackets - you get the picture. This can be cheap to pricey quick. (let's say 20ish for random number). You will need (if building i3 style) two threaded rods (10) or if you are going xyz style 4 (20). You will need Nema 17 motors - i3 style 3-4 motors(15-80) - xyz 2-5 motors (10-100), an arduino board (can go cheap from 20 all the way to amazing boards such as the duet wifi 2 which is around 200), a PSU (get a good one here 12v at least 40amps - switchable psu), you need some mosfet boards 1 for your extruder and one for your bed if you are using a heated buildplate. Speaking of heated buildplates, if you use one don't make your own. It's safer to buy one and they can run cheap. You will also need a lot of wire, solder, shrink wrap... I'm sure you're getting the picture on that there. Basic microcontroller and electronics work tools and accessory parts there including various sensors and whatnot of the like. Extruder gear, you can build your own - but until you are really familiar with it, just go buy one. You can pick up an entire extruder assembly, off brand knock off for around 20.
The probably hands down best way to learn to build your own 3D printer is to get your hands dirty with a pre-built or a kit, start taking it apart, and really learning how they work rather than just following a guide to build your own. There is so many resources out there that are only 'half complete' or 'half correct' that without foundation knowledge - it becomes pretty easy to burn your house down. Not to mention, building your own is almost always more expensive than a kit.
> 2 votes
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Tags: diy-3d-printer, printer-building
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thread-7992
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7992
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Filament extrusion always stops at some point during print
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2019-01-16T13:39:33.697
|
# Question
Title: Filament extrusion always stops at some point during print
I own a Creality CR-10 (using Ultimaker Cura for slicing) and I am experiencing terrible printing problems.
My problem: I am not able to print anything that takes several hours to print. For parts printed in 30 minutes or so, my printer usually works.
The prints end up like this (unfinished and with a lot of stringing)
This below is actually the best result I got so far.. (important note: there is no under extrusion during the print, it suddenly stops out of nowhere..) (Although I have to use terrible retraction settings and need a lot of post processing because of all the stringing - you might have an answer for that too.. I just couldnt get the 3d printer to print parts properly with good retraction settings.)
**The problem is that at some point of the print, no more (PLA) material is extruded and the printer moves without actually printing anything. The first couple of layers usually work (you can see that in the images) but after wasting almost 600 grams of PLA, I am not able to find a solution myself.**
.
**I have some suspicions:**
Could the problem be the angle, the PLA is inserted into the feeder? (so that it is almost a 90 degree bend)? The filament comes from a spool in the right hand side. But I dont think that this would cause such a problem..
Is it a software problem? Here are all my cura settings (I even reduced the printing speed to 30mm/s at 205°C - still didnt work..) :-(
Could the length of the bowden tube and it tangling up be a problem? (as you can see in the image below)
**And annother important thing: The feeder always grinds into the filament (even at those low retraction settings) and it is always very hard to pull the filament out of the bowden after a failed print. Sometimes its almost impossible and i have to use heavy tools for it.. that should be the probelem**
I already did some atomic pulls, replaced the nozzle and switched the bowden tube.
**I have a dream: My printer printing a part without any stringing and actually finishing the print. Please help me to achieve this dream..**
Thank you for your help in advance. :)
(and the filament I used, sorry for the bad quality of the pic)
# Answer
> 2 votes
I've had a similar issue once. It was caused by very slight misconfiguration in filament feed rate (my printer tried to push through too much filament). While it was technically overextruding, I didn't realize that until I measured my extrusion lengths. Overextrusion could also contribute to stringing.
When you pull out the filament from your extruder after a print failure, does it have a thicker end? If so, it could be a sign of trying to push too much filament.
On the left is the filament I pulled from the extruder after a normal print - you can see it only gets thinner and has a long end. In the middle is a very pathological case - that shouldn't happen unless something is very wrong. On the right is how the filament was when I had my extruder feed rate misconfigured - you can see the dents from gear biting too hard into it, and a slight bulge.
What I think happened in my case, is that filament gets melted in the hotend, some of it gets pushed through the nozzle, the excess wells up into the heatbreak, where it solidifies and bonds to walls, causing blockage and difficulties pulling it out.
As to how to fix it (if it's indeed the cause) - if you configured printer's firmware yourself, **you may need to tweak steps/mm for the extruder**. It looks like your printer runs Marlin firmware, which allows you to configure steps/mm from your LCD. You could also use PC software such as Pronterface to connect to your printer and tweak steps/mm parameters (alongside with other things). Here's a guide for checking and adjusting extruder steps/mm value. Though thick marker lines are not the best for measurement.
You can also measure how much filament exits your bowden tube with calipers when you move it from printer LCD.
If you don't want to mess around with firmware and steps/mm settings, you can **adjust flow rate** in Cura, although in that case you'll have to experiment with it and waste even more filament. I'd advise you to check for other possible issues first.
As the other answer has said, this could be caused by temperature creep too, with similar symptoms - filament melting in the heatbreak.
A long and bendy bowden tube could cause issues, but I'd expect underextrusion+grinding from that, whereas you don't see any underextrusion. Just to be sure, you could try pushing filament by hand (with other hand holding the lever on your extruder to release the filament) - it shouldn't take much force to move it all the way to extruder, and it shouldn't take much force to push it through the hotend either.
Yet another thing to check is whether your **filament gets dented by the extruder gear** during normal print. Just insert it until the hotend without holding the lever on extruder and pull it out - it should be as smooth and round as it was before insertion. If it has dents from the extruder gear, that could also be the source of your problems. In that case, you'll need to reduce tension on your extruder spring, or if it's non-adjustable, then get another spring or shorten the existing one.
As the last thing to check, does this happen with other filaments, especially single-color ones? Maybe this particular filament doesn't play nice with your hotend because of those black dot inclusions.
So, **short list of things to check**:
1. Check extruder steps/mm
2. Check force on pushing filament through bowden tube (by hand)
3. Check extruder gear tension
4. Try another filament
# Answer
> 5 votes
**Stringing?**
The stringing is explained by your relatively low retraction settings, 1.5 mm is not much for a Bowden setup. As do too high printing temperatures.
**Stopping mid printing?**
What you are experiencing is called clogging, the extruder cannot push the filament through the hotend and cause the grinding you report. Clogging mid printing is usually caused by insufficient cooling (for the temperature you print at) of the cold end (causing heat creep; slowly increasing temperature of the heat break), especially all-metal hotend assemblies are notoriously known for this problem.
Your Bowden tube does make a lot of kinks, maybe you can improve the path of the Bowden tube. Also if you are concerned about the sharp filament intake angle, you could print a filament guide:
# Answer
> -2 votes
I had the same thing! On my anycubic I3 mega.
Tried a lot of stuff and got so sick of it so I installed a 10:1 gearbox on my extruder motor. So now it provides 10x more torque and since I havent got the issue anymore where the extruder is just grinding on the filament and the motor is just skipping steps.
No because of this and because my anycubic won't connect to a pc I can't change settings on my printer so I resolve the ratio with 1000% flow in my cura settings. And other stuff is also affected.
But at least it won't stop and just be sitting there and skipping steps.
---
Tags: print-quality, filament, pla, creality-cr-10
---
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thread-3065
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3065
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Z-axis steppers and bed alignment problems
|
2016-11-21T10:47:13.383
|
# Question
Title: Z-axis steppers and bed alignment problems
I've actually solved this, but I think its still a useful question which I don't think is easy to answer with existing questions.
As soon as I'd built my ANET-A8 (Prusa i3 DIY kit), I found I was having problems with the extruder crashing into the bed. Although I thought I'd adjusted the bed leveling OK, the calibration seemed to keep getting messed up.
I tracked this down to two factors. First, I was winding the extruder head up some distance before loading the filament and starting a print. Second, at roughly half-way up the axis, the right-hand thread seemed to be getting stuck (more often when moving up than down).
What wasn't clear (and not mentioned in the building instructions) was what might cause this problem.
# Answer
So after reading the instructions more carefully, ANET do cover this in their operating instructions under **troubleshooting**. On closer inspection, I realised that the brass nut following the right hand thread seemed to be out of alignment with the stepper at the bottom. Fiddling with the flexible coupling helped a bit, but what I needed to do was place the assembly at the tight point, slacken the 3 bolts marked `SHCS` in the diagram, then tighten them again. I was expecting I might need to open out the holes, or re-make the white (factory printed) part, but this wasn't necessary.
> 3 votes
# Answer
I assume you did everything according to the instructions but here is a checklist of what could be possibly wrong:
1. Friction - check if you can rotate/move parts without lot of resistance
2. Screws - check if screws on couplings are tight and they don't slide over a shaft or thread
3. Stepsticks - check if they are cooled properly and similar (as there are two of them)
4. Carriage nuts on threads - check if they do not slide out of their nests while \[the x-axis\] carriage goes up
5. Filament - check if filament unrolls without resistance which can eventually cause \[the x-axis\] carriage to hang.
IMO #2 and #3 are the most possible cause
> 6 votes
# Answer
From http://3daddict.com/anet-3d-printer-common-mistakes-fix/
The motor shaft and the threading rod must have space between them in the flexible coupler.
That means unlocking the coupler from the motor shaft and moving it up a bit, in the end the threaded rod nearly touches the printer top hole instead of having like a 1cm gap. This will allow the coupler to flex, and thus should handle small misalignments of the brass nut.
That's about point 2 of @darth-pixel answer, but before locking the screws, make sure to have empty space between rod and motor shaft
> 0 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3, z-axis
---
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thread-5585
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5585
|
Finding a reputable seller for CR-10S
|
2018-03-04T03:47:46.307
|
# Question
Title: Finding a reputable seller for CR-10S
After doing a lot of research, I've decided I want to purchase a Creality CR-10S as my first 3D printer. I'm trying to locate a reputable, local seller. Other than Amazon, which seems to have a bit of a mark-up on price, I'm finding several websites that seem to be located outside of the US. Can anyone direct me to a seller located in the US?
# Answer
I’ve bought two printers (CR-10S and Ender 2)from Tiny Machines in Houston Texas. They unbox them from China and assemble them and make a test print. You get a checklist of the tests performed. They will also flash a bootloader and updated Marlin for $10.
Yeah, you’ll pay more but if you spend any time in printer forums you’ll hear lots of complaining about missing/broken parts or DOA units.
They also stock spare parts here in the US.
Good luck to you!
> 2 votes
# Answer
I am afraid unless you are available to accept the mark-up, you won't find a *reputable seller* other than in mainland China. The entire business model of Creality is "cheap-cheap-cheap B2C" and any step you add to the supply chain (like a reseller) will be:
* **An added cost** that will be reflected on the final price you pay
* **A reseller-based initiative**, meaning that it won't be part of a "creality global distribution network", but the project of that local entreprenour.
That said, I read in a couple of places that **tiny machines (Houston, Texas)** does a good job by testing each unit prior to shipping, and has similar lead times than good sellers from China (a couple of weeks).
Please note I am not affiliated with them in any way. For that matters, I don't even leave in North America nor have purchased anything from them.
> 1 votes
# Answer
My friend found an Ender 3, basically the same thing as a cr-10, at Best Buy. I wouldn't be surprised if you came across a cr-10s there as well. Keep in mind if you are going to buy one, to also get a warranty as printers can come damaged and break later. It is better to be safe rather than sorry.
> 0 votes
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Tags: creality-cr-10
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thread-7645
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7645
|
Scratches in the build plate - How did this happen, and may it cause problems?
|
2018-12-14T14:52:34.647
|
# Question
Title: Scratches in the build plate - How did this happen, and may it cause problems?
A couple of prints after leveling the bed (\<10), I noticed some weird sound, and saw the nozzle scratching the build-plate. What is really weird, is that I noticed (My printer is in quite a dark edge, so the build plate isn't really illuminated), that there were some scratches from a print before, but it worked fine with the prints in between. So my question is, how that might have happened, could it be also software issues (Maybe some mistakes converting to gcode?), or is this propably purely a mechanical issue? Furthermore, I'd like to ask whether this may cause any problems, e.g. massively reducing print quality, or weakening the grip of the prints.
I'm using the Tevo Michelangelo 3D, with manual leveling (it drives to the positions, but one has to tighten/loose the screws). Note that I might have overtightened the screws in the beginning. Another thing I noticed is that the screws on one side tend to be more loose than the other ones.
# Answer
As the question continued in comments, it can be read that the build plate had over-tight screws and loose screws on the build plate. This uneven tension could lead to stresses that warp the bed, e.g. lower corner and bulging out in the middle of the bed. When levelling on the corners, the nozzle could hit the bulge in the middle when printing. Furthermore, an endstop may have shifted during operation.
> 1 votes
# Answer
I currently have a couple scratches on the base of my Cr-10. They may have come, for me, from using tape on the bed as well as the nozzle being too close and rubbing. I have not noticed any quality difference during my prints. Noting Oscar, warping could also cause the nozzle to scrape the build plate when it goes over it. I am attempting to fix this problem on own printer.
> 0 votes
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Tags: nozzle, bed-leveling, build-plate
---
|
thread-8025
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8025
|
Ender 3 homing problem
|
2019-01-21T19:22:56.540
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 homing problem
I got myself a Creality Ender 3 and just finished assembling it and I noticed that the home position is at the right instead of the left. It also is about about 3 mm in front of the right corner.
Anyone could maybe help me to understand what is wrong?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Homing is the process where the machine finds all the limits of the 3 axis (at the endstop switches), to have a common reference point for each axis. From the endstops, firmware defined values exist to give the printer head the offset to the home position, also known as origin (X=0, Y=0). If the origin position is in front of the plate, wrong offsets may be defined, but you can re-adjust the position.
If the stepper is driving the printer head away from the endstop on a particular axis on homing (in your case the X direction), there might be a few possible problems at hand:
1. The stepper cables are plugged in reversed
2. The wires in the stepper cable are switched
3. The stepper direction is reversed in firmware (this is not very probable for a kit or bought printer)
4. The stepper motor itself is build mirrored (not uncommon mistake for Y stepper motors on the Anet A8)
A quick fix would be to rotate the connector 180° of the cable going into the X stepper, if this works, you can disassemble the cable and properly arrange the stepper wires.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Did you make sure that the x,y,z and other cords / connectors, were connected to the right areas? TO clarify, the things that connect into the motors.
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Tags: creality-ender-3, homing
---
|
thread-8033
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8033
|
Adhesion problem when printing calibration test
|
2019-01-22T05:25:24.870
|
# Question
Title: Adhesion problem when printing calibration test
Here is my first attempt at printing a "Bed Leveling Calibration test".
It obviously didn't come out as I would have hoped, but what can you say just looking at this picture?
Is it possible to tell from this calibration print which corners are not leveled? Or is this just a general lack of stickiness issue (e.g. i need glue)?
I leveled this thing with paper several times, but honestly, I'm terrible at leveling. I just got this new piece of glass and there's nothing on it. The glue residue is actually on the sheet beneath.
What are some tips for printing on glass? I hear some people say use glue, others say never use glue. Should I increase or lower the temp?
I'm printing Dikale PLA on Monoprice Select V2, extruder temp 200 °C and bed temp 70 °C. Initial layer speed is 30 mm/s (print speed is 60 mm/s but I don't think this print goes that far).
# Answer
> 2 votes
> What can you say just looking at this picture?
*-\>There are 2 obvious observations that can be drawn from your image.*
**First**, the bed does not seem to be levelled correctly, the right side (especially the front right corner) is closer to the nozzle than the left and left-back side.
> Is it possible to tell from this calibration print which corners are not leveled?
*-\> Yes, the front right corner is higher. The filament is much thinner there, it is more transparent than the rest of the lines.*
**Second**, you have glass mounted onto an adhesion sheet similar to BuildTak. Note that such adhesion sheets are rough (to create more surface area for the filament to grip on), placing a sheet of glass on top of such a sheet will create small air pockets (less contact surface area to the glass plate as that is perfectly flat by its production process) and thus an unsatisfactory heat transfer process. Glass directly onto the Aluminium will have a higher temperature than with an insulator (BuildTak sheet) in between it, it is far more difficult to determine the bed temperature that way. For printing on glass, you could also raise the temperature compared to direct printing onto the metal bed.
> Should I increase or lower the temp?
*-\> When using glass on top of the heated bed, you should raise the temperature a few degrees.*
You should remove the BuildTak sheet and put the glass directly onto the Aluminium heat bed or remove the glass plate and print on the BuildTak sheet directly, level the bed better or consider installing an auto-level (touch) sensor if your printer electronics board supports that.
> What are some tips for printing on glass?
Furthermore, use some PVA based spray (e.g. certain hairspray brands or specific print adhesion spray) or Polyvinylpyrrolidone based glues (certain glue sticks, white wood glue, etc.) to create a sticky surface for the filament to adhere to. I have great experience with PVA based sprays like 3DLAC, but there are great alternatives found in common household hairspray cans as well, as long as it contains PVA.
> Or is this just a general lack of stickiness issue (e.g. i need glue)?
*-\> Yes, Polyvinylpyrrolidone/PVA based glue/spray will result in better adhesion.*
<sub> A general remark is that you could listen at what others have tried, but you need to find out yourself what works best for you. In order to get the print to stick to the glass, you should use every trick there is to get good adhesion. If PVA based sprays or Polyvinylpyrrolidone based glues work for you, use it, if not, print on bare glass, use tape, BuilTak, elevate bed temperature, overextrude first layer, use brims/mouse ears, etc.. </sub>
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Tags: heated-bed, bed-leveling, adhesion, glass-bed, monoprice-maker-select
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|
thread-8041
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8041
|
Unable to hit hot end temperature with part cooler on
|
2019-01-23T03:19:03.197
|
# Question
Title: Unable to hit hot end temperature with part cooler on
I'm unable to use the parts cooler I printed. Every time I turn it on, the hot end temp drops too low, and for some reason the PID can't seem to get it back up:
This is a test to simulate the issue. The first drop is the fan kicking on, then the last bump is me turning the fan off. It's almost as if the set point drops when the fan kicks in. Any ideas? The PID is tuned (I ran the autotune) and works well without the fan on. This is a RepRap Guru Prusa clone.
# Answer
This effect you describe is a commonly known problem that occurs when the print part cooling fan is not correctly positioned, i.e. if it blows air directly onto the nozzle or heater block and is best solved by printing an alternative part cooling fan duct. Alternatively you could insulate the heater block with some insulation cotton or silicone socks that fit over the heater block.
> 3 votes
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Tags: hotend, heat-management, cooling
---
|
thread-8044
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8044
|
Filament choice for coasters
|
2019-01-23T12:42:50.497
|
# Question
Title: Filament choice for coasters
Which filament is good for a coaster for a hot cup?
I don't expect PLA to be good because it can easily melt under a hot cup.
Note, I can't use ABS because I don't have an enclosed printer.
# Answer
> 4 votes
Even if you pour in boiling water in a cup, the outside of the cup will have a lower temperature. When resting on a coaster, usually a small part of the cup actually touches the coaster. Also, the design of the coaster could influence the heat transfer, a more open structure of the coaster may be beneficial. Some people print coasters in PLA although the glass temperature (temperature at which the plastic becomes soft, this is usually the temperature of your bed when you print the material) may be lower than than the temperature of the cup, the filament will weaken (for PLA at about 50 °C), but not melt , melting of PLA happens at a higher temperature (for PLA above 150 °C) than your mug can get (unless you pour liquid metal in it). It should therefore be doable in PLA, I have printed a PLA coaster that has very small ridges (about 1 mm) of an embossed image and placed a cup with boiling water on it, to find that the coaster is able to withstand the temperature of the cup without deforming (the ridges do not fail or deform).
To elaborate on the filament materials other than PLA; there are many filament types that have higher glass temperatures, but are still very printable. Various types of co-polyesters exist, like PETG, that have a higher glass temperature (\> 85 °C), are a substitute for ABS and still very well printable. Nylon is also a material that can be used, there are brands that have low warp nylon.
Note that there are a few options to print ABS while you have a non-enclosed printer, you could
* fabricate some cardboard pieces for a temporary enclosure,
* place the printer in an non-draft room or
* print the skirt height at the height of the print part.
Note that coasters have a relative low profile height, it should not be that big of a problem to print ABS coasters on an open printer.
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Tags: filament-choice
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|
thread-8038
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8038
|
How to log more than 300 lines of the OctoPrint terminal?
|
2019-01-22T22:28:36.557
|
# Question
Title: How to log more than 300 lines of the OctoPrint terminal?
Is there a way to view more than the last 300 lines in the terminal tab on OctoPrint? Or is there a txt file of a log? Or even a setting/plugin that does either?
I keep finding my prints pausing as if I said to change the filament even though that wasn't set in the slicer, but I catch it long after the 300<sup>th</sup> line in the terminal so I can't see what OctoPrint is trying to do.
# Answer
Serial logging has to be enabled. **Warning: This will impact the performance of OctoPrint.** Enabling this feature can be done under Settings -\> Serial Connection -\> Serial Logging and checking the box for "Log communication to serial.log.
One can download the log under Settings -\> Logging and finding serial.log in the list of log files.
The file can also be found in the following directories (according to this FAQ)
> All log files that OctoPrint writes can be found in the logs sub folder in its configuration directory:
>
> * on Linux: ~/.octoprint/logs
> * on Windows: %APPDATA%\OctoPrint\logs
> * on MacOSX: ~/Library/Application Support/OctoPrint/logs
> 2 votes
# Answer
**Yes**, you can show more than 300 lines in the terminal; just disable auto scrolling (reference).
> Disabling Autoscroll now completely disables cutting off the lines (so you can have way more than 300 lines while that's disabled), filtering has been improved too and doesn't cause scrolling anymore.
Note that with disabled autoscrolling, you will be able to see more lines up to the point that the buffer is full. If you need even more lines to monitor, just enable the logging the data to file `serial.log`. If you open the options page (OctoPrint Settings), just tick the box for "Log communication to `serial.log`" under "Serial logging" of the "Serial connection" options.
This serial logging file is typically used for debug purposes, but as can be read from the options, it comes with a warning:
> While this can negatively impact performance, a `serial.log` can be incredibly useful for debugging any issues observed in the communication between OctoPrint and your printer.
You can either access the log file through the OctoPrint options/setting through the "Logging" options tab, or direct download/copy from the logging directory:
> * on Linux: ~/.octoprint/logs
> * on Windows: %APPDATA%\OctoPrint\logs
> * on MacOSX: ~/Library/Application Support/OctoPrint/logs
> 7 votes
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Tags: octoprint
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|
thread-8050
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8050
|
Flexible filament how to print a hollow "sleeve"
|
2019-01-24T00:42:51.380
|
# Question
Title: Flexible filament how to print a hollow "sleeve"
I need to print a flexible, hollow "sleeve" or "cover" for an elongated part, kind of like a soft "skin" for a "finger" (see pic). I'm not sure how to approach the hollow space problem, i.e. how to print a flexible surface that is above an enclosed, hollow space. I could print supports inside, but they'd be hard to remove from inside the space, because I can't quite access all corners with a tool from outside. I could print this in 2 parts ("bottom" / "walls" + "ceiling" separately), but I'd prefer not to glue if I don't have to. Any ideas how to approach this?
# Answer
Print orientation is usually the key to print with a minimum of supports. If you print this part with the sharp point down, you will get some support structures on the outside for overhang support to prevent it from tipping over, but no support on the inside.
> 6 votes
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Tags: support-structures, flexible
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|
thread-8040
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8040
|
Print parts fail mid-print
|
2019-01-23T03:16:17.917
|
# Question
Title: Print parts fail mid-print
I am trying to understand what could cause a misprint after several layers. It acts as if the extruder head bump to the PLA after a while. Thus moving the parts and then, it fails because it is not printing at the right location anymore.
The expected result, for one "pyramid" is the following: The whole model is the cube gear:
I checked the extruder multiplier coefficient parameter. The width of the filament is ok: 1.75 mm. The Y axis seems to be properly calibrated, and if it was the problem, I would expect it to fail before anyway. But I don't have any idea of what could cause that aside from that. And the problem seems to general and "quite" repeatable based on this print and some others (I do not guarantee the same height of failure, but...).
I got a better result by printing layers by 0.3 mm with a 0.4 mm nozzle. But this failed print was with a 0.2 mm layer.
My configuration: I have a prusa i3, with a bowden extruder. It has a slight multiplication of the extruder size, because during my calibration, I noticed that not enough material was pushed. I also calibrated my Z axis as carefully as I could. So what could cause the problem?
During my prints, I also have a problem of small strings everywhere, that I didn't manage to solve completely with the hotend temperature, nor the withdrawal parameter set to 2 mm. And I don't have a fan blowing at the end object (I plan to add one eventually). And the bridge speed is supposed to go at 60 mm/s and non print move at 100 mm/s, thus fast enough I think to avoid strings.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Your printer basically has 2 problems;
* stringing, and
* layer shifting
The second problem is most probably the result of the first issue. Excessive stringing leads to a lot of material outside the print object, when this clutters, the nozzle could get caught up and cause hindering of movement of a certain axis to result in a shifted layer print as the printer is not aware of this shift, it will continue the print from the shifted reference point.
From your second experiment you see that a larger layer height does not show excessive stringing and the print has therefore not been hindered by caught-up material to finish the product without layer shifting.
It is key to solve the stringing issue; stringing is the result of filament being extruded by pressure build-up in the nozzle that "leaks" out of the nozzle on travel movement of the print head. You will probably not see this happening when you print a single product; it is typically seen when printing multiple objects on the build plate. This usually implies that the printer need to be properly tuned. It is up to you to find the correct settings; test print objects, like calibration prints, help you find these correct settings.
Important print parameters to fight stringing are:
* retraction, (do you retract enough prior to movement?)
* coasting, (do you stop in time with extruding to make use of the overpressure in the nozzle?)
* travel speed, (do you move fast enough to minimize the amount of filament leaking out?)
* print temperature, (do you print at a temperature where the filament doesn't get too fluid?)
* print part cooling, (do you have sufficient cooling?)
Once you optimized this, the stringing should be gone and the change of layer shifting should have reduced.
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Tags: print-quality, prusa-i3, calibration
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|
thread-5935
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5935
|
Generating mold from stl file of the 3D drawing of the object
|
2018-05-07T18:57:16.750
|
# Question
Title: Generating mold from stl file of the 3D drawing of the object
I want to know how to make a mold of a 3D design in .stl format.
Suppose I have a 3D partin .stl format (for e.g. a cylinder) and I want to make/design a mold for this object (i.e. the structure through which I could make the cylinder). Is there any way to do so? Are there any tools to do so?
My requirement is as follows: I have an .stl file of a design and need to develop the CAD files for its mold. I will then need to 3D print these molds. I would require to add a hole to pour in liquid (resin based) raw material which hardens with time.
# Answer
You can also bring the model and a big box into slic3r, align and orient them (enclose the model in the box), and do a subtract modifier, leaving a hollow where the two intersected. You probably want to do this twice, for a top mould and a botom mould. I've done this, but I don't see any instructions online for it. :(
EDIT: Unfortunately, this would be very tedious. It's much easier to use meshmixer or another publicly available program to subtract one stl from another.
In Slic3r, using another stl as a modifier has no effect unless you are also printing that second stl (normally from another head). So you would have to manually remove all the gcode for the second head. Sorry for the bad advice.
> 5 votes
# Answer
In addition to the answer of Davo (which describes a surprising feature of the slicer software I was unaware of), a more generic description would involve the use of a 3D solid model CAD program. You should be aware that a model in STL format is not a solid model, it is a surface model. In order to make a mold you would have to import the STL model into a CAD program (there are a few free ones available like Fusion 360 or FreeCAD or maybe many more that will work also) and make a solid body from the surface model. Next thing is to create a large rectangular block and subtract the positive model from the block. Now a negative lives inside this block so you will need to conveniently cut the block through your negative to create 2 mold parts. Be sure that you divide the block so that you can take out the casting from the mold parts and also add an entry to pour in the liquid casting material and add risers (holes) to de-aerate the cavity. Furthermore, for alignment, you could add pins and holes to the mold parts.
> 3 votes
# Answer
While trying to find a soloution to this problem I came across this forum post, which led me to "Parametric two-part mold generator for OpenSCAD" on Thingiverse.
> A set of parametric OpenSCAD scripts that generate ready-to-print two-part molds from arbitrary STL models.
>
> These scripts can be used to generate either square (with or without rounded corners) or circular two-part molds and are fully parameterized to make it easy to adapt for your application.
Here's an example from Thingiverse.
You can find a download, install instructions or source code for OpenSCAD here.
> 2 votes
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Tags: 3d-design
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|
thread-8053
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8053
|
Periodical under extrusion with Slic3r
|
2019-01-24T12:40:37.363
|
# Question
Title: Periodical under extrusion with Slic3r
I got myself an Ender 3 printer, put it together and tried the test g-code, worked fine. But i sometimes have problems with under extrusion, as shown in the picture below.
As you can see, the part to the left is almost not printed, but the part to the right is fine. These "holes" are a lot of places, and i dont understand what is causing a temporary clog or whatever the problem may be.
Anyone know something about this problem?
# Answer
> 2 votes
What you experience is temporary under-extrusion. This could be a typical result of friction in the supply of filament to the extruder. I've run into this also a week ago when the shaft of the spool holder caught a plastic bag next to it which wrapped around the shaft creating a lot of friction. Friction can also be caused by filament that gets entangled on the spool, this is usually a problem if the spool unrolls too freely on the holder (too less friction);it unrolls a few windings, and then tightens those entangling the filament. Also, if you use 2.85 mm filament on small diameter spools, the last stretch of filament has the smallest curvature and as such requires the most force to pull it to the extruder (this can go in steps).
Furthermore, slipping of the extruder gear is also a (rare) possibility (when using a stepper directly to drive the extruder gear, a flat spot on the stepper shaft should prevent this).
Be sure to inspect the filament release from spool to extruder and try to see (and listen!) what happens when you print a part when you experience the under-extrusion.
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Tags: extrusion, slic3r, troubleshooting
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|
thread-8012
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8012
|
3DBenchy's bow prints out of alignment
|
2019-01-19T14:40:36.697
|
# Question
Title: 3DBenchy's bow prints out of alignment
I'm new to 3D printing, but I've solved all of my problems except for this rough surface shown in the image of a Benchy print:
Any suggestions are appreciated.
* Printer (new): Raptor 2 (400x400x700 mm)
* Bed Temp: 65 °C
* Extruder Temp: 210 °C
* Filament: PLA (1.75 mm) right out of the package (came with printer from Formbot)
* 200 degrees extruder; 60-degree hotbed - print success, bow issue persists. speed: 100
* fade height: 0
* nozzle: 200
* bed: 60
* fan speed: 255
* flow: 100 probe offset: -1.4
# Answer
> 3 votes
You print too hot and probably with not enough cooling. These typical defects are caused by too much heat input into your model. You see this best at the overhang of the bow of Benchy, it should be smooth like the bottom part of the side of your Benchy. It clearly shows heat induced defects. Lower the temperature at least 10 °C. Know that PLA usually is printable at about 190 °C, also 65 °C for the hotbed is quite high, Depending on the surface you could aim for a temperature between 50 - 60 °C,
# Answer
> 3 votes
Turns out the blower on the extruder was not plugged in at the factory. Now it's printing fine. Thank you all for the help and support.
# Answer
> 2 votes
The artifact your bow clearly shows is usually a result of very high print temperature - the filament sags unevenly as it is not cooling to solidification fast enough.
You might want to reduce your print temperature for PLA a little. Try one or two 5° steps. I print my PLA usually at 200 °C, some blends even lower. Do the same for the print bed - 60 °C is the usual temperature in many machines.
When I unpack 210 °C that's only in conjunction with 100 % infill and deliberate over-extrusion for what would be best described as a "cast-solid" result. It's because under that condition I want the filament to melt and merge with everything super tight.
It also might help to change the print cooling geometry to better cool the printed parts - and check if all fans are on.
# Answer
> 2 votes
If you printed Benchy upright, this is an overhang. You didn't state the print speed that you used, but I found that I can **improve overhang quality considerably by printing them slower**.
If you're otherwise satisfied with the print quality, you probably don't want to waste time by printing the whole model slower. If you're using Ultimaker Cura there is a setting in the *Experimental* section (don't worry, it works fine) to print only overhangs slower:
(Those are very conservative settings, a larger angle, like 30°, would probably be fine, too.)
# Answer
> 1 votes
Try to re-compile the gcode, sometimes the slicer "freaks out" whilst writing the file. Which slicer are you using? (Cura, Slic3r, Repetier, etc.)
I sometimes have that errors, and giving that they do seem quite consistent in shape in the pics I would say that's the issue.
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Tags: print-quality, troubleshooting
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|
thread-7913
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7913
|
X and Y homing issues
|
2019-01-08T05:54:41.797
|
# Question
Title: X and Y homing issues
I get an `error: printer halted. (kill() called!` Any time I home my machine's X or Y axis. I have just installed a 3D touch auto bed level sensor, ironically it works fine. I was using Sprinter firmware but it doesn't support auto bed level, so thus I'm using Marlin. I am using the latest version of Marlin and it gave me nothing but issues, printer wouldn't move or home at all. I used the latest Marlin 1.1.x bug fix edition (1.1.9) and now everything is working correctly except X and Y homing, the machine throws the `error: printer halted. (kill() called!` on Repetier-Host.
When I use the `M119` command all endstops (optical, not mechanical) show as open unless triggered, the endstops are working correctly. When I home the X and or Y it will do as it should and stop when it hits the endstop but that is when the errors pop up and the printer freezes/no longer to gives commands without disconnecting and reconnecting to the printer again.
If I home my Z axis it will deploy the probe and come down and touch the bed 2x and no error code and I can still manually move the printer around with the program movements after homing Z axis. I'm not sure what would cause this to happen only on X and Y but any help would be appreciated.
I use Repetier-Host but I downloaded Printrun just to see what would happen and it shows the exact same effect/errors. I also tried the Marlin bugfix 2.0 and it gave the same errors too.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Without the images of how you connected the endstops, the best guess for your problem is that the endstops cause a short circuit, once pressed, the microprocessor trips and shuts down. If you provide more information, other people may even add better answers based on your added information.
E.g. how is everything connected at both sides of the cable (board and endstop), does the message occur when you press an endstop, maybe it is even wise to add a link to your configuration files.
# Answer
> 1 votes
I apologize I should have got back with you guys sooner. I downloaded a fresh copy of the Marlin firmware again and pulled up the Sprinter config.H folder. Since the firmwares are very similar I was able to just glance at my Sprinter firmware and noticed certain endstops for my optical endstops required "pull ups" to correctly work. I thought I had tried this before but either I did some thing wrong the first time or I didn't save the changes, who knows. Thanks to every one trying to help.
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Tags: marlin, firmware, y-axis, x-axis, homing
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|
thread-8064
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8064
|
Correct nozzle replacement
|
2019-01-26T11:32:04.963
|
# Question
Title: Correct nozzle replacement
I have a Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D Printer and have tried to replace the nozzle.
The nozzles I bought turned out to be too small.
What are the important specifications of a nozzle?
* Thread size
* Thread length
* That plastic tube thing?
Monoprice is very bad at publishing the specs, can I work it out with a caliper?
# Answer
> 4 votes
This is a so-called MK10 nozzle, it is larger than the normal nozzles you find (as you found out).
There are quite a few questions on this nozzle, with e.g. this answer or this answer.
This nozzle uses M7 (metric threads of 7 mm) to have more room to fit the PTFE tube (white tube) in the nozzle itself. This tube forms the barrier between the heating source and the filament feed so that it does not melt too soon. You can find these nozzles on those typical auction websites by searching for "MK10 and M7".
When you have ordered the correct nozzle you could reuse the existing PTFE liner if it has not degraded or damaged, or buy replacement PTFE tube of 4 mm outer diameter and 1.9 or 2 mm inner diameter and cut a similar sized replacement liner.
# Answer
> 3 votes
## What part fits?
A replacement nozzle needs to fit 3 parameters:
* Thread diameter and pitch need to match up, to allow mounting
* Thread length should be close to the original to allow secure fastening
* The style needs to fit: there are quite some styles of nozzle - most are not lined, yours is PTFE lined to the nozzle (see also Can the filament tube be outside of the nozzle?)
Monoprice nozzles are **not** compatible with what is known as Ultimaker Mk8 or E3D style (which you bought). They are Ultimaker Mk10 style.
## What's a good nozzle?
Now, what separates a good replacement nozzle from a bad one?
* good machining to leave no burs and a smooth interior.
* a good inner geometry that allows easy flow
* outlet hole is to size
## Finding premade replacement parts
As a first measure to not get the wrong replacement parts, make sure to add the manufacturer of your printer to the search and then check the thread diameter if given. In your case, you might have to add Monoprice or Toymaker, as those use this style of nozzle.
## Reverse engineering a Nozzle
Now, which measurements do you need to reverse engineer it?
* nozzle front pitch angle
* hex head flat-to-flat & hight
* recess diameter & hight
* screw shaft relief diameter & hight
* thread outer diameter & length
* inner bore diameter at entry (and in case of a lined one: after the step) & corresponding depth of drilling
* amount of chamfering
With these, it's possible to do do a CNC model or a sketch of the outside and produce pretty much blanks or shells on a lathe that just need their last little bit of drilling... and here comes the tricky part: till now, all could be accessed from the outside. We are missing one profile though: the last piece of the inner bore geometry.
This one can't easily be measured, but if one can push some plastic in, let it cool and then pull it out, one might get a molding of it, which might allow to reverse engineer a fitting drill for the last piece.
---
Tags: nozzle, monoprice-maker-ultimate
---
|
thread-8067
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8067
|
Lower Layers are messy
|
2019-01-26T23:09:33.873
|
# Question
Title: Lower Layers are messy
This picture pretty much shows the problem:
I print on a CR-10 and this thing is pretty much just a problem factory. Anyways, the latest problem that was never there before is that for some reason the first 2-4mm of the print are totally messed up like in the picture. That isnt that much of a problem for bigger parts (as in the right one) but smaller things such as the pi-coin (left) are absolutely useless now.
Things ive already checked that haven't fixed the problem:
* Different PLA filament types (geetech, Janbex)
* Different nozzles (0.3mm, 0.4mm)
* Variations of smaller line withs (up to .05mm smaller)
* Nozzle temperatures between 180°C and 215°C
* Bed temperatures between room temp. and 80°C
* Flowrates 85% of actual flowrate up to 105%
* Printing speeds of 30mm/s to 80mm/s
* Different location on the buildplate in case that parts of the rail are worn out
* Cooling fan active all the time, off all the time, off for the first layers
* Checked bed leveling
* Checked extrusion -Variations of all of these things
It is noticable that the first few lines are layed down perfectly but when filling out the circles (in the case of these models) the layer becomes very rough. After that every new layer just suffers from the quality of the previous one. There is also a scratching sound when the nozzle moves over the object. I slice with Cura (latest version) and Z-hop is active.
I also checked the Z-rod and it at least looks fine to me.
I am really running out of ideas. I even checked every screw on the printer (and found out that the x-Rail wasn't perfectly straight but that didnt fix it either).
This problem occured after I replaced the entire print head with a new one since the old one kept clogging.
# Answer
Referring to the scratching, this could indicate that the nozzle is a little too close to the bed. This can be caused by a non-uniform bed, but that is unlikely in your case as you have tried printing on different areas of the build plate, this implies that the bed is correctly levelled. Still, the nozzle may be too close while having a perfect level bed (easily checked by using a metal ruler on its side over the bed). You could print an adjustable Z endstop trigger mechanism, there can be a few found on Thingiverse, e.g. this one or this one, it should enable you to fine-tune the nozzle to bed distance by turning the adjustment screw; the following image shows an example:
Note that a recent question has a solution that describes that the rollers had too much play on the profile.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: print-quality
---
|
thread-4293
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4293
|
"Tac Tac" sound when printing with ABS
|
2017-06-27T11:34:09.267
|
# Question
Title: "Tac Tac" sound when printing with ABS
My 3D printer makes weird sounds. When it's at \>75% printing speed the extruder motor makes a "tac tac" sound and it goes backwards, pushing the filament back, for a small interval of time. I have tried changing the nozzle temperature and I'm unable to work this out alone.
Has someone had the same problem?
This is the 3D printer: Geeetech High Quality Wood Geeetech Prusa I3 Pro W 3D Printer Kit.
# Answer
@Ecnerwal is right: that noise you hear is the extruder not being able to push the filament, and the stepper can't push any harder. When the extruder tries to push harder than it can, it gives up, and the "spring" tension it created in the filament forces it to go backwards a tiny bit. Then it tries again.
Possible causes/fixes:
* Temperature too low -- this makes the filament not liquid enough to push through the nozzle easily. For ABS, you should be in the 230-240 range.
* Clogged nozzle -- take the nozzle off (while hot) and try heating it with a torch to burn out anything that might be in there.
* Bad filament -- If the filament has contamination in it, or is too large to fit through the hot end in places (I.E. it gets up to 1.9mm instead of 1.75mm)
* Stepper current too low -- I'm not sure if you can adjust the current that is sent to your stepper motors, but if it is too low, the stepper can not provide enough torque to push the filament through. I don't see the stepper drivers on the site, so I don't know if you can adjust them or not.
> 10 votes
# Answer
You are extruding (rather, attempting to extrude) faster than the hotend/nozzle can melt & pump plastic. Eventually something's got to give, and it's usually the grip on the filament by the extruder gear (or the torque available is exceeded.)
You either need to limit the speed you extrude at, or change other print settings (temperature) to melt faster. You are not going 75% - you're trying to go more than 100% (in real terms of what the printer can actually do.)
> 3 votes
# Answer
It could be a result of filament building up around the drive gear.
* disassemble your extruder to expose the drive gear (the gear that drives the filament down to the heat element).
* clean any filament build-up out of the the teeth.
Filament can sometimes build up around the gear over time when the extruder temp is not high enough to efficiently melt the filament. This occurs more commonly with ABS I've noticed, probably partly due to its higher heat resistance. However, this affect is ultimately an issue of poor quality filament (aka cheap).
> 0 votes
# Answer
A possible problem could be with the filament itself. If the filament is significantly out of round, then it's possible that the thinner radius of the filament is too small for the extruder and the gear can't get a good bite to push it through.
I had a similar problem with a Monoprice Select v2 (Prusa i3 clone) and it turned out that my 1.75mm filament was an ellipse of 1.85mm x 1.60mm. I too only noticed it when the printer was running at higher speeds.
> 0 votes
# Answer
I had this problem since last week. It is definitely choked nuzzle. You have to clean your nozzle, some dirt, dust or too much burned Pla could restrict PLA flow, and exc. motor pushes it with tac tac sound. I have cleaned 2 hours ago and everything works perfectly.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: abs
---
|
thread-8071
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8071
|
Printrbot Simple + OctoPrint on PC not working
|
2019-01-27T16:40:50.063
|
# Question
Title: Printrbot Simple + OctoPrint on PC not working
I am running the newest version of OctoPrint server on my Windows 10 PC, and accessing it with Mozilla Firefox on the same PC.
I also installed Cura 15.04 and selected the Printrbot Simple profile, and pointed to the Cura install path in the OctoPrint client so that it can use it for slicing.
I plugged in my printer and it was recognized by OctoPrint. The nozzle temperature is correctly shown, and I can turn the fans on/off in the control tab.
However, I cannot do anything else in the control tab, including moving the axes. I have not imported any sort of printer profile into OctoPrint, since I cannot figure out how to or where to find my printer's information.
There has not been any kind of calibration process I can find either. Can anybody help me find a print profile/calibrate my printer, and just get it working so I can move the axes/print something out?
# Answer
Before any axis can move the printer must be homed correctly (`G28` command, or an equivalent home button, there are 2: an X/Y and a Z button). A correct printer profile must also be defined; this profile contains some bed geometry and speed data, these are some basic values that are easy to add through the wrench button and "printer profiles" menu item.
Note that Cura 15.04 is **very** old, more recent version with far more options and better stability can be downloaded, but won't work integrated in OctoPrint, instead you download the most recent version of Ultimaker Cura directly from Ultimaker.com slice your product and store the G-code file to later import this into OctoPrint.
Please take care in choosing an optimal power plan in Windows 10, if your computer goes to sleep during a print (or updates or crashes) your print is lost; using a Raspberry Pi is far more safe.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: calibration, motor, octoprint
---
|
thread-8057
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8057
|
Resources on getting horus/ciclop scanners to work?
|
2019-01-24T21:00:27.577
|
# Question
Title: Resources on getting horus/ciclop scanners to work?
I have a Ciclop (HE3D version) scanner ready to try to use, but it seems the Horus software is hopelessly bitrotted. It has breakage from API-level changes at least in the Python bindings for OpenGL, OpenCV, matplotlib, and wxPython, and possibly also incompatibility with the V4L2 camera drivers for Linux versions later than whatever the authors were using at the time. After attempting to fix those as best I can, I'm still getting no output from the camera. (Note: The camera works fine with other apps and OpenCV test program, so it's not a camera problem.)
Is anyone using the Horus software successfully? Are there forks or alternate software that are usable, or exact details on what historical operating system and Python ecosystem version is needed to make it work?
# Answer
I don't know if this will work but BQ commercializes a Ciclops scanner and have some downloads in their webpage (https://www.bq.com/en/support/ciclop/support-sheet).
There are different Horus and driver versions, maybe some will work for you(?).
Hope it helps!
> 1 votes
---
Tags: software, scanning, open-source
---
|
thread-8081
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8081
|
Converting .nii file to .stl file
|
2019-01-28T18:21:42.303
|
# Question
Title: Converting .nii file to .stl file
I'm trying to convert a .nii file to a .stl file using this tutorial.
Since my computer runs Windows, I'm running FreeSurfer (Linux) on VirtualBox. I was unable to allow Guest Additions, so I downloaded my .nii file by email. I ran this command to extract the data from the file using FreeSurfer: `recon-all -s mybrain -all -i /home/fsuser/Desktop/brainscan.nii`
Unfortunately, it did not work, and I received this error message:
```
"WARNING: tcsh v6.17.06 has an exit code bug! Please update tcsh!
ERROR: Flag -i/home/fsuser/Desktop/anat_stripped.nii unrecognized. -s mybrain -all -i/home/fsuser/Desktop/anat_stripped.nii Linux xubuntu-VirtualBox 3.2.0-23-generic #36-Ubuntu SMP Tue Apr 10 20:41:14 UTC 2012 i686 i686 i386 GNU/Linux
recon-all -s mybrain exited with ERRORS at Fri Jan 25 20:08:01 EST 2019
For more details, see the log file To report a problem, see http://surfer.nmr.mgh.harvard.edu/fswiki/BugReporting"
```
I think the problem is that I don't have an application in VirtualBox that can open a .nii file. I tried to download Mango, but when I unzipped the file, there was no executable. What should I do so my .nii file can be converted to a .stl file?
# Answer
> 2 votes
Looks like you didn't include a space between the -i flag and the file, though you did include the space in this question. Try running the command but include spaces between your flags and file directories:
```
recon-all -s mybrain -all -i /home/fsuser/Desktop/brainscan.nii
```
---
Tags: file-formats
---
|
thread-8083
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8083
|
Prusa i3 improvement - cooling fan
|
2019-01-29T02:33:43.447
|
# Question
Title: Prusa i3 improvement - cooling fan
I wanted to add a cooling fan to my Prusa i3. The board used by this printer is an MKS GEN L v1.0, such as this one:
The cooling fan plug seems to be the white one on the top left corner, just below the step motor drivers. I plug a working 5 V DC fan, but it is not rotating. What could be the cause? The cooling fan has been enabled permanently using Slic3r to generate the G-code I am printing.
The board is powered by a 12 V power supply.
Are there some modifications to do on the embedded software side?
# Answer
> 3 votes
The MKS GEN L v1.0 is a board that according to the information found on the web operates to run on a voltage between 12 - 24 V, this means that all peripherals on the board should match this voltage. A 5 V fan should therefore not be connected.
**First**, you need to establish that you are using the correct fan port on the board.
## Which port to use?
If you take a closer look at the board layout you will find that the top fan connector cannot be controlled, it is a fixed voltage power supply of 12 - 24 V (so basically depending on the power that is supplied to the board).
This can be seen from the board layout:
Or zoomed in on the top left corner:
Note that no pin number is given, this means that it is a constant power supply fan header. A 5 V fan attaching to this port does not seem to be a good solution, it can easily burn out the fan electronics. This fan should match the voltage of the power supply you use, so when powered by a 12 V power supply, attach a 12 V fan or a 24 V fan when the board is powered by 24 V.
As said, this fan port is not controlled by PWM and can therefore not be scheduled from within your slicer, however, it makes an excellent fan for cooling the cold end of the nozzle assembly.
To schedule a fan for print part cooling through the slicer you need to attach the fan to the other fan header below the X stepper driver on the left, if you look closely to the schematics, you see that that is a fan that can be scheduled using the digital pin `D9`.
Note that this fan also operates at the voltage specified by your power supply; a 5 V fan ***should not*** be connected to this port either!
The *solution to your problem* is to *buy a fan of the correct voltage and connect it to the correct fan header*.
As you have tried connecting a fan to the lower fan port, and conclude that the fan has never rotated but still rotates when supplied with a correct voltage, you need to ask yourself if this port is:
* configured correctly in the firmware, or
* not broken.
Now that you know where to connect the fan for print part cooling, connect a fan that matches the power supply voltage.
## Why is the fan not working?
The microprocessor of the board schedules and reads various ports or pins based on the firmware it runs. This implies that the setup of the firmware is very important in the use of certain ports. It is therefore important to research if this port:
* was meant to be used by the printer manufacturer (so enabled in the firmware)
* or board is controlled by which firmware
Once you establish that it is enabled (e.g. the manufacturer describes that the printer has a print part cooling fan), you should try printing a part where you enable the print fan in the slicer software. If not, you need to change the firmware configuration to enable the fan. If this does not work, you should address your attention to why it is not working. A multimeter can be used to read the voltage of the fan MOSFET output or the D9 output. If either one of those doesn't record a voltage, your board or MOSFET are probably broken. To fix this, you could solder an unused pin to the fan MOSFET or a new MOSFET and change the firmware. Another option is to buy a new board and flash a new configuration of a printer firmware onto it.
---
Tags: prusa-i3, print-fan
---
|
thread-8084
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8084
|
ANet A8 running Marlin v1.1.9 Auto Bedlevel with ROKO SN04-N
|
2019-01-29T06:35:23.410
|
# Question
Title: ANet A8 running Marlin v1.1.9 Auto Bedlevel with ROKO SN04-N
I'm trying to get the ROKO (SN04-N) sensor to work with my Anet A8. First of all, while trying to screw it to the extruder, I tightened it too much and sort of broke the acrylic plate... sort of. I had to use a very thin steel plate with two holes to enforce the acrylic plate. It still works.
Now, I followed instructions in this video. *(Please note that the video is not in English.)* After the first "Auto Home" operation, the guy draws on the bed and then measures. My measurements are slightly different.
At the 19-minute mark, the guy is hard-coding the values but I don’t understand how he calculated them? My measured offsets are: `X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 16` and `Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 58`. In his video, his calculations were 18 mm for the X offset and 57 mm for the Y offset. Either way, I’m not able to compile the code as a sanity check fails:
```
`static_assert(FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION >= MIN_PROBE_Y, "FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION is outside the probe region.");`
```
Here are the sensor limitation values from the configuration file:
```
// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20 //MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 200 //(X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 47 //MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 200 //(Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
```
What am I doing wrong?
Note that I'm using Marlin Firmware v1.1.9
# Answer
> 5 votes
Too bad you broke the acrylic plate (nice temporary fix though), but you can easily print a replacement part once your machine is up and running.
Probe positioning is defined in the Marlin configuration as:
```
* +-- BACK ---+
* | |
* L | (+) P | R -- probe (20,20)
* E | | I
* F | (-) N (+) | G -- nozzle (10,10)
* T | | H
* | (-) | T
* | |
* O-- FRONT --+
* (0,0)
```
This implies that your sensor is located on the back-right when facing the machine and need to have the following constants set:
```
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 16 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 58 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]
```
In order to calculate the correct limits of travel for the sensor, you need to subtract the offset values from the bed size at the max limits.
An additional offset may be required for some sensors, so please add an additional offset in the configuration by defining:
```
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10
```
As the sensor is off-center with respect to your nozzle, one can only assume that you have no extra space to move the whole printhead and therefore need to confine the head within the limits of the max/min bed size (there should be some extra space, this can be seen from the offsets for the origin as in values for `X_MIN_POS` and `Y_MIN_POS`, but for the sake of simplicity these will not be taken into account).
Basically, your positive Y and positive X offset result in the following schematic.
Or, if you include the `#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE [value]`
Bed limits for the sensor then will need to be calculated based on the values of your offset of the sensor. E.g. when your nozzle is at (X=0, Y-0), or (0, 0), your sensor is at (16, 58). If you don't want to move the head further left and forward (to respect to origin as limit!), this is the minimum position of the sensor. When the sensor is at the back-right position of (220, 220), the actual head is at (220-16=204, 220-58=162).
This means that the limits for the sensor without a minimum offset are (16, 58) and (220, 220):
```
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
```
would translate with a `MIN_PROBE_EDGE = 0` to:
```
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 16
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 220
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 58
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 220
```
and would translate with a `MIN_PROBE_EDGE = 10` to:
```
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 26
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 210
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 68
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 210
```
The assertion in code: `FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION >= MIN_PROBE_Y` would now translate to (58 \>= 58) (or 68 \>= 58), in your case it was (47 \>= 58) which clearly is not true.
---
*Please look into this answer, this answer or this answer for more information.*
---
Tags: marlin, anet-a8, bed-leveling
---
|
thread-8092
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8092
|
Anet A8 with Marlin firmware: Auto Home is crashing into bed
|
2019-01-30T09:08:51.127
|
# Question
Title: Anet A8 with Marlin firmware: Auto Home is crashing into bed
I got things moving from the answer to a previous question. Now, since the base-video I'm following is non-English, I want the next phase fixed: `Probing failed`
Auto Homing showing failing Z-homing
After the final adjusted firmware upload, and bringing the sensor up, I see that the extruder pushes the bed down a bit when I auto home and then the LCD screen says probing failed.
If compare to the latest (v1.1.9) Configuration.h file from GitHub, here are the changes:
```
#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE // Line #0719, Uncommented
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 16 // Line # 0779, Was 0
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 58 // Line # 0780, Was 0
#define Z_HOMING_HEIGHT 5 // Line # 0870, Was 4
// #define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z // Line # 0907 Commented
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR // Line # 0977, Uncommented
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE) // Line # 1027, Uncommented
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE) // Line # 1028, Uncommented
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE) // Line # 1029, Uncommented
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE) // Line # 1030, Uncommented
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING // Line # 1144, Uncommented
```
From the above changeset, lines 1027-1030 are from the other SO question I mentioned above, the remaining are following the video.
After completing the steps up to the point where I push the firmware and have to lift the ROKO up I followed instructions in this video, my "Auto Home" operation is failing.
**Update 1**
I used Pronterface as recommended by @dgrat in comments below and got this result:
```
>>> M119
SENDING:M119
Reporting endstop status
x_min: open
y_min: open
z_min: TRIGGERED
```
I did not get the Probing failed message this time.
What's next?
**Update 2**
I also went ahead and tried out the second answer, where @0scar is recommending to uncomment `#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z`.
The results are exactly the same: The head hits the hotbed and goes back and then comes down slowly hitting and compressing the spring a bit before stopping. I did not get the Probing failed message this time.
# Answer
> 1 votes
You should un-comment the following line to get rid of the `Probing failed` error message:
```
// #define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z // Line # 0907 Commented
```
to
```
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z
```
You have basically disabled the use of the minimum Z endstop, while in fact you are using one, the difference is that it is a sensor now, not a mechanical switch.
Please note the distance of the sensor to the bed, it looks as though it is pretty far away. Before sending an auto home command, it is better to test the endstop triggering beforehand; an external application (e.g. Pronterface, Repetier-Host, OctoPrint, etc.), USB cable and a laptop/computer can be used to send G-code commands through the terminal of the external application. Code `M119` will output the endstop trigger status to the terminal.
---
Tags: marlin, anet-a8, bed-leveling, homing, inductive-sensor
---
|
thread-8091
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8091
|
LCD full graphic smart controller, no character display and screen blinking
|
2019-01-29T23:11:59.720
|
# Question
Title: LCD full graphic smart controller, no character display and screen blinking
After uncommenting the `REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER`, the display is blinking and no characters are shown on the screen, I have already switched the cables between `EXP1` and `EXP2`, but it did not succeed.
# Answer
> 6 votes
this problem can be solved by turning the slots on the display, as in the image below. Some Chinese displays are inverted from factory.
---
Tags: marlin, full-graphic-smart-controller
---
|
thread-8103
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8103
|
Print box bigger than the printer bed
|
2019-01-31T05:16:12.187
|
# Question
Title: Print box bigger than the printer bed
I am trying to make a box that is 420 mm wide by 86 mm tall by 100 mm long, I wonder if there is a good technique to design, cut, print and fit all parts together to be safe and hard.
# Answer
Are you making a simple box? Or does it have some kind of detail or structure? The photo below exemplifies a structure attached to connectors that have been created outside of Fusion, but you can also use it as an idea to create your own!
Link to OPENSCAD LIBRARY
If you are thinking of cutting into parts, you can also create a kind of male / female (puzzle) in the parts that fit. Something like that ...
Here is some interesting information to study How to design Snap-fit Joints for 3D Printing
> 1 votes
---
Tags: fusion360
---
|
thread-5161
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5161
|
Under extrusion with Cura 3.1
|
2017-12-21T12:43:04.930
|
# Question
Title: Under extrusion with Cura 3.1
I upgraded from Cura 2.7 to 3.1.0 and I'm getting horrible under extrusion, I'm sure this is the software because I rolled back to 2.7 and everything is working fine again.
My printing is a Robo3D R1+ using the "custom FDM printer" profile.
Is there any new setting or a setting that isn't migrated properly that causes this?
# Answer
Some users have reported upgrades to Cura changing the filament size to the default 2.85 mm. If you are using 1.75 mm filament (which most printers do), you will get extreme under-extrusion.
> 7 votes
# Answer
I hit this issue again in January 2019 with CuraEngine 3.6+git. Since support for multiple extruders was added, it now auto-loads a per-extruder settings file that overrides the main settings file **and the command line**, so `-s material_diameter=1.75` on the command line did not help. Given `$foo.def.json`, it seems to construct the filename `%$foo_extruder_0.def.json`, and if that does not exist, loads `fdmextruder.def.json`, which sets `material_width` to a default of `2.85`.
I was able to solve the problem by either patching `fdmextruder.def.json`, or making a copy of it named to match my printer's settings file, with the `2.85` changed to `1.75`.
Update: There should already be extruder files for supported printers, but they're in a different directory, so they won't be found when invoking `CuraEngine` from the command line unless you've set the `CURA_ENGINE_SEARCH_PATH` environment variable to include the path they're in. Alternatively you can copy them to the same directory as the main printer json files.
> 5 votes
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Tags: ultimaker-cura
---
|
thread-3389
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3389
|
Why am I not seeing an effect from an M42 command on Marlin?
|
2017-01-12T23:39:15.127
|
# Question
Title: Why am I not seeing an effect from an M42 command on Marlin?
I'm trying to use one of the RAMPS GPIOs to control an external device that requires a 5V low-current logic level signal from Marlin. In order to do this programmatically, my host software (Octoprint) is sending an M42 command. I am using the following syntax:
```
M42 P4 S255
```
according to the pinout in the following image:
However, the pin appears to not be driven to a logic HIGH level. Is there firmware-level configuration I need to do as well, or is my syntax/pin number incorrect?
# Answer
> 5 votes
I looked at the current Marlin code and the P24 command should work as you expect it unless the pin you are trying to use in listed as the "SENSITIVE\_PINS" list:
```
#define SENSITIVE_PINS { 0, 1, \
X_STEP_PIN, X_DIR_PIN, X_ENABLE_PIN, X_MIN_PIN, X_MAX_PIN, \
Y_STEP_PIN, Y_DIR_PIN, Y_ENABLE_PIN, Y_MIN_PIN, Y_MAX_PIN, \
Z_STEP_PIN, Z_DIR_PIN, Z_ENABLE_PIN, Z_MIN_PIN, Z_MAX_PIN, Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN, \
PS_ON_PIN, HEATER_BED_PIN, FAN_PIN, FAN1_PIN, FAN2_PIN, CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN, \
_E0_PINS _E1_PINS _E2_PINS _E3_PINS _E4_PINS BED_PINS \
_H0_PINS _H1_PINS _H2_PINS _H3_PINS _H4_PINS \
_X2_PINS _Y2_PINS _Z2_PINS \
X_MS1_PIN, X_MS2_PIN, Y_MS1_PIN, Y_MS2_PIN, Z_MS1_PIN, Z_MS2_PIN \
}
```
These pins are printer specific; so, without access to your Marlin build, I can't see if pin 4 corresponds to one of these. If this is the problem, the command should be returning an error. If there is no error, I would look closely at the hardware.
# Answer
> 1 votes
Might be because servo pins are not connected to 5V. use Jumper as shown
---
Tags: marlin, ramps-1.4
---
|
thread-8105
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8105
|
How fast can printer head move without damaging steppers?
|
2019-01-31T12:11:22.043
|
# Question
Title: How fast can printer head move without damaging steppers?
Is there any risk of damaging stepper motors if I set too big travel speed? What is maximum safe travel speed?
My printer is a German RepRap Neo.
I currently use 120 mm/s. Is it safe to increase this value to 200 mm/s? What would my printer do if I set very big travel speed?
# Answer
Short answer **no**
We use stepper drivers to limit the current, the travel speed is at capped by the amount of current supplied by the stepper drivers. This prevents the stepper motors from damaging themselves. You can set 200mm/s in the slicer, but you have no guarantee that that will be reached in real life.
One thing to keep in mind though is that setting your travel speed too high can induce artifacts such: shifted layers, ghosting, uneven extrusion, etc. So the best thing is to keep the speeds within the specified limits.
> 9 votes
# Answer
> What would my printer do if I set very big travel speed?
If a speed is set above the limits of the stepper, the stepper will stop rotating or stutters.
Basically there are 2 limits, the first is the limit of the board to generate the pulses to the stepper and second, how these pulses are processed by the stepper.
The speed of steppers depends on several aspects, including:
* microprocessor speed
* stepper driver
* micro-stepping setting
* voltage
* etc.
This reference gives you some more background as well as a table (which is a little optimistic for Marlin firmware) with maximum speeds. Depending on the application in your printer (stepper type, pulley size and microstepping value), it lists some maximum speeds for various boards:
> What is maximum safe travel speed?
In case of an Anet A8, 1,8°; 16-teeth-GT2-pulley; 1/16 microstepping, this leads to 160 mm/s on Marlin on an Atmega microprocessor (note this is optimistic).
> I currently use 120 mm/s. Is it safe to increase this value to 200 mm/s?
That depends. If you work out the mechanical and electronic details of your printer, you could look up the value you could ultimately use.
> Is there any risk of damaging stepper motors if I set too big travel speed?
No there is not, the stepper will stutter or stop. I've had this with too fast retractions on an extruder stepper motor.
> 7 votes
# Answer
Stepper motors contain permanent magnets, which are only really damaged by heat. The coils in the motor are only damaged by high currents that would happen at voltages above the maximum rating of the motor. While it is possible to configure a stepper driver to send enough current into a stepper motor to damage it (either due to heat or over current), desktop 3d printer drivers do not have enough current capacity to do such damage to those NEMA 17 stepper motors. The only thing bad that will happen is that you risk over heating the driver or the components around it on the PCB causing an early failure of the parts. (Google "Temperature Cycling and Fatigue in electronics").
That aside, the only problem that you are likely to encounter is stepper stalling.
> 2 votes
# Answer
A high speed is unlikely to be reached unless you also set a high acceleration, and acceleration is generally more likely to cause a problem (unless you reach the pulse rate limit of the drivers).
High acceleration will increase vibration, and critically requires higher torque from the motors. At some point, the torque will exceed the motor/drive current capability, and the motor will skip steps. As soon as this starts to happen, your print will become unusable.
Before reaching the point of missed steps, you're likely to see other quality issues, but unless you're in a very hot environment, unlikely to see damage to the motor. Depending on the quality and heatsinking of the stepper driver, you might see overheating here (you can check for overheating of the board though).
> 1 votes
---
Tags: safety, mechanics, speed
---
|
thread-8100
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8100
|
Reinforce screw holes
|
2019-01-30T21:48:38.103
|
# Question
Title: Reinforce screw holes
I made some 3D printed supports for tools, using screws to fix it to the wall, some of them broken because of the screw forces. Is there a way to reinforce only the screw holes where it will have more stress/compress? I am using PLA, Fusion 360 and Ultimaker Cura.
# Answer
You can test different print settings. Trying to visualize, but I believe you can increase the **perimeter lines**, since there is a hole, this will increase the resistance in that area. Or try to change the **orientation** with which the part will be printed
> 2 votes
# Answer
You can use a washer between the screw head and the plastic material to distribute the load
In my designs I also put in a depression to fit the washer so that it sits flush with the resultant surface.
> 1 votes
# Answer
In order to add localised extra walls, I will sometimes *cut* a torus shape around the part that I want to strengthen. This can result in n\*wall, infill, n\*wall, void, n\*wall.
See the images in this answer if the description is not clear.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: fusion360
---
|
thread-4661
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4661
|
How to print TPU material with 3D printer
|
2017-09-27T06:20:41.193
|
# Question
Title: How to print TPU material with 3D printer
Is there anything special for printing TPU material e.g extruder or temperature?
It's my first time printing TPU material, so if you have any photos, it would be great if you can share them.
# Answer
Elastomers do much better on direct-drive heads (pulled to the head by the motor) than on Bowden designs (where the material is pushed to the head by a motor). This is because the flexible TPU or TPE can bend in the guide tube, causing lag during advance/retract changes, and sometimes even bind up during delivery.
Look for equipment which explicitly states that it is compatible with, and designed for, flexible filaments.
> 5 votes
# Answer
Flexible materials cause lot of issues if there is any space between extruder gear and PTFE tube. Since it is flexible it refuses to follow the path and starts bending around the opening. There are parts in Thingiverse that you can print to remove that distance. Additionally make sure that your extruder fan is working. After those two modifications, I was able to reliably print flexible filaments.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: extruder, hotend, material, tpu
---
|
thread-8088
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8088
|
Which is the right filiament type to print breakable children's toy parts such as small gears
|
2019-01-29T16:57:26.097
|
# Question
Title: Which is the right filiament type to print breakable children's toy parts such as small gears
Probably the question sounds a little strange; however, I am looking for a filament which is breakable and not so steady and reliable as PLA. I want to print parts similar to the following gears for instance (They are from Lego, a children's toy).
They should break after some time or in any way become unusable after an accidental period (1 minute to several days) of use. Yes, you read right: I want to print parts that are frangible and probably will break! I plan to use Ultimaker 3 as 3D printer. So I'm looking for a suitable filament. Maybe I can merge two types of filament?
Could Ultimaker's TPU filament (https://ultimaker.com/en/products/materials/tpu-95a) be useful for my purpose? Or can anybody recommend me another filament that can be useful for my intended use? The primary purpose is that the printed part is not stable enough to serve its original purpose for longer than a foreseeable time (1 minute to several days). I appreciate your advice and ideas.
---
Note: I don't want to sell them; I want to use them for my **private** project. So please no legal issues. They are not helpful for my question. I don't ask for legal advice.
# Answer
## deliberate/planned obsolescence is the term you look for
If you design parts that break after some time, you plan their obsolescence. That you do by a deliberate choice of material and working conditions. Designing a part that will break after a certain time can be done by choosing the correct stresses that will make your chosen material break.
In a gear that is meant to break at certain stress, one can weaken the teeth or the sprues, so that normal operation stresses will very likely break the safety margin and destroy the gear.
## is it a material choice?
Any material is suitable to make a planned break, as long as *the design* is suitable. Performing a stress analysis of your part will tell you where to weaken it to enforce it will break - if the part was solid. As printed parts in FDM aren't solid, take the result with salt - it will tell *where* but not *when* it fails. Do the experiment for actual numbers.
## is it a print setting thing?
Besides deliberately under-engineering some part of the gear, a usually perfectly fine gear would lose a lot of strength by deliberately reducing how massive it is: the stability of a print is affected by the form and amount of the infill just as much as the number of shells. Some random setting examples:
* 1-shelled, 1-bottom/top-layer, 5% infill piece is very likely so fragile you might not get it off the build plate
* these parameters at 2-5-10% results in a somewhat durable piece.
* 2-5-20% is more than twice as strong as 2-5-10%.
To find the exact breaking point of a setup, one might need to toy with the parameters and experiment. It might be interesting to use no top- or bottom-layers and thus turn to create all the *spokes* of the gear in the shape of infill and outer shell. Also, some infills are better at withstanding forces than others - for example, Gyroid or Hex infill is rather stable on pressure while spaghetti is quite weak.
Other parameters also can change the infill stability: speeding up the print of the infill compared to the shell and using a thinner line considerably weakens the infill, thus reducing the needed load to break it. This is a somewhat easy parameter to tweak if you want to go for breaking the spokes (see below).
## planned obsolescence and how to under-engineer safely
Sometimes, planned destruction is good for safety: a safety valve is supposed to break under overpressure to release the pressure in a safe way.
But planned obsolescence can also be a safety risk: If a toy breaks under normal use, it is a safety hazard for the broken off parts can be swallowed by children. Another factor to look at is where broken off parts end up in the machinery - they might jam other pieces that are not meant to self-destruct and destroy them.
* Design the pieces to break in a safe way - the larger the chunks, the better you prevent them from going into places they should not.
* Design the teeth to deform or melt rather than shearing off
* Design the axles to sheer free by losing their keying
* Design the spokes of the gears to break, separating gear rim from axle & hub, either of which goes nowhere due to the other gears and the mounting
* Encase the self-destruct gears in some sort of gearbox to prevent the pieces from going flying
Industrial machinery design usually goes the melting way: Let's take a hand mixer. It contains a gearset that has one drive gear connected to a second gear, so that both mixers spin opposite. Under normal use, these spin pretty fast, creating heat from the friction. In a good design, these two gears are made from metal or a high heat tolerant polymer. But if one plans for having them break, these gears are made from a material that will heat under the friction in such a way, that after a set time (around 5 minutes), the teeth will be sufficiently weakened to deform and grind away, destroying them in the process.
## Preferred Material
I would actually deliberately under-design the gears for the expected loads and then go for a solid material printed in SLA or SLS from either a resin (which will break with pieces and bits going flying, so a gearbox is mandatory!) or a polyamide (nylon). These parts would match the stress analysis fully.
If FDM is the only option, the material choice depends on the failure mode you opted for:
* In case you opt for destruction from heat on the teeth or axle, a low melting material like PLA is perfectly fine, but make sure to engineer the chance of breaking teeth low. ABS can perform a little better but needs more heat (and thus more RPM) to self destruct.
* In case of designing for a breaking failure of spokes or keying, PLA is an excellent choice, as it is sufficiently brittle.
* PETG is a good compromise between ABS deformability and PLA's printing ease.
---
### Footnotes
Gear Design
<sup>When designing your gears, keep in mind that gears are rather complicated. I actually advise to take a look on the gross oversimplification of This Old Tony because it allows you to see where you can make teeth break very easily by design!</sup>
planned obsolescence and consumer rights
<sup>While planned obsolescence can be an important safety factor, planning obsolescence in consumer products for sale to break them after a calculated time is unethical and can be a consumer rights violation. Remember, that legally demanded warranty and a right to repair exist in a lot of countries.</sup>
LEGO is Copyrighted, Patented and Trademarked
<sup>Copying Lego designs would be a Trademark Violation, Patent infringement **and** a copyright violation by using their designs. They protect them.</sup>
> 2 votes
# Answer
I won't even ask why you need this and I assume you've done your homework about the issues. 3D printed gears are notorious for failing even when designed well, so the idea in general should be pretty doable.
TPU would be a terrible choice for a number of reasons. It's flexible which would make it a bad gear to begin with, but it is also very very tough. So it may last quite a long time, but perform very poorly. You specifically mention not using PLA, but I doubt you'll find a material that suites what you are looking for, more likely the print settings should be changed.
## Design Ideas
My personal recommendation would be to use a good material such as PETG, ABS or PLA and deliberately under-design it. This way when it is overloaded, the part will fail. Be sure to consider how you want the part to fail, this will decide which material you should. As for how to under-design it: This would take a bit of testing. 3D printers create an enormous range of material properties due to infill, layer height, etc. For a starting point, change the infill level down until you get the desired results.
Those parts look pretty thin to begin with, if the infill is not an option, try to reduce your wall thickness and thickness of top and bottom layers. One pass thick walls with no infill will be awfully weak and flexible. That flex should be enough to get you what you need. Eventually you can get it down to just a shell of a part with 0.2 or 0.1 mm thickness all around.
## Material Choice
PLA will shatter, possibly resulting in further failure if caught in other gears. The small parts may cause an issue though when it fails.
ABS will deform and probably not shatter, but it is difficult to print with. I would not recommend this.
PETG is on of my favorite materials - it is relatively easy to print with, very strong and bends instead of shattering on failure. This may be a good material to use.
> 2 votes
# Answer
This metod will be difficult with gears but doable. Print cold and slightly under extruded. This will cause part to fail in layers. You may need to print the part on side to ensure a non functioning gear. Use PLA or PETG. Breaking TPU is next to impossible.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: filament, ultimaker, filament-quality, filament-choice
---
|
thread-7800
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7800
|
My print failed and looks charred
|
2018-12-28T16:52:42.293
|
# Question
Title: My print failed and looks charred
I started a print on my Monoprice Select v2 and let it run. I'm printing with Dikale PLA at 200 °C extruder and 60 °C build plate temperatures. My initial layer speed is 30mm/s then 60mm/s after that. Although the Monoprice comes with an aluminum build plate, I put on a FYSETC magnetic bed plate which says it's suitable for PLA printing between 50 °C - 80 °C.
When I returned home, the print had been lifted off the build plate. I used a brim and even applied magigoo gluestick to help it stick but that didn't do the trick.
I also noticed it's charred at one corner. Any idea of what this might be a symptom of?
Here's what was printed
# Answer
> 1 votes
You have more than one problem going on. As for the print lifting up, that could be for a multitude of reasons. Clearly better bed adhesion is required. It also appears the printer stopped printing at one layer. Now for the charred part, I think it could've been caused by the nozzle staying in one area for too long (possibly when the printer stopped printing.). This causes the plastic touching the nozzle to overheat and burn up. The charred section can usually be pulled off pretty easily. However, since it definitely appears you have more than one issue here you should pursue some research (perhaps other questions on the site) on the matter.
Hope this helps!
# Answer
> 0 votes
1) You have a layer shift. I guess the shift is caused by an *overheating* stepper driver, because it started relatively late, but could be also a mechanical issue.
2) Print bed adhesion is a minor problem. Just test your printer with a simpler shape (large ground area).
3) After carbonization, your nozzle might be clogged. Make sure there is an even extrusion.
# Answer
> 0 votes
I have a guess and a suggestion. It looks like your bottom most layer is ver thick. Even though most people suggest thick first layer, if it is thicker than 0.25 for 0.4 nozzle it cannot reliably squeeze the plaatic so that it would stick to the bed. I prefer lowering z height in the software (Slic3r allows this) to squish the first layer.
Another suggestion I would make is to set bed temperature to 55. 60c is glass tranaition temperature of PLA. At that temperature, PLA softens and if you have even the slightest over extrusion, the pressure from nozzle can topple tall objects.
And for charring you may want to print a little colder. Not all thermistors are equal and printing too hot causes lots of quality issues. I personally print around 170-180c. If you have layers separating, you are printing too cold. You might want to print some calibration pieces to find parameters for your printer.
---
Tags: print-quality, troubleshooting, monoprice-maker-select
---
|
thread-8121
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8121
|
How to level bed after applying glue stick for bed adhesion
|
2019-02-01T07:03:26.667
|
# Question
Title: How to level bed after applying glue stick for bed adhesion
I'm pretty new to printing PETG, and my Creality Ender 3 now has a glass print bed. I've done some research, and it looks like a pretty bad idea to try and print PETG on a pure glass surface for fear of the print pulling chunks of glass along with it.
So, I've looked into various bed adhesion options. I've already used blue tape, but I'll need to purchase some wide stuff, and in the meantime, I want to investigate using PVA-based glue stick. However, one question does come to mind: how can I set the bed-nozzle distance after applying the glue stick layer?
Do I even need to? Will the extruded plastic just crush it into the build plate without a problem, saving me the trouble of lowering the build plate? My normal method of sliding a paper sheet under the nozzle at Z = 0 mm would take the glue stick layer along with it if I tried that.
# Answer
> 5 votes
How much glue do you put on it? I use PVA based spray, barely visible, very evenly spread and no problem whatsoever of sticking paper to the glue layer.
Just level the bed as you normally would and apply a sparsely applied coat of glue, preferably from a spray can. Note that glue stick dissolves in water, so you can distribute the glue with a moist cloth preventing globs or thick layers of glue.
Having printed literally kilometers of PETG on various build platforms (various glass sheets with or without PVA based glue, Aluminium and PEI), chipping of glass is not something I have seen happening (this part is added after comments on adhesion and glass chipping in comments). Perhaps, in case of chipping, if the glass might be of very low quality, then chipping may occur. Whether your glass is of decent quality can be tested, just print on one side, and if it chips you always have the other side. My Ultimaker 3E sheet of glass has a small chip taken out of the surface, but that was caused by not carefully removing the print, tip is to not pry with the corner of a too thick painters spatula, the corner can dig into the glass if force is used. This was not caused by the adhesion of the print but a user error, now, years later and many more kilometers of PETG, no more extra chips are out of the sheet.
Printing on PEI with PETG is another story, PETG just fuses to PEI and is very difficult to remove, a PVA based glue helps, but from experience, still prints were very hard to remove.
Invest in a can of build plate adhesion spray, it lasts long, never gives you problems with adhesion and probably is even cheaper than glue sticks (per mass unit).
---
Tags: heated-bed, bed-leveling, adhesion, petg, glass-bed
---
|
thread-8115
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8115
|
How to design gears
|
2019-01-31T21:07:10.133
|
# Question
Title: How to design gears
I want to create a micromouse project for fun that use 2 20 mm x 8.5 mm (0.8 mm shaft) motors. I have my own PCB as base. I want its built-in gears will be attached to two 3D-printed wheels with gears at the back of the wheels at each side. I'm having hard time to start designing the gears since I couldn't find any tutorial.
(photo for reference and not mine)
My Question:
1. How to design the gears at the back of the wheel? (I use Sketchup)
2. Is 3d-printing such small objects possible?
# Answer
> 4 votes
Designing gears is very difficult for a variety of reasons. Let me list what you should take into account:
1. The shape of the teeth are very peculiar, trapezoid shape will not work as the meshing will not be constant. Exact shape is controlled by the pressure angle
2. In lower number of teeth, teeth shape must be modified to avoid any locks, these are called cutoffs
3. Reducing the amount of material to print requires careful design, most people simply place circles but they cause weak points.
4. Herringbone and double herringbone gears improve meshing but are even more difficult to design.
For the reasons stated above, creating gears by hand is next to impossible without special tools. Luckily for those who are searching for it, there are systems that generate gears for 3D printing. This customizer has many options and is very open about the licensing, which is another issue with many scripts. For example, it is explicitly forbidden to print parts imported from the McMaster-Carr Catalogue.
If you use OpenSCAD, this library can create racks to go with the gears.
The parameters of the customizer are explained in the page. The script also contains explanations of every module and function.
Disclaimer: Both scripts are mine, yet I do not earn anything when people use them. I created the library when I was unable to find the gears I needed, published with a relaxed license to help others.
# Answer
> 3 votes
There are also several gear generators out there. Correct gear geometry is important for long life and noise reasons.
One thing to keep in mind is that iff you are able to print accurate gears it's easy to print herringbone gears which are not easily machinable with other techniques.
That should cover the how (use a generator and import the geometry). The "is it possible" depends on your 3d printing skills, if possible you need to be able to do 0.1 mm tolerances, elephant footing will make the gear unusable.
That said I was able to print some planetary gears 'in place' (ie. assembled on the print bed) using a raft to avoid fusion of the lower layers:
Spinning the gear printed on raft: https://i.stack.imgur.com/MdfuZ.jpg Spinning the gear without a raft directly on the print bed: https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQ72S.jpg
The first one is still on my work desk as a fidget spinner because it spins so nicely ;-)
---
Tags: 3d-models, 3d-design
---
|
thread-8113
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8113
|
Arduino Mega 2560 + RAMPS voltage on GPIO pin
|
2019-01-31T19:01:43.243
|
# Question
Title: Arduino Mega 2560 + RAMPS voltage on GPIO pin
I am using an Arduino Mega 2560 and RAMSP 1.4 shield with Marlin firmware to control my machine (not exactly a 3D printer). Marlin has G-code:
* `M42 P20 S255` ==\> Turn **on** pin 20 of the microprocessor
* `M42 P20 S0` ==\> Turn **off** pin 20 of the microprocessor
I am using this command to turn ON a MOSFET switch connected to pin 20.
When I have not put the RAMPS shield on top of AtMega, this works. Pin goes high only when I send code to turn it ON.
But when I place the shield on top of the Mega 2560 (No 12 V power is given to RAMPS, only 5 V from USB), when I first connect USB to it, I find around 2 V on Pin 20 even without sending the ON command. when sending `M42 P20 S0` this goes away (0 V) and get 5 V for `M42 P20 S255`. Without shield there's no voltage when connecting USB to Mega 2560; with shield there's 2 V on the pin and this causes the MOSFET switch to turn on.
Where does this voltage comes from?
First I thought this must be some noise, so added a 10K pull down resistor (since that is the common value I have seen in many circuits), but it didn't work. But placing a 100 Ohm works. Is this safe?
# Answer
> 3 votes
Connecting a 100 Ohm resistor is definitely not safe. This load is far too high for an AtMega2560 output pin. 100 Ohms at 5 V (when the pin is high) is 50 mA, whereas the recommended maximum for an AtMega2560 pin is 20 mA (and it would be better to stay well below this maximum). You should use a higher value pull-down resistor (at least 250 Ohms, more would be better) or find out where the stray voltage is coming from (it could be an internal pull up on the AtMega, since pin 20 is also the SDA pin which Marlin might enable).
---
Tags: marlin, ramps
---
|
thread-8126
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8126
|
Loose brass heater block
|
2019-02-01T16:50:27.417
|
# Question
Title: Loose brass heater block
I recently changes the nozzle on my Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D printer (first time). The brass block that the nozzle screws into is free to rotate around an is *wobbly*.
Loose block video
I can't see any obvious nut/screw that's come loose though. It could well be that it's not important, but it was definitely tightly attached before it twisted when I removed the nozzle.
---
I've taken the assembly apart:
---
Silver bit removed:
# Answer
The silver looking cylindrical nut (with the flat faces) between the brass block and the black metal plate is the heat break of the assembly. The brass block should be tightly fit to this heat break. You could turn the brass block to get a close fit again. The heat break itself can move in the upper part, black plate, the cold end by the set screw on the side. Some hotend assembly types allow that, this screw is then used to fixate the orientation of the brass block. This type of hotend is not very common, it is a MK10.
Without the brass block it looks like this:
Maybe this clears it up how the block is attached in between the heat break and the nozzle; it is positioned where you see the threads. The screw to position the brass heater block and the heat break is clearly visible.
Don't try to wobble the brass block any further as you will wear out the threads, there appears to be a lot of play already.
> 2 votes
---
Tags: hotend, monoprice-maker-ultimate
---
|
thread-8124
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8124
|
Can snap-fit connector be designed for 3D Printing?
|
2019-02-01T09:45:57.927
|
# Question
Title: Can snap-fit connector be designed for 3D Printing?
I am new to 3D Printing. We currently have to design in process that I want to finish. The design consists of two parts (top and bottom), the top and bottom that need to snap fit into each other. The arrangement should be similar to the one used in many electronics, for example, the cordless phones in the picture below.
My question is, can such clips be done with 3D printing? Will they last (be used 5 to 20 times) and does the material used for 3D printing make a difference? Is there a material that is particularly good for such snap-fit connectors?
Note that my design will only be a prototype and eventually we would be creating a mold for our product.
# Answer
> 2 votes
## yes
You can totally print snap-fit connectors for 3D printing, but you need to keep some things in mind. I assume that since you have looked at these connectors, you have a good idea about the matter, but I nevertheless suggest Angus (MakersMuse) discussion locking devices at the beginning of a tutorial Video on designing buckles.
Your tabs thickness will need to be at least one line width wide at the most narrow point to be printable at all.
## Print-Orientation
Another thing besides thickness is orientation. For the strongest tabs, you might want to print the tabs like a C for maximum part strength. Just modeling the part with the tabs, it should print in this orientation then:
This way the bending is not applying stress against layer boundaries but 90° to them, giving even force on each layer. This means that you will need to print parts in awkward orientations just for the tabs usually. You will need lots of support.
You can certainly print in a less awkward position at the expense of strength of the tab, acknowledging that "this is a prototype, we can show you that it closes perfectly like this, though due to FDM limitations we might break the tabs opening it again. So we'll be careful."
## prototype-variation of model
### Snaples tabs
It might be however easier to print the tabs flat and without the hooks, allowing to do a fitting test, but not a snap-connection. Your benefit is, that you won't have to watch for print orientation, but it won't be locking. Make sure to work with **workflow** and put the modifications for easy printing/not-locking at the end. Alterations to the general design should come all *before* this point. Then turn off these steps to create the model that is sent to machining for the mold.
### Modular intermediate design
If you need to have working, strong tabs AND a good print, it can pay off to print separate parts that combine into a single piece with a little glue. Maybe the C-clamp is actually a thin bar that is put into the back plate and glued into place or secured with a little friction weld.
---
Tags: 3d-design, clip
---
|
thread-8133
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8133
|
CURA doesn't want print bridges
|
2019-02-02T15:21:44.650
|
# Question
Title: CURA doesn't want print bridges
I made a model for my 3D clock. Model has few vertical holes so I made one layer thick bridge for every hole. In Fusion 360 everything looks fine, but CURA (version 3.6.0) doesn't want to print those Bridges. Why?
The Full Wall is 1.68mm thick(in Fusion), `infill` is 20%, `wall line count` is 1, `layer height` is 0.28mm, the support-bridges are designed to be this thick too.
I'm not sure will be material stable above holes without Bridges.
# Answer
> 5 votes
## Nomenclature help
* A **Layer** is everything that is printed between the print head moving upwards.
+ `Layer height` is how **tall** each line is. It is in Quality.
* A **Wall** is made up from lines put down next to each other.
+ `line width` is how **thick** a 1-perimeter-strong wall is in the XY-plane. It should never be smaller than the Nozzle Diameter. It is in Quality.
* **Nozzle Diameter** is what is the physical diameter of your nozzle. It is located in the printer configuration.
* A **Bridge** is printing horizontal layers that connect to walls at the sides but otherwise not connected to the printbed or print.
## Ultimaker Cura does ignore too thin walls
Your walls are 0.28 mm thick and your nozzle is most likely 0.4 mm thick. That can't be printed at all, in fact, you are *way* too thin to be printed: a printer should never print any object that is thinner than its nozzle as that is a perfect way to generate clogs.
Atop that, slicers ignore *also* what is thinner or exactly as thin as the line width. If the `line width` is 0.4 mm, and the wall is 0.4 mm, it gets ignored. If the wall is 0.45 mm, it is not. This can be remedied by setting the option `print thin walls`, but you still need to have one line nozzle-diameter as minimum line width - actually it is common to go about 10% larger for better extrusion.
## Solution
Strengthen the walls to one `line width` (usually 0.4 mm) in your CAD-design and activate `print thin walls` under `Shell`.
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, fusion360
---
|
thread-156
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/156
|
Are there biocompatible materials available to the general public?
|
2016-01-13T08:28:30.357
|
# Question
Title: Are there biocompatible materials available to the general public?
I am currently working on parts for a custom prosthesis.
My main concern at the moment is to find biocompatible materials that can be 3D printed from a UP or a Reprap. The piece would need to be in contact with the skin for extended periods of time, probably around 17 hours a day on average.
The main concerns I have are:
* Skin reactions caused by prolonged contact
* Skin reactions and bruising caused by friction
* Degradation of the materials due to prolonged exposure to skin secretions and sweat
* Risks of toxicity in the compounds generated by the aforementioned material degradation
**Which materials can you recommend?**
**Any extensive data (from testing) would be greatly appreciated.**
# Answer
There are printers designed for medical use, and the manufacturers supply them with varying levels of certification and testing, however I've not seen a filament manufacturer certify their material as bio-compatible separate from the printer. The printing process changes the material slightly in the best case (and significantly with poor temperature control or badly set parameters), so even if bio-compatible filament were found, the resulting product might not achieve the same level of bio-compatibility.
If your intent is to use hobbyist level machine for medical purposes, you might simply want to use an interface, such as a sock or a molded/cast polymer that you know to be bio-compatible between the printed part and the skin.
> 4 votes
# Answer
If you want to know something about what you are questioning, it is interesting to you to read http://e-nable.org/resources/prosthetics-students-consultation/
That's a link with complementary information how to print 3D as a volunteer.
I know that is not enough information about products, but I believe Nylon is the best recommend because it is what generally printers are using, though.
This website supports information with Dr. Chang by the e-mail [email protected]
but there insnt information about the components used in the prosthetics, but I know that Nylon is the best suited to it nowadays.
If you prefer there is a site with makers loging information about PETG: https://www.matterhackers.com/news/how-to-succeed-when-printing-with-petg-filament
> -3 votes
---
Tags: health, filament-choice, medical
---
|
thread-8142
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8142
|
Anet A8 & BLTouch not homing Z
|
2019-02-03T01:26:59.970
|
# Question
Title: Anet A8 & BLTouch not homing Z
I have an Anet A8 with Marlin Firmware 1.1.9 and I installed a BLTouch sensor. When I start the system the BLTouch does its self test (extend and retract the probe twice) and then lights up red. When I "Auto Home", it homes X, then Y and then extends and retracts the probe and moves up a few millimeters. Then with the probe retracted it moves down until the nozzle crashes into the table. The same happens when I select "Level bed".
Safe Homing is active.
What am I doing wrong?
My current Configuration.h can be found here.
# Answer
You must invert the logic of the endstop Z\_min.
# define Z\_MIN\_ENDSTOP\_INVERTING true
To
# define Z\_MIN\_ENDSTOP\_INVERTING False
> 1 votes
---
Tags: z-axis, anet-a8, bltouch, homing
---
|
thread-7746
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7746
|
Weird surface thing
|
2018-12-21T15:52:56.323
|
# Question
Title: Weird surface thing
I have a 3D printer at home, the Colido Compact, and for some reason when I 3D print big flat surfaces a really weird thing happens. I'm using some PLA from Colido too I think
It almost seems as if the bottom layer does perfectly but when it starts printing out the top surface this happens, because the one on the bottom left is in two parts because the upper part is the bottom one and that one is perfectly flat, then I took them apart and the weird thing just stayed with the top part... and also on the weird warps there are bits of brown goo or something? I don't know it looks as if the filament was burned... It only appears on pretty big surfaces because smaller ones don't seem to have the problem.
Anyone knows what is happening?
# Answer
> 1 votes
If you hear some "clicking" during the print then you are experiencing filament slipping inside the extruder gear. I had a similar issue on my Geeetech i3 and I fixed it by replacing the extruder tooth gear, the one that pushes the filament inside the hot-end. Also, I advice to double check your filament is not getting stuck and your Spool spins freely.
# Answer
> 1 votes
**It could be over extrusion.**
Since I do not have physical access to your prints I cannot make sure. Please check if the thickness of the part is actually higher than what it supposed to be. Also, check the printing process during the print. Is the object taller than the nozzle at any time?
I generally have the same problem at the first layer, as sometimes I squeeze the first layer too much, causing extreme over extrusion. But unlike your case, upper layers kind of fixes the issue. In your case, the issue is amplified as you get higher. Walls turn out to be ok as there is room for flament to grow around, it is the flat surfaces that will got hit bad.
I strongly suggest you to print calibration pieces to ensure correct setting. If you have caliper you could try this or if you don't this one might help.
---
Tags: filament, 3d-models, extrusion, slic3r, surface
---
|
thread-8149
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8149
|
How to specify rotation origin in openscad
|
2019-02-03T15:18:45.167
|
# Question
Title: How to specify rotation origin in openscad
OpenSCAD has `rotate` function which rotates the body around its origin axis.
Is there a way to specify an arbitrary axis?
For example, this rotates a cylinder around its center:
```
rotate(a=[90,0,0]) {
cylinder(h=10,r1=10,r2=10);
}
```
How to make it rotate around its edge?
# Answer
> 2 votes
`rotate()` always rotates around the origin of the object following it. What you can do is to move your cylinder *away* from the origin, like this:
```
rotate(a=[90,0,0]) {
translate([0,10,0]) cylinder(h=10,r1=10,r2=10);
}
```
# Answer
> 2 votes
You can use the following module in your code to achieve what you wish:
```
module myrotate(a, orig) {
translate(orig)
rotate(a)
translate(-orig)
children();
}
myrotate([0,0,90], [0, 10, 0]) {
cube([10, 10, 25]);
}
myrotate([0,0,-90], [0, 10, 0]) {
cube([10, 10, 25]);
}
color([1, 0, 0])
cube([10, 10, 25]);
```
---
Tags: openscad
---
|
thread-8153
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8153
|
How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?
|
2019-02-03T19:06:07.593
|
# Question
Title: How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?
In setting up a probe for automatic bed leveling, the limits of the probing area must be entered in the firmware of a 3D printer.
When using a sensor, how do you define the bed limits for the sensor in Marlin firmware?
E.g. the Marlin (1.1.x) configuration.h contains the following inactive statements:
```
// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).
//#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE
//#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
//#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE
//#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
```
How do you set the values for the constants of your custom setup? Is this generic or specific?
Probe positioning is defined in the Marlin configuration as:
```
* +-- BACK ---+
* | |
* L | (+) P | R
* E | | I
* F | (-) N (+) | G
* T | | H
* | (-) | T
* | |
* O-- FRONT --+
* (0,0)
```
The probe could be placed with a positive or negative X and Y value. Considering this position, how to setup the sensor bed limits?
# Answer
There are a few questions on this topic, so a more generic solution would be informative and will prevent multiple questions of others when their sensor has a slightly different location. This answer intends to cover any position with respect to the nozzle. It also does not matter what kind of sensor it is, it can be 3DTouch, BLTouch, inductive, capacitive, etc., as long as you are able to determine the offset to the nozzle (center to center).
For now, it is assumed that the nozzle can only reach the complete area of the bed, no extra space. So unless the sensor runs of the bed, the nozzle limits are used, otherwise the sensor limits the nozzle with respect to the sensor limits. This is the safest assumption and will prevent the carriage running into the end mounts. But if there is more room for travel, an additional offset may be added to the limits.
***First***, determine the offset of the sensor (e.g. by measurement or taken from the information of the printable sensor bracket found many share sites on the internet; Thingiverse is a good source for such brackets).
---
## HINT for Marlin 2.x
***Note the version (branch) of Marlin!** The answer is written at the time of the 1.1.x branch and as such is perfectly valid for the latest 1.1.x (1.1.9) version. For the 2.0.x branch of Marlin, different constant names are in use, and a different strategy is used (more simple for setting up). The constant names are not found in the `Configuration.h`, the answer (and the theory) is still helpful. Constant probe offset values are now found in Configuration\_adv.h:*
```
MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT
MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT
MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT
MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK
```
### HINT for Marlin \>= 2.0.6
Since version`2.0.6` `MIN_PROBE_EDGE_*` has been renamed again.
Now it is:
```
PROBING_MARGIN_LEFT
PROBING_MARGIN_RIGHT
PROBING_MARGIN_FRONT
PROBING_MARGIN_BACK
```
Note that in Marlin 1.1.x the boundaries are set in absolute positions while in Marlin 2.0.x it is described in offset values from the bed edge.
---
## Sensor Offset
The position of the sensor is set using the following constants:
```
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER [XXX] // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER [YYY] // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
```
where `[XXX]` and `[YYY]` are offset values that specify the center of the sensor with respect to the nozzle. If both are positive values, the sensor is located in the back-right, if both negative, the position is front-left (as seen from the front of the machine using the definition in the Marlin configuration file). The other positions that are possible are the back-left and the front-right (one positive and one negative value).
---
## HINT for Marlin 2.x
Note that in Marlin 2.x, these constants are replace by an array definition:
```
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { XXX, YYY, ZZZ }
```
Where `ZZZ` is the Z offset. If you use the old constants, the sanity check upon compiling will throw an assertion that these constants are not in use anymore and should be removed.
---
***Second***, let's set the sensor area limits!
## Sensor Area Limits
In the following images, the nozzle, the sensor and the offsets are defined by:
There are four possible positions of the sensor, this results in the following schematics for the sensor area limits (transparent red area):
# 1. Sensor at the back-right:
This implies that the sensor can reach the back and the right borders, so the limits are set by:
```
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER)
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE)
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER)
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE)
```
Note that if a minimum probe offset is defined by `#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE [value]` in the configuration (to account for sensor width/dimension), the bed limits are changed resulting in (where t = `MIN_PROBE_EDGE`):
Limits are then set by:
```
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
```
In the following sensor position placements, this offset for `MIN_PROBE_EDGE` will be accounted for.
# 2. Sensor at the back-left:
This implies that the sensor can reach the back and the left borders (for zero `MIN_PROBE_EDGE`), so the limits are set by:
```
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE + X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
```
# 3. Sensor at the front-left:
This implies that the sensor can reach the front and the left borders (for zero `MIN_PROBE_EDGE`), so the limits are set by:
```
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE + X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE + Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
```
# 4. Sensor at the front-right:
This implies that the sensor can reach the front and the right borders (for zero `MIN_PROBE_EDGE`), so the limits are set by:
```
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE + Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
```
This should have tackled the basics for defining the sensor area limits. It becomes a little more complicated when there is extra travel space. A very easy use of extra travel space can be found in the configuration file; e.g:
```
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS [XX]
#define Y_MIN_POS [YY]
```
where `[XX]` and `[YY]` are offset values from endstop to origin (orange arrows represent `X_MIN_POS` and `Y_MIN_POS`):
Results in offset constants for a back-right probe:
```
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + X_MIN_POS + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER + Y_MIN_POS + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
```
For all other options, a similar addition of the homing offsets can applied.
A similar addition is possible if the print head is able to travel further on the X or Y axis at the other ends of the axes.
---
## Thoughts for solution for Marlin 2.0.x
As I mentioned earlier, Marlin 2.0.x uses bed edge offsets rather than absolute positions. In analogy of the previous graphs we can draw a bed limits diagram (*the example below assumes a back-right mounted probe!*):
Note that the offsets from the edge need to be defined, to properly do this we need access to the definition of the nozzle offset:
```
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { XXX, YYY, ZZZ }
```
As this is the part that defines the array values, you first need to make an array (note that this is a simple solution that many people should be able to understand with limited programming skills, more elegant solutions use the XYZ struct to access the X, Y or Z properties):
Note that Marlin 2.0.x automatically adjusts your probe area based on the defined offset and the `MIN_PROBE_EDGE` defined for all 4 sides of the bed.
see:
```
#if PROBE_SELECTED && !IS_KINEMATIC
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#endif
```
---
> 29 votes
---
Tags: marlin, bed-leveling, z-probe, knowledgebase
---
|
thread-8166
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8166
|
Print layer shifting on Alunar M508 Prusa i3 clone
|
2019-02-05T03:19:35.577
|
# Question
Title: Print layer shifting on Alunar M508 Prusa i3 clone
\[Edit: My specific question is firmware error or standard layer shifting. using 2 different versions of Cura were getting quite different results from the same stl file.\]
Per the image below with Cura 15.4 the centered print both shifted to the bottom of the print bed for the first few passes and then did not build the proper internal structure of the bracket. the top loops were then skewed to the top of the bed. The 2<sup>nd</sup> print in the corner was using Cura 3.1 and the first few passes like usual skewed off towards the bottom but it seemed to start printing normally after that. I am trying to determine if it is a hardware calibration issue or bad firmware on the printer. Any suggestions on what's going on would be appreciated. For some reason the image flipped 180° when posting.
Center part completed its print and should be about an inch or so tall. It was not even able to build the internal structure like the 2<sup>nd</sup> one had started to do. the 2<sup>nd</sup> one I stopped after about 10 min since it clearly showed different behavior. from the layer shifting links the most likely cause would be over current stepping.
# Answer
> 3 votes
This effect is called layer shifting. Now that you know what it is called you could look at some other solutions fixing this issue; e.g. here, here or here. The answers of this question describe best what is causing this. Usually (most of all the cases) it means that your belts are not tight enough.
An edit of the question shows that the effect happens when a different version of Ultimaker Cura is being used. In such cases you need to check the speeds and acceleration settings. Too high values may lead to skipping steps causing layer shifting. Be sure it is not a mechanical issue, also note that the nozzle does not get caught up by the uneven tape on the bed. In that effect, you may want to look at this unaswered question.
---
Tags: troubleshooting, y-axis, print-failure
---
|
thread-5719
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5719
|
Support material first layer adhesion issues
|
2018-03-28T12:13:05.263
|
# Question
Title: Support material first layer adhesion issues
I am quite new to 3D printing, and having difficulty printing first layer of an object with support. The object has a few curved surfaces that touch the print bed, so not a big starting foot print.
I am printing on a genuine Prusa i3 mk2s, using PLA, 210 °C (clean from what I can tell) nozzle, 60 °C (clean, good condition) heat bed. My model is an STL from Thingiverse, and I sliced it with Prusa Control. Settings: 0.3 mm layers, 30 % infill, Support from build plate, brim on. I have run the printer calibration, z-axis calibration, etc. Only thing that might be a bit out is my z-axis might be a *fraction* too low. I have no issues when printing objects without support, and usually don't have issues printing objects with support (although typically these have a larger contact area of the object to the print bed as well)
After it prints the brim (which adheres well), it tries to print the support layers for the "actual" layers that will get printed first. These layers do not touch the outer brim. They go down with a little bit of "squeeze out" when the printer does a 180-degree turn. (this can be seen on the right hand end of first picture).
Then, it attempts to print the whole-of-base support structure (refer to pic 3 and 4 for details). Where these support layers touch the outer brim, they adhere well. When they touch the initial support layer sections, it tears them up, leaving a big mess.
What appears to me to be happening, is the small sections that get printed first (circled in red) are either not adhering well enough, or somehow getting "ruffled up", or are printed too close to the subsequent, broader strokes of the rest of the support layer, such that when the rest of the support layer is printed, it is tearing up the initial small sections. Having 2 densities of support layer per layer seems to be causing issues.
Failed print, still on the bed. At the right, there is a section of "fine" support material that sort of survived.
Close up of the failed first layer. The broad strokes seem to adhere well except for when they meet where the fine layer was - after that it's just a big mess.
Slicing in Prusa control (part 1): shows the different support structures and very minimal contact of actual object to the bed (orange)
Close up of other problem area in PC slicing. No actual contact of object to bed here. Also, as a side note, why the funny diagonal line cutting through the rest of the support structure here?
# Answer
**Quick, low-tech solution:**
There might be several issues in your question, but in relation to bed adhesion, I'll share one of the most useful tips I wish someone had told me when I started out: *Spread some glue-stick over the area to be printed*.
I used ordinary school/craft glue stick (which I stole from my daughter's school pencil case) - the kind for gluing paper. I use a purple one, so it's easy to see and easy to clean up. I apply a little glue then smear it around with a wet finger to make it a bit uniform.
I have a heated bed (FlashForge Creator Pro) and have used this little trick with a range of filaments. In almost every case, it helps adhesion enormously. Parts and supports stick like mad! But they still come off easily enough the usual way. It is a weak glue, so it won't lock the part to the bed. Once the part is off, the purple glue is visible when wet, so it is dead easy to clean up the part and the bed in a minute or two.
This trick is so easy that it is worth trying first for any adhesion issues, before digging deeper.
> 1 votes
# Answer
It is hard to determine the exact source of the problem as there are few possibilities (I am assuming that you have a single nozzle and only one filament in use):
1. One of the hardest issues for me to get on my printer was fact that my auto-level sensor was mounted about 0.5mm too high - so please check that as this will give you a bit higher Z than expected.
2. Printing speed matters - for some prints I was slowing my printer to 20% of nominal speed to get adhesion
3. a hair-spray layer or a masking tape on the bed could help with getting the grip
4. also you could play with nozzle temperature de/increasing by 5 degrees and see how it is going
> 0 votes
# Answer
Increase the extrusion width for the first layer. This will ensure that more plastic is extruded and will help with adhesion tremendously. Check our this link for more information: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#print-not-sticking-to-the-bed.
The prusa i3 mk2s provides an option to "live adjust" the Z height during a print. You can try raising/lowering your nozzle with this feature to see which way it will adhere better, and then reset the Z to that value once you are satisfied with the adhesion and quality.
> 0 votes
# Answer
I've seen this on my Prusa clone. It looks to me like the nozzle is a bit too close to the bed so not enough plastic is being extruded. I got a perfect PLA print at 215 °C and 0.2 mm for the first layer and 210 °C with 0.15 mm for the rest. When I tried 215 °C/0.3 mm first layer and 210 °C/0.2 mm on a large print I got poor adhesion and a warped corner. I used the same Z height offset. I didn't get a picture but it looks like the opposite problem to yours; not enough squish down on the first layer. I print with hairspray directly on aluminum and usually get great results. I'm going to retry with a more negative offset and will post pictures of the results.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3, adhesion, support-structures, support-material
---
|
thread-8177
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8177
|
What exactly does calibrating a 3D printer do?
|
2019-02-06T13:40:47.473
|
# Question
Title: What exactly does calibrating a 3D printer do?
I’m building a 3D printer and need to understand what calibration and bed leveling is, and I was surprised to see there isn’t a clear explanation on the internet anywhere. Does bed leveling compensate for an uneven bed? So then, what does calibrating do? Is it the same thing?
# Answer
> 4 votes
First, welcome to the 3D Printing Stack Exchange!
## On bed leveling
Bed leveling, or more accurately bed tramming, adjusts the bed so that it is even in relation to the print head. Typically it is done by sliding a paper between the nozzle and the bed when Z = 0, or the print head is at its lowest. The amount of friction should be similar to the amount of friction of a sheet of paper between two magazines (recommended by Tom Salander on YouTube I believe). One sheet of paper is about 0.1 mm, which is a common gap and allows for good adhesion of the deposited plastic, and typically the gap is measured at the four corners and the center of the bed.
## But wait, there's more!
Mesh bed leveling can account for a physically uneven print bed (like a bowing glass sheet) and can be done manually like above or one can mount a sensor so that everything is automatic. The print bed is broken down into a grid (typically 3x3 or 5x5) and the Z height adjusts so that the gap is 0.1 mm at each point in the grid. A mesh is then made and stored in the printer. As the printer prints it makes the necessary variations in height so that the print is flat. Please note that the bed should be leveled as best as possible before setting up the mesh as it will vastly improve the resulting mesh. Mesh leveling is primarily software. The actual level of the bed remains unchanged, thus needing to level it prior to setting up the mesh.
## Other calibrations
Bed leveling (including mesh bed leveling) is one aspect of calibration. Other important factors to tune in are temperatures of the nozzle and the bed. For example, PLA has a temperature range of 180-230 °C but each printer is different and may need to print at a higher or lower temperature for best results. Or the printer reports a temperature of 200 °C but the thermistor is off and is actually printing at 190 °C. It's up to the user then to compensate if they want/need to print at an actual 200 °C.
Other settings to tune are print speeds, acceleration and jerk, retraction, and extrusion. Faster print speeds can result in poorer quality prints, namely ghosting and under extrusion. Acceleration/jerk works in the same vein since it directly affects speed. Retraction helps with stringing. If the retraction settings are too low then there will be stringing on the model, if it's too high then there can be under extrusion and heat creep. Adjusting the extrusion factor will tell the printer to push more plastic out or push less. The higher the factor the more plastic is pushed. IMO best practice is to leave the factor at 1 in the slicer and calibrate the stepper motor itself (as can be seen here)
## Calibration models
There are several calibration models on thingiverse that can show common print issues. Some of the popular ones are:
* The calibration cube which one can ensure that the motors are moving accurately to print out a 20 mm cube. This also shows ghosting along any of the three axes. This cube may also point out if any of the axes aren't 90 degrees perpendicular to each other as the cube should be, well, a cube and not an amorphous shape (thanks to Joel Coehoorn for pointing this out).
* 3DBenchy which shows a myriad of potential print quality issues including ghosting, poor overhangs/bridging, and stringing.
* A Temperature Tower uses post scripting in the slicer to change the temperatures so one can determine the different print qualities across a spectrum of temperature. There are a lot of different models online if this one does not work for you.
* An all-in-one test can do a lot of tests in one model and they are all labeled within the model. (The linked one is the mini version, there are several similar tests online.)
* This list is by no means inclusive, there are several other models that can test other problems. These are just what's usually printed (especially the cube and Benchy).
Happy printing!
---
Tags: calibration, bed-leveling
---
|
thread-8184
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8184
|
Move print bed to front at the end of a print rather than the back
|
2019-02-06T18:45:53.690
|
# Question
Title: Move print bed to front at the end of a print rather than the back
I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus, currently using Ultimaker Cura 3.6.0 with the default settings for a Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus. Right now when a print finishes, the bed retreats towards the back of the machine. I'd rather present the bed forward for easier part removal.
Here is my ending G-Code:
```
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning
```
It looks like I need to change that `G28` line third from the bottom, but I'm not sure what to change it to. I've not yet done any g-code manipulation of my own. I don't know what units it's using, and it looks like it still has relative positioning, so even then I don't know it's a good idea to just set it for the max size of the bed.
So how can I change this code to move the bed as I want?
# Answer
> 8 votes
Note that this reference states that:
> Because the behavior of `G28` is unspecified, it is recommended **not** to automatically include `G28` in your **ending GCode**. On a Cartesian this will result in damaging the printed object. If you need to move the carriage at the completion of a print, use `G0` or `G1`.
So you need to use a `G0` or `G1` move.
When using Ultimaker Cura (like many other slicers), there is built in functionality known as keywords with a complete list found here.
The keyword `machine_depth` is the one that is of use to you, embed this in your end G-code in between curly brackets and it will expand to the bed size of your machine (replacing `G28 X0 Y0`):
`G1 X0 Y{machine_depth}`
For me this compiles to (e.g. for my coreXY printer):
`G1 X0 Y300`
To set the speed, just add the following command prior to the one above:
`G1 F2500`
Adding this line before the actual move ensures that the speed is constant, if `F2500` would have been included in the move command (like `G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} F2500`), this defines the end speed, it would start moving at the last speed value prior to the move.
This results in adding the following lines in your endscript:
```
G1 F2500
G1 X0 Y{machine_depth}
```
# Answer
> 2 votes
You're correct that the G28 line should be changed. What I would do is the following:
```
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 ;move X to min endstop, so the head is out of the way
G90 ;absolute positioning
G1 Y200 ;Move bed forward
M84 ;steppers off
```
This way your X axis still gets homed after the Z bumps up and before Y moves to present the print.
G28 is the command to home the print head. Your current settings homes the X and Y axes. G1 is a linear movement. One caveat to this change in G-Code is that there needs to be a home command at the start of your prints since you're not homing afterwards anymore. (I believe most slicers default to a G28 at the start AND end of prints so it's not a major concern, but one to be wary of now just in case.)
---
Tags: ultimaker-cura, g-code
---
|
thread-8182
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8182
|
Print ASA without enclosure
|
2019-02-06T18:22:27.210
|
# Question
Title: Print ASA without enclosure
Is it possible or recommended to print with ASA filament with printer that has no enclosure? I Know that ASA is better than ABS, but is it that better that enclosure is not needed?
# Answer
According to MatterHackers, Simplify3D, and 3D Insider an enclosure is not necessary but highly recommended as ASA, like ABS, is susceptible to drafts and can warp. A heated bed is necessary (somewhere between 90-110 °C), and little-to-no cooling fan used. The enclosure helps ensure adhesion and a consistent temperature. ASA also has fumes and an enclosure can help contain unwanted smells.
MattHackers has a video (Step 4 in the link) on making an enclosure with some kind of plastic sheeting or trash bag (I didn't watch it). There are videos on YouTube on using cheap Ikea side tables and acrylic sheets to make an enclosure if you want a more permanent solution.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: filament, enclosure, asa
---
|
thread-8188
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8188
|
What kind of filaments can I use?
|
2019-02-06T21:04:15.697
|
# Question
Title: What kind of filaments can I use?
This is probably the most basic of questions. When I was shopping for a printer I saw models that would list a slew of certain plastics that the printer can print while other printers (different suppliers) would only list PLA/ABS. At the same time, the instruction manual that came with my printer only listed PLA and ABS.
What is actually used to determine the possible material (other than diameter)? I assume that if the nozzle can reach the required temperature to melt the plastic **and** the bed can reach the necessary temperature to maintain bed adhesion, then my printer can print that plastic. Am I correct?
For example, my nozzle can reach 250 °C, but the bed can barely reach 80 °C so I can print with ABS but not with ASA (since it needs *at least* 90 °C on the bed. However, if I switch out the heating element for something beefier then that opens up anything that needs a hotter bed. Right?
Let's assume that I have the means to change nozzles and extruder type to fit the need of the filament. The goal of this question is to limit to one or two limiting factors of the printer without major modification.
# Answer
There are other factors besides temperature. Certain "soft" filaments won't go well through all extruders, and some other filaments with wood/metal particle additives don't go well through every extruder type and can cause clogging. Even people who do tend to print a lot of these materials will often use a specific nozzle just for those filaments.
That said, you still *might* be able to print even with something like ASA that seems unsupported. You can do this by taking additional measures for bed adhesion, or upgrading or swapping your nozzle or hot end.
If you can print PLA and ABS, you can probably also print so-called PLA+ and PETG, at a minimum.
> 1 votes
---
Tags: filament-choice
---
|
thread-8129
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8129
|
How can I avoid jamming in the feeder?
|
2019-02-02T00:10:43.937
|
# Question
Title: How can I avoid jamming in the feeder?
Recently, at work we bought a Guider II printer from FlashForge. When we try to print models using a high resolution or models with a too high printing time, the feeder gets clogged. And the feeder is too hot. We have concluded that the feeder is getting clogged because the high temperature softens the PLA.
We check the feeder fan and is working fine. How can I avoid the jamming? Pausing the 3D printer and wait a few minutes is not working for us. I don't know if it is a common problem for this 3D printer model.
**Edit:**
The hotend is an all metal hot end. I can't find more information about the hot end.
In the manual of the guider II flashforge recommend a temperature of 210°C for the head and 30°C for the bed. I have tried different temperatures. The most common temperature I've used is 190°C for the head and 55°C for the bed (I obtain the best results with this temperature).
This is the Hotend used by this 3d printer.
# Answer
> 4 votes
The symptoms you describe hint to heat creep. Heat creep is the gradual increase in temperature of the cold end assembly (cooling fins and heat break). This gradual temperature increase leads to too high filament temperatures and as such premature filament softening. In combination with (large) retraction settings, this can lead to clogging of the nozzle. All-metal hotend assemblies are more prone experiencing these problems; lined hotends have a PTFE lining that also insulates the filament so that it does not soften prematurely like in all-metal hotends can happen. Heat creep is best remedied by properly cooling the hotend (good quality fan, no obstructions or large ducts) and reducing the retraction length (and possibly lowering the print temperature, but you already tried that). You could also contact the manufacturer for advice.
# Answer
> 0 votes
If the temperature is too high it can charr the plastic, causing jams. There are many reasons for that. If the temperature you have selected is not too high (\<200C), then it might be the thermistor not correctly reading the temperature. If you can measure the hot end temperature, that will give definitive answer to that question.
Additionally, some filament contains additives that can get burned even at lower temperatures. I find it every difficult to print with woodfill if it takes very long to print. Some wood chips gets burned and causes jamming.
# Answer
> 0 votes
Don't know about your specific printer model, but I encountered late print fails with clogged systems due to plastic molten above the heat break due to excessive use of retracts. Retracting hot material transports heat up into the normally cooled down heat break part. If you set up a very long retract or retract very often, the amount of heat can surpass what the fan is able to push off and soften the filament above the heat break.
Try adjusting the retraction settings in your slicer and see if it helps on longer prints.
# Answer
> 0 votes
As Oscar pointed out, this seems to be heat-creep.
## What is Heat Creep
Hear Creep happens if the thermal energy deposited in the hotend works up through the heat break and out of the dedicated melt zone, resulting in filament clogging up in the coolend.
## Where does Heat Creep come from
Heat Creep is usually a sign of having chosen the settings for the print incorrectly.
The biggest culprit is by having a too high printing temperature. I personally have not yet encountered any PLA that demands to be printed at above 200 °C.
In an all-metal hotend, the flow of filament down the path is a serious contributor or keeping heat-creep in check. So as a result, very low extrusion speeds have to be avoided to allow to keep the melting happening only in the meltzone. As the speed of extruded filament is related to the diameter of the extrusion, it is usually better to stay away from very small nozzle diameters.
The anatomy of the heatbreak is also a factor. Take a look at your heatbreak and then at for example the e3D v6 heatbreak below. As you see, it is necked down between the coolend section (the long part) and the part that screws into the heater block (the short part). This reduces the capability of heat to transfer up through the heatbreak, as $I\propto A =(R\_a^2-R\_i^2)\times\pi$. If $R\_a$, the outer radius, shrinks by necking down the heatbreak, then the whole flow of thermal energy is reduced, counteracting heat-creep. But that has to be designed for.
Another factor that can result in heat creep is insufficient cooling of the cool end. Make sure that the fan that is mounted on the cooling fins spins always and gets 100% of its supply voltage power. Then make sure that it can draw in the maximum amount of air and push it out an unobstructed path.
---
Tags: extruder, troubleshooting, cooling
---
|
thread-8191
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8191
|
Ender 3 needs Power Supply AND USB to work
|
2019-02-07T15:16:44.943
|
# Question
Title: Ender 3 needs Power Supply AND USB to work
I installed a BLTouch on my Ender 3 following this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUlqrSq6LeY.
What I noticed too late was that when installing the BLTouch, I swapped the brown and red wires followed by connecting it to the mainboard.
Then I realized that the printer wouldn't turn on. After reading some of the comments, I swapped back the wire and I could see the BLTouch do its self-test.
However, it seems that I need to plug into the USB before the LCD + motors can work.
So is my mainboard fried? Or how should I fix it?
# Answer
> 0 votes
It seems like I blew the regulator based on the comment in the Reddit post: https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/ao5m5b/ender\_3\_can\_only\_be\_powered\_on\_by\_psu\_and\_usb/
---
Tags: troubleshooting, creality-ender-3, bltouch
---
|
thread-8194
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8194
|
Question about retraction distance and stringing/print quality with PETG
|
2019-02-07T20:08:58.047
|
# Question
Title: Question about retraction distance and stringing/print quality with PETG
I've tried printing the Basic Stringing Test on my CR-10S using PETG (250 °C nozzle, 80 °C bed) with different retraction distances leaving all the rest unchanged.
In the image below you can see 0 mm, 5 mm and 10 mm retractions (in order left-to-right).
The result stunned me because I would have imagined that raising retraction distance would have diminished the stringing.
Why is that?
# Answer
> 6 votes
You cannot endlessly increase the retraction distance, doing so leads to different problems as you encountered. As a rule of thumb, the retraction distance should not exceed the length of your nozzle. Depending on the type of extruder, many printers use a value between 2 and 7 mm (e.g. the Ultimaker Cura retraction length is 6.5 mm at 25 mm/s, this is for a Bowden style extruder).
In fighting stringing (in which PETG is very subjected to happening) retraction length is only one of the parameters that you need to adjust to optimize the printing process. Other important parameters (besides retraction length) for stringing are:
* retraction speed
* travel speed
* minimum travel distance
* flow modifier
*-\> From experience with printing kilometers of 2.85 mm PETG: if PETG is over-extruded by little, it causes the excess of material to form "curtains" like in the left image.*
* combing
*-\> added by comments: PETG does not like to be "combed" over; moving back over the already printed material without retracting will "pull" it back up (due to adhesion to the molten material in the orifice) as well as pulling more material out of the nozzle; this results in junk all over the place which can manifest as "stringing" even though it's different from what "stringing" usually is.*
Furthermore, the type of extruder (direct or Bowden) is also important and other parameters that may reduce the stringing are:
* coasting (stop extruding before the end of the print line is reached using the residual pressure in the nozzle to extrude the last filament)
*-\> Please note that coasting is a last resort as the amount of material needed for the whole print is not what is being extruded, i.e. stopping earlier means that the overall amount of material is less than what should be put in...*
* pre-loading/priming filament after a move
Usually it suffices to tune the first parameters. As you see in your results, the retraction of 5 mm is close to the result you would expect, increasing it, may lead to clogs and in your case leads to a sort of stringing. This latter result is probably due to the fact that the filament does not reach the print in time (you definitely see under-extruded cylinder columns), while leftover pressure after printing the column layer oozes some of the filament creating strings.
Just play with the retraction length in steps of 0.25 mm (around the 5 mm) and you may try to change the speed with 5 mm/s increments if necessary. Also experiment with the flow modifier.
---
Tags: creality-cr-10, retraction, petg
---
|
thread-7914
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7914
|
What is this material?
|
2019-01-08T07:37:56.420
|
# Question
Title: What is this material?
In the context of a personal project I would like to reproduce the appearance of a commercial product of which I send you a cropped image.
I would also like to point out that I do not have the object in question, but it would seem that it is made from a polymer.
The product is a case with an embedded electronical card, so heat dissipation is important.
I'm interested by what kind of plastic is really used here. I plan to have the part manufactured by a company, so I think the method used will be SLS
I therefore rely on your expertise in the field of 3D printing to try to identify the material used.
Thanks
# Answer
> 1 votes
Surface finish does not really map to the substrate material, Visually, what you have shown could be glass, ceramic, plastic, epoxy or metal.
The surface finish is a combination of the shaping process, any post processing, and any surface finishing. Most significantly, there are a wide variety of custom paints which are designed to mimic specific surface finishes. This means you could carve an object out of clay, then spray it to give the appearance of being sand-blasted steel (to give a specific example).
The underlying material is mostly irrelevant to the appearance. It will be driven by mechanical/thermal considerations (is this a mock-up, or does it need to have functional wall-thickness), and production volume/cost considerations (is it a one off, or are you making hundreds/millions)?
# Answer
> 0 votes
Is there anything else about this object, but its picture? Softening temperature, biodegradability, is it stiff of flexible, hard or soft, anything could help identifying its material.
Also, post-processing (sanding down or chemicals like acetone bath) greatly enhances the range of filaments that can be used.
Just from the picture, my first guess would be: it looks very much like what ceramic powder added filaments can yield with when you sand them down afterwards. Take a look at pictures of prints with LayBrick, CERAMO, etc.
On second thought, **the answer is: Polyamide/Nylon**. It must be either a polyamide case or polyamide coating of some other material. For home projects, MJF polyamide prints can easily be ordered online. Ordering polyamide coating of plastic parts can be trickier depending on your location, although definitely doable.
Going with Nylon at home prints may require a non-basic 3D printer and some expertise.
# Answer
> 0 votes
If you want to 3D print this, you could try post processing with some acrylic or fiber glass filler, and then use some stone texture spray paint like this one.
Edit: SLS printing will never be heat efficient, if that product (in your example image) is an electronic case, it was either machined or molded, and the finish is some sort of paint with a ruff or stone like finish.
However, you might be able to pull it of with air flow redesign, and as long as the temperature does not exceed the glass transition temperature of the thermoplastic or resin used, you should not face any deformations on the case.
---
Tags: material
---
|
thread-5649
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5649
|
MK8 extruder showing 500+ °C on temperature sensor?
|
2018-03-18T21:41:31.840
|
# Question
Title: MK8 extruder showing 500+ °C on temperature sensor?
I just finish building a Graber i3 printer from mixed parts (a MDF clone of Prusa i3 MK2). For the hotend, I've bought the Greetech MK8 extruder. However, the temperature sensor is driving me up the wall.
I've already checked the wires and connections, but the darn thing keeps showing a steady 500 degrees Celsius. In Marlin, it shows it right up (I'm using the 1st option for a 100k thermistor), in Repetier Firmware (using the same one), it shows 0.00°C, until I tell the printer to heat up, when it shoots to 500°C just like before with Marlin. The documentation for this extruder only lists it as a "100K NTC Thermistor", so I tried to select one of the NTC options on the list for both Marlin and Repetier and the temp sensor reads steady 3.600°C!!!
Measuring it with the multimeter, it shows around 60k, it's 31°C outside.
Is it broken or am I selecting the wrong thermistor type?
Documentation for MK8
# Answer
A brand new thermistor shows about 95-105k ohm (depends on the multimeter quality), so it looks like that one is out of the range. To be sure that it is a thermistor, you could connect a 100k potentiometer, play with it and see readings on the lcd. If the readings are OK, then mainboard is good so replace the thermistor.
A 100k thermistor curve
> 3 votes
# Answer
If your printer is a cheap one that uses a ribbon cable or other combined cables, verify your thermal sensor's polarity. I know, I know - it's a resistor (in most cases) and that means there's no such thing as polarity. Bear with me - I just helped a friend diagnose his printer (Geeetech, for the record) for showing 500C on one sensor and 'def' on the other, after replacing the mainboard with a different/more capable model. Turns out, they SHARE PINS, which suddenly makes polarity important. Swap the pins in the connector, and it might just work. First time I've run into this. We swapped only the Ext0 sensor and left the bed disconnected - Ext0 read normal, so we swapped both, and everything's been perfect since.
> 0 votes
---
Tags: prusa-i3, extruder, thermistor
---
|
thread-8214
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8214
|
M12 vs M18 V5 inductive probe
|
2019-02-10T14:41:57.790
|
# Question
Title: M12 vs M18 V5 inductive probe
I currently have my printrbot with a LJ12A3-4-Z/BX-5V Inductive Proximity Sensor ( 61mm M12 DC 5V NPN NO 300mA)
That detects my aluminium bed at around 1.2 mm distance. While it works, if the printer does the smallest blob the probe crashes into it.
I am considering replacing the probe by the M18 version LJ18A3-8-Z/BX-5V ( M18 8mm DC 5V NPN NO 300mA).
I haven't been able to find real specs for these probes (apart from what the sellers put in eBay or AliExpress - which I do not trust).
**Will I get a larger detection distance with the M18 version of the 5 V probe?** (I wonder if the M18 version is exactly the same M12 version with a larger casing).
Or should I move to the 6-36 V versions of the probes - I do not want to do that to not modify my wiring.
# Answer
> 1 votes
The larger the diameter and the higher the voltage the larger the detection distance. You do not need to do much wire modification if you use an optocoupler, see this anwer.
---
Tags: z-probe, inductive-sensor
---
|
thread-8218
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8218
|
What calibration options should I look into given these defects
|
2019-02-10T20:28:50.273
|
# Question
Title: What calibration options should I look into given these defects
I printed a temperature calibration cuboid for Hatchbox 1.75 mm PLA, in 1 °C increments from 180 °C to 190 °C.
I have two questions related to this image:
* I'm not seeing any difference in quality across the temperature range. Am I just way off base and need to be substantially higher?
* How do I get rid of the small layer shifts you can see across the board?
Printed on a RepRapGuru Prusa MK2 clone.
# Answer
Your print does **not** suffer from layer shifts as you call them. This uneven layer deposition is typically caused by the (positioning) accuracy of your printer. All-in-all, this print does not look so bad. You would get better quality prints on a different style of a printer; most high-end printers have a lowering platform instead of a forth and back moving platform.
Although 180 °C is at the low side of printing PLA (usually it starts at about 185 °C), the print does look okay. However, looks can deceive, it does not say anything about structural integrity (layer bonding).
Note, to calibrate the temperature using a temperature tower, you need a different calibration test print, preferably one that tests overhang. This latter is usually far more important as there is normally not much to see at the walls, you need a slanting part in the print or an overhang to determine the optimal temperature.
> 3 votes
---
Tags: calibration
---
|
thread-8219
|
https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8219
|
Is there any better way to make this transparent dome?
|
2019-02-10T20:47:00.337
|
# Question
Title: Is there any better way to make this transparent dome?
As part of a larger project, i'm trying to print a translucent green dome. I set it up as follows:
* In Blender, create an icosphere of the maximum allowed complexity. Cut it in half and throw away one of the hemispheres.
* Duplicate the hemisphere. Move the second one down slightly and use Subtract, to hollow it out. Clean up the vertex garbage left behind.
* Export the model. Import it in the slicer, scale to the proper size, and export as gcode.
* Print the model with translucent green filament at 100% solid infill.
I ended up with a beautifully rounded dome that doesn't feel at all like a polyhedron, so that worked out fine. The only problem is, it's solid green. The filament seems to lose its translucency past a certain thickness, and the fact that my "solid" print is actually made up of thousands of tiny strings pressed up against each other probably doesn't help.
I tried reprinting it in Spiral Vase mode, and while the print turned out to be transparent, it was also extremely thin and fragile, and it failed anyway because of lack of support once the dome's angle got bad enough.
I've been trying to think of how to print this properly, but nothing I think of will work:
* Scaling can make the walls thinner, but only by reducing the size of the model. Its basic dimensions need to remain unchanged.
* Doing the same trick again that I used to create the dome, subtracting a copy of itself moved down slightly, would lead to non-uniform thickness in the model. (Which I already have some of. But when the thickness is directly correlated to the degree of transparency, this is problematic.)
Does anyone know of any tricks I can use to get it to come out properly? For reference, I'm using Blender as my 3D software, IdeaMaker as my slicer, and printing on a Raise3D N2 Plus printer.
# Answer
> The filament seems to lose its translucency past a certain thickness
That's exactly the point. Think of translucency as a percentage of light being allowed through, per amount of material. 2x the material means 1/2 the light. You need either less material (which becomes brittle as you saw), or a more translucent material. I think it has little to do with the model itself.
Also - check out OnShape. One of the features it has is a "shell" function, that does what you're describing - takes a single 3D feature and creates a shell out of it of consistent thickness.
> 3 votes
# Answer
For the modeling, I suggest to change to a proper CAD software, design a half sidecut and create the model by rotating it around Z. That way you'd create an evenly thick part.
As for loosing transparency, that has several reasons:
* light loss into printed materials is mainly due to air being captured in the model. To get the air out as much as possible and generate an almost entirely transparent print, I have printed some lens-tests with extra heat and deliberately overextruding to fill all the cavities and voids.
* light loss in materials is also dependant on the material factor and thickness.
If you go away from FDM and look into resin-based SLA/DLP systems, you can get almost fully transparent prints with very low colored resins.
> 1 votes
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Tags: print-quality, software
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thread-8216
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https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8216
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Why did my power supply fuse blew out on my Anet A8?
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2019-02-10T15:26:53.770
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# Question
Title: Why did my power supply fuse blew out on my Anet A8?
So yesterday I got my power supply in the mail and I thought, let's check it out!
I put all the wires in correctly (as shown in this YouTube video, Anet A8 power supply unit fuse blown, I just searched really quickly, this person has the same problem as me) and "BANG", it blew.
Luckily the only thing broken on it is the fuse, for which I can get a new one, but my main question is .. why? why did it blow out? Did I wire it up wrong? The 12 V output goes to a RAMPS 1.4 board which is working correctly.
It worked the first time I plugged it in; the little green light went on. The second time a nice "big bang". When I tested it the first time, I didn't add the 12 V wires to the RAMPS board yet. When I did, the fuse of the PSU blew out.
The board is a RepRap RAMPS 1.4, which works fine when connected via USB to laptop.
Upon closer inspection I found a burned out resistor in the circuit of the power supply, maybe this caused the bang?
### BIG update!
I opened it up and flipped the board, and noticed that there was a big ol' blob of tin connected to one of the pins I connected my wires to. I am very sure that this blob shouldn't connect to that pin at all, hence shorting my board.
Is this the cause?
Here is a link to the webpage I bought it from: Anet® 12 V 20 A 240 W Power Supply Dual-input Centralized Power Monitoring For 3D Printer
Here is how I wired it up at the PSU side:
At the RAMPS side:
This shows the internals of the PSU, it clearly shows burn marks:
# Answer
> 4 votes
You need to closely look at how to connect to the output connectors. In this case it appears that you have wired it correctly according to the stamped in markings above the connectors. You have chosen not to connect the earth, this is strongly advised.
Did you check if the power switch matches the voltage of your country? If you are in Europe the switch should be set to 230 V, not 115 V (which is used in America).
E.g. for the following power supply you see such a switch on the side:
If a PSU is connected without load and works, and short circuits when externals are connected there are a few options:
* there is a short in the connected printer board,
* the load that the board takes is too large for the PSU,
* the PSU cannot deliver the load,
* the PSU was faulty to begin with.
# Answer
> 2 votes
### Unless you know what you're doing, do not remove the covers from a PSU. The components can store a lethal charge long after power is removed, even if the fuse is blown.
My guess is something loose (now vapourised) in the PSU. Electronics have a tendancy of failing either quite soon after manufacture, or lasting reasonably well. This is described with the Bathtub Curve.
Looking at the failure, there was a significant short circuit somewhere - quite likely within the PSU itself. This doesn't mean you can be sure that the RAMPS board survived, but it has a reasonable chance of not being harmed.
There is no significant chance of the PSU failing like that simply due to an excessive load in its output - unless it was overloaded for a significant period of time. Generally these PSUs will have some degree of overload protection even if they are not explicitly designed to survive an overload.
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Tags: ramps-1.4, anet-a8, power-supply
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